Hello All,


Getting ready to install my rear sway, hopefully this evening. Just want to go over what I have read to be the "instructions" on doing so. Hopefully can get some feedback from those who have installed their own.


-Rear wheels off
-Endlinks disconnected from struts
-Rear struts out
-Remove stock bar clamps
-4 bolts to lower subframe (with a jack supporting it)
-remove stock bar


-installation reverse of all that


-One thing that came to mind is removal of the rear struts. I haven't looked yet but I believe the rear has upper and lower control arms, so I don't have to worry about a CV popping out with the struts removed, correct?


Thanks

 

I did the RSB on my r53, granted those don't have AWD, but I didn't need the rear struts out. but it took some finagling to get the stock out, the reinstall was much easier. and if the CV were to pop out, I think you would have other issues =D

 

So took a stab at this last night and all went smoothly. I re-read all the threads I could find and took it step by step. Start to finish was an hour and a half! Probably took me 30 mins to jack the car up. I was finally comfortable jacking on the inner jack points that are about midway under the car with a 2x4 to spread the weight, although probably not needed. It lifted both front and rear wheels but I only put jack stands under the rear.
Once the rear was in the air -
-Wheels off
-Endlinks disconnected
-RSB mounts and bushing removed - I wanted to see if I could remove bar without lowering the subframe or removing struts, that is a no
-Removed driver side subframe bolts and loosened passenger side - tried to remove again but passenger strut was in the way (trying to pull out driver side)
-Removed top 2 strut bolts and that allowed me to swing it back far enough to get the bar free but then I was hung up on one of the subframe bolts (furthest back passenger side)
- Removed the subframe bolt and the bar came out nice and easy from drivers side
-Reinstall is the opposite of everything - I put the bar back in on the drivers side as well


Having All4 made no difference in the install. There are upper and lower control arms that prevent the CV from popping out with the strut removed. Also, the rear diff is on a separate mount than the subframe so lowering that did not affect anything either. I did this all with hand tools without any trouble on a '12 with 85k on it. Only "special" tool you need is about 12-16" of socket extension for the subframe bolts.


- In summary to clean things up a bit
-Wheels off
-Endlinks and bar mounts off
-Remove subframe bolts on side you plan to pull bar out off
-Loosen the more forward bolt on other side and remove the rearward bolt
-Remove top 2 bolts on strut opposite side you are pulling bar out of
-Install all in reverse and don't forget to lube the new bushing before installing!

 

That's all well and good, did the swap a couple years ago m'self, but there's no mention of what you think of the difference in handling. We're all waiting for your explosive 'holy ****!!'.

(Those are my stars, not the mods.)

 

The car definitely feels more planted and stays composed on uneven roads, also feels like it settles down faster after a sudden impact. I installed the 22mm WMW bar on the stiffest setting. Want to say the car as a whole feels like its been dampened just a bit but in a good way. Its currently very wet and raining here in NJ so I couldn't really put it to the test yet. I've already almost taken this car off the road on a 180* on ramp haha. Definitely less bump steer as well. These continental RSC tires suck but they came on the car and have lots of tread left so hard for me to ditch them.

 

I really want to order this part now all the reviews of how much better it handles and my past experience with sway bars and the difference they make is making me want to pull the trigger on one. I hate the fact that you have to remove so much to install it though lol ive been spoiled so much easier in other vehicles. Ny roads pretty much suck now so i also know i wont be able to have much fun with it yet.

Thanks for the review and the walkthrough.

 

Its really not bad, sounds like a lot but all the bolts are easily accessible and can all be loosened with hand tools. I was using a 3/8 drive socket which is only about 7 inches long and had plenty of leverage. I think its definitely worth the effort and not worth bringing to a shop. My father-in-law runs a local repair facility and he quoted me at $250 for the install in NJ.

 

Actually we do it about the same with both rear shocks out, but just use a jack to support the diff. to allow jacking it back into place.