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R56 Where's the immobilizer?

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  #26  
Old 01-05-2017, 08:26 AM
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It was supposed to be plug-and-play

Originally Posted by MiniToBe
I bet you that the BMW tech guy gave you a modded set that is by passing the security of the immo.

When I was working on my Countryman, I had to put another set (ECU, CAS, keyfob) to get the car started. The ABS module did turn off because it was reading a different VIN. the Airbag light was also on because the dash was removed. Same with the transmission module. after I put the cloned set, I still had to reprogram the ABS to accept the original VIN. My issue was bigger since I had to reprogram the steering wheel module and a bunch of others.

is that mileage correct to your car?
Obviously no clue what they're doing, but I've sent the key and immobilizer three times now, along with the module. It's supposed to be plug and play and none of the engine and warning light crap. :(

Yes, that's correct mileage.
 
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Old 01-05-2017, 10:30 AM
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And to clarify ...

... the repaired/replaced modules have all allowed the car to start right up (yay!!). It's the non-stop engine lights and inability to communicate with the code reader that are the problem.

As keyless start, now. 😉
 
  #28  
Old 01-05-2017, 09:15 PM
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My wife's 2013 R57 Justa auto will start without the keyfob in the dock, as long as I start the car with it in first. So, insert keyfob in dock, foot on brake pedal, start car. Turn off car. Remove keyfob. Put foot on brake pedal again, push start button, engine will start again. My 2011 R56S manual will not do this, however.

Later verified that my 2011 MCS manual will indeed start in the same manner.
 

Last edited by renchjeep; 01-09-2017 at 07:15 PM.
  #29  
Old 01-09-2017, 11:34 AM
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There's a part number on here somewhere, right?

MiniToBe, Andy is great. Thank you!

I need to send the not-right ECU back to ModEx, which means I need to buy another used one for my car to send to Andy. There's a part number on here somewhere, I'm sure ... but which one is it?

Sorry to ask something so obvious, but hubs is out of town for a couple of days. Thanks!!

 
  #30  
Old 01-09-2017, 11:39 AM
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No problem....the part number is the one that was smeared! You see where is says DM...the numbers after that are the part number. There is another way to find out. If you have an obd reader, it might be able to read the part numbers of the module. do you have the replacment DME as well ? Take a pic for it. Also, worst case scenario, you can tell Andy to let you know what the part number is when you send it to him and either have him buy you one or you buy one and send it to him.
 

Last edited by MiniToBe; 01-09-2017 at 11:51 AM.
  #31  
Old 01-09-2017, 11:53 AM
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Let me get back to you on that.

Naturally, it's placed in the car and that's the side bolted in and facing the fuse box.

I've got to run kiddos around for a couple of hours, so I'll dig it out later this evening. At least I know where to look now! ;D
 
  #32  
Old 01-09-2017, 12:31 PM
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I did some analysis and I think I found the right part number for you... this seems to be your part number 7586136

2008 Engine Computer Mini Cooper 8/08,1.6,F-AT,HT BASE,7586136 15F230 $75 Jim's Import Auto Salvage USA-FL(Sebring) Request_Quote 1-800-447-4707
 
  #33  
Old 01-09-2017, 04:20 PM
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Covered on the new one. ;) a



If you can read the part number under that label, there's got to be some award for that miracle!
 
  #34  
Old 01-09-2017, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jjafekjones


If you can read the part number under that label, there's got to be some award for that miracle!

Yep, it matches the one i mentioned earlier ;-)
 
  #35  
Old 01-09-2017, 04:26 PM
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I may have a sliver of hope again ...

Calling them in the morning; thank you!! I'm trying not to be too hopeful after four months without my car, but I'm not sure I can help it at this point.
 
  #36  
Old 01-10-2017, 07:09 AM
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Ordered!

Yes!! Thank you!!
 
  #37  
Old 01-23-2017, 07:16 AM
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What is the news? all squared out
 
  #38  
Old 01-23-2017, 07:24 AM
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Maybe today!!

Took a while to get my original module back from ModEx, but Andy got it on Friday morning and had done his thing/ was mailing the goods back on Saturday!

Hoping the parts arrive today or tomorrow.

So what took Module Experts over four months to be unable to figure out appears to be this:

"The original DME (engine computer) has different (corrupt) data (not original) and cannot be cloned anymore. We will match the replacement DME to your car (CAS / key). Matching proces will include:

1. ISN (immobilizer code transfer).
2. VIN transfer.
3. Coding the DME.
4. Software check and update if needed.
5. Clear DME variants.
6. Reset DME adaptations.

Horsepower / torque will stay original (unmodified).

This DME will be updatable in the future (eg. by the dealer)."

So fingers crossed we can plug it in when it comes back and all will be well!!

And you're right. Andy's the man.
 
  #39  
Old 01-23-2017, 07:46 AM
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That is great news...he's got the magic touch...lol...I never gave him a thing was not able to get it back DONE and quickly...
 
  #40  
Old 01-23-2017, 07:03 PM
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I feel like Charlie Brown with the football ...

Module in; car turns over but won't start, and all the warning lights are there. Basically the earlier video without being in running condition.

I have an email in to Andy.
 
  #41  
Old 01-24-2017, 03:32 AM
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You sent him all three components (dme, cas, key fob)? He needs to remarry them or synch them together.
 
  #42  
Old 01-24-2017, 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
You sent him all three components (dme, cas, key fob)? He needs to remarry them or synch them together.
Yeah. I just don't get it ... there's obviously something wrong with the board, but could something else have also gone wrong when it went out originally?
 
  #43  
Old 01-24-2017, 05:50 AM
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if he wasnt able to copy the original files, i think he would've let you know. Also, from talking to him for something I wanted done, he can even pair an DME with a CAS. Was the DME you got healthy?

If you plug in the OBD reader, can you communicate with the "new" DME?
 

Last edited by MiniToBe; 01-24-2017 at 07:49 AM.
  #44  
Old 01-31-2017, 08:50 AM
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I've been gone for several days because of a death in the family; now that I'm back I need to find another one of these. Andy suspects the gateway failed when the module died.

It's covered in numbers. Any helpful hints on how to decipher which numbers I need from a part, rather than asking you guys every time? Seems like my husband and I haven't been home simultaneously for weeks and are just leaving parts out for the other.


 
  #45  
Old 01-31-2017, 08:53 AM
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Sorry for your loss....This is the part number for the fuse box. The gate way is the CAS module, no?

 
  #46  
Old 01-31-2017, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
Sorry for your loss....This is the part number for the fuse box. The gate way is the CAS module, no?

Thanks. As a general rule of thumb, am I looking for seven digits followed by a dash and two more?

Andy called it a junction box or gateway, and said it might be why a code reader can't communicate with the new module; it worked when he tested it there. He suggested finding a used one and seeing what happens; he likened the situation to a phone that works fine (the new module) but if the line is down (the junction box), calls don't come through.

It came out of the passenger floorboard side panel.
 
  #47  
Old 01-31-2017, 09:08 AM
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you are correct about the general rule. there is also realoem.com that you need to book mark. you can use it to verify the part numbers.
 
  #48  
Old 02-05-2017, 07:03 PM
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Thanks for the memories ;)

Thanks for all the help, MiniToBe ... can't thank you enough. <3

Looks like we'll never know what the problem actually is, as the junction box hasn't done the trick and my husband is finished working on Georgina.

Maybe someone can get good use out of the Bentley book I just added to the Marketplace. You know it's serious when he lets go of the Bentley Book!

We just can't go any longer without her running and me driving our 230k MDX that's reserved for hauling remodeling materials and our little trailer, so Georgina's headed to a new home tomorrow. I feel a little bad parking my new 135i behind her, but only a little.

Thanks again, very much! Wish I knew what the problem is just so I could share after all your help!! :D
 
  #49  
Old 02-05-2017, 07:26 PM
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this IS sad to see...i wish i were closer to TX. I know she can be cured. I know it can be fixed... I know this is late in the game but worth putting out there, if you ship her to me, i can get it back to working using the tools/software i have.

Will you get another mini or you're done with them?
 
  #50  
Old 02-05-2017, 08:08 PM
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You're so sweet to offer.

We think it's an electrical problem at this point, but we have now put more money into the car than we bought it for and it hasn't been running more than half of the nine months I've had it. Can't even imagine the financial pain if we'd had to pay labor charges ...

We are literally cutting our losses and having the bank pick it up tomorrow.

So no, we haven't given up on Minis - this is my second - but I think I'll lease a new one next time we replace a car; the warranty is a lovely thing.

We just replaced Georgina with a 2013 BMW 135i with just 15k miles, from a super-reputable dealer and a bit of warranty remaining. I'm pretty excited to actually be motoring again, and it's a fun little car.

And thank you again. I've learned a lot and couldn't have gotten the old girl back to almost-driveable without your help. <3
 




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