Where's the immobilizer?
 

Have to take it out and ship it to Florida along with the key; ECM can't be repaired and has to be replaced. 😕

2008 Cooper Hardtop, base model, automatic

Anything special I need to know about taking it out (and/or putting it back in)?

Thanks!!

it is located under the dash board. you have to remove all of the trim work including the upper glove box. T20 screws. Perform the task with battery disconnected.

There is a guy on ebay that sells cloning service for about 220-260. in my case I had to send him the replacement DME (matching part number) and the original one. :thumbsup:

I don't want to know ...
 

... if there was an easier way to do this.

Between everyone in my house getting sick and a business trip for my husband, we just got this done.

Dear Lord! :eek2:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...3d95bbdb02.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...e4934becc9.jpg

Wow....you didnt have to take the radio off...but good job:thumbsup:

Thanks, Mini2Be. I suspect getting it back together will be the real test of husband's abilities! :lol:

It is easy but systematic. What was the issue with the immobilizer?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4256391

The immobilizer is fine. :)

ECM went down in a blaze of glory; dealership wanted $3500 (and up to $8000 if they thought the other three modules maybe should be replaced at the same time since the car is over 100k - wth?!). Module experts in Florida tested the ECM, found it beyond repair, and are cloning it onto a new board. They need the key and immobilizer to make everything work when it goes back in the car.

How much are they charging you if I may ask?

It was $85 to test the unit and do nothing more.

If they found a fault and it was repairable, my particular make and model and year and all that was just under $400 (test fee applied to that) and included a lifetime warranty.

If it couldn't be repaired, mine was just under $800. Brand new board (not used), everything cloned and the key and immobilizer synced, and a lifetime warranty again. Test fee applied, as well.

Considering it would have cost me $200 to have the car towed to the dealership and they would have charged me at least $160 to diagnose (and they told me repeatedly they had to start the car and hook it up to the computer - in spite of me telling the dealership repeatedly that the car couldn't be started), that $85 diagnostic fee seemed like a great place to start. ;)

There is a guy on ebay that i used more than once. He charges about 260 to clone the ecu. All you would have to give him is your old ecu and a used ecu with matching part number. Just keep that in mind

Thanks. I appreciate you sharing a money-saver. :)

Yeah, we thought about that. The fact that we're getting a brand new board and it comes with a lifetime warranty (with all the work we've put into this car the insides are practically new, so I'd like to get another 100k out of it) for basically 75% off the dealership price were the big factors.

I have an awesome source who pulls and reconditions Mini parts (europeancarpart on EBay, but only about fifteen miles from me) and we didn't have any luck finding a used ECM we were certain was good on short notice.

I think i bought parts from them...I'll share my secret with you guys, try car-part.com this website is the hub of the nation's junk yards. Give it a try.

Awesome; thank you! :D

any updates>?:popcorn:

I think you're psychic. ;)
 

I literally just texted my husband, squealing that the parts had just arrived and I couldn't wait to get my car back!

Module Experts really didn't take that long; husband had a business trip, everyone at our house got sick with the airplane germs he brought home, and then once we sent the immobilizer and key we had weekend and holiday mailing/days off to throw the timeline off even more.

I am *really* hoping we can start putting my car back together tonight and I can be zipping around by Thursday. Cross your fingers for me, please! ;)

Niiiiiiiice...just remember not to connect the battery until every thing is connected to be on the safe side. :thumbsup:

It runs!!
 

All hooked up and she runs again - hallelujah and finally!

One thing, though ... I've got an email in to ModuleExperts because none of my gauges work and every error light possible flashes across the display. Tire pressure light is on but won't reset, brake light on, gas tank shows empty; abs, seat belt, transmission, power steering, and many more. Can't check to be sure it's not throwing any codes because the scanner tries every option available but can't connect/communicate.

Is there something I'm supposed to be doing - there want much in the way of instructions - to get all this back on track?

Very interesting. I guess try to disconnect the battery for a little bit and then reconnect it back. If the issue persists, call them up.

Guy on EBay?
 

I'm not even going to explain the sordid details, but can you give me the seller's name on EBay, MiniToBe? Desperate times, desperate measures. 😕

The guys name is Andy. Send him an email explaining the issue. Please also post pix of what you see on the dash.

precisionecu@gmail.com
Precision Auto
3034 N Central Ave
Chicago, IL 60634
USA

The guys name is Andy. Send him an email explaining the issue. Please also post pix of what you see on the dash.

His seller name on ebay is 6167.

He also has listings see this link too http://www.bonanza.com/listings/Mini-Cooper-Mev172-Med172-Mev1722-Mevd1727-Dme-Ecm-Engine-Computer-Cloning/398787925

precisionecu@gmail.com
Precision Auto
3034 N Central Ave
Chicago, IL 60634
USA

Thank you!!
 

You're a godsend; thank you!!

Anytime. We all help each other...what was the issue after you got the CAS and DME from the guys down Florida. I know you had all the lights lid on the dash, but did it stop starting?

Try, try again ...
 

Long story short, the module guys down in Florida are unable to work on Mini modules right now; they just let go of the guy who was doing their BMW modules because he's apparently not able to flash them - especially Mini - correctly and they don't want to turn out bad work. My original module has been with them since late October and I've sent back the cloned module twice to have it re-done. This is the third time we've gotten it back and they're now issuing me a refund.

They've been nothing but nice, but this is the fourth month my car is sitting. :sad:

So ... new module lets the car start now, but it gives me a host of engine warning lights and when we plug in the code reader, it tries every option available before giving a message that it can't communicate with the car and telling us to try again. This last round of module work lets me start the car without a key in the ignition.


As soon as I get my original module back, I'm getting in touch with Andy!!

I bet you that the BMW tech guy gave you a modded set that is by passing the security of the immo.

When I was working on my Countryman, I had to put another set (ECU, CAS, keyfob) to get the car started. The ABS module did turn off because it was reading a different VIN. the Airbag light was also on because the dash was removed. Same with the transmission module. after I put the cloned set, I still had to reprogram the ABS to accept the original VIN. My issue was bigger since I had to reprogram the steering wheel module and a bunch of others.

is that mileage correct to your car?