Replace Fuel Filter
#2
#3
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St1gg (04-03-2018)
#4
fuel filter
Haynes Chapter 4, Part A, section 7
"There are two level sensors fitted to the fuel tank - ... The pump is integral with the left-hand sensor, and the filter integral with the right- hand sensor."
There is a procedure to replace - all fuel must be drained...and there is no drain plug for this...access is via a panel under the rear seat. Fuel lines are disconnected form the tank, then the sensor can be removed and replacement calls for a new seal.
"There are two level sensors fitted to the fuel tank - ... The pump is integral with the left-hand sensor, and the filter integral with the right- hand sensor."
There is a procedure to replace - all fuel must be drained...and there is no drain plug for this...access is via a panel under the rear seat. Fuel lines are disconnected form the tank, then the sensor can be removed and replacement calls for a new seal.
#5
How-to http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/foru...=4062#post4062 , there is also a NAM thread titled “fuel system cleaning” with more tips on the procedure from other DIYers.
#6
How-to http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/foru...=4062#post4062 , there is also a NAM thread titled “fuel system cleaning” with more tips on the procedure from other DIYers.
THANKS, great post Too bad that they are no longer allowing new subscriptions.
Looks like a smelly/ messy job
It seems MINI has designed a vehicle that is unusually hard to maintain and repair........when it could easily been done differently and made upkeep much more user friendly.
#7
Join Date: Feb 2007
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#11
Filter part number is:
16146757196
Comes with the seals and o-rings.
Before you un-clip the fuel tube, unplug the fuel pump relay and start the car. Let it run until it dies. This will relieve the pressure in the tube so it won't spray all over when you disconnect it.
Get something to suction the fuel out of the cannister after removing the cap. Use a paper towel to wipe all of the black goo from the cannister. (this stuff gets everywhere!) After replacing the filter, use some sort of lube on the cannister to make the cap easier to install.
Hope this helps,
Jim
16146757196
Comes with the seals and o-rings.
Before you un-clip the fuel tube, unplug the fuel pump relay and start the car. Let it run until it dies. This will relieve the pressure in the tube so it won't spray all over when you disconnect it.
Get something to suction the fuel out of the cannister after removing the cap. Use a paper towel to wipe all of the black goo from the cannister. (this stuff gets everywhere!) After replacing the filter, use some sort of lube on the cannister to make the cap easier to install.
Hope this helps,
Jim
#13
When you go to start after replacing the filter, turn the key to position 2 and let the pump run for a couple of seconds before cranking. Might take an extra couple of seconds before firing up.
Jim
#14
#15
At least the Air Filter is easily done
#16
I got my fuel filter from Bavarian Autosport. Changed it around 50,000.
Took about 30 mins to replace. Its located under the passenger side access panel, under the rear seat on an '03 MCS, probably the same on an MC.
You actually have to disassemble the filter/sender housing, approx 1/4 turn counter clockwise on the top half. (After its pulled up from the tank, beware the sender float and wiring)
jimz68 is right on about all the nasty fuel/crud deposits left in the housing, best to clean/flush them out so none get inside the new filter and sent up to the injectors. An old turkey baster works great for sucking up fresh fuel from the tank and flushing out the sender, just don't put it back in the kitchen
Took about 30 mins to replace. Its located under the passenger side access panel, under the rear seat on an '03 MCS, probably the same on an MC.
You actually have to disassemble the filter/sender housing, approx 1/4 turn counter clockwise on the top half. (After its pulled up from the tank, beware the sender float and wiring)
jimz68 is right on about all the nasty fuel/crud deposits left in the housing, best to clean/flush them out so none get inside the new filter and sent up to the injectors. An old turkey baster works great for sucking up fresh fuel from the tank and flushing out the sender, just don't put it back in the kitchen
#17
I just replaced my fuel filter. It went smoothly, but some gas got under the plastic I laid out and basically started to eat away at that heat/sound insulation under the seat, very sticky. I wiped up the gas and put fresh plastic over it, then put the seat back in. That crap should dry out and stick to the plastic instead of the seat.
#20
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DIY Fuel Filter Change MCS R53.
Here's the thread.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=145081
#21
Took all of 15-20 minutes...there wasn't much pressure to speak of because my Mini sat over night but the big mess was when I pulled out the filter from the canister There's a pint worth of fuel in there and it caused a big splash when it came apart so beware...good thing I had towels ready...
Can figure out why there was two canister seals in the kit though...
Can figure out why there was two canister seals in the kit though...
#22
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Yes - I posted this last month - included step by step w/photos. PM if you have not done it yet, glad to help.
Here's the thread.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=145081
Here's the thread.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=145081
#25