R56 another new problem
#1
another new problem
OK. I replaced the thermostat and water tube and walnut blasted the valves. Now I have a new problem. When I go around a right hand turn going up hill, I get the blasted yellow half engine light. This is happening only since putting it all back together. Here's the problem. NO CODES!!! Anyone have any ideas? I can clear it but it comes right back the next time I run the car.
Also, What is the little box like thing below the intake with two looks like vacuum lines going into it. Those hoses won't stay on very well and I'm wondering if they could be my problem as one of them looks like a drain line that hasn't been hooked up to anything.
Thanks
Also, What is the little box like thing below the intake with two looks like vacuum lines going into it. Those hoses won't stay on very well and I'm wondering if they could be my problem as one of them looks like a drain line that hasn't been hooked up to anything.
Thanks
#2
#4
Well it sure does and that's the first thing I checked. Now I seem to notice it's in the exact same spot on the exact same hill and the exact same turn. Maybe I should just change my route. The thing is, I don't seem to be down on power when the light is on. Gonna drive me nuts!!!!! (OK, nuttier.)
#5
Some codes being thrown cannot be read by generic OBDII readers. I'd maybe have it read by a MINI specialist shop just to be sure.
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#6
#7
Ok. The black box, mounted to the frame or whatever you want to call it, has two vacuum lines going to it and at least one of them comes from the solenoid attached to the lower part of the manifold (on the slide on rubber mount). I found both lines off, along with the line to the solenoid thing. Now the problem is I need to take the manifold back off to fix this right so here I go again!!!!! I'll let you know what I find after I get it back together.
It's assembly number 2 in step 6f of this PDF from Texasmontego.
It's assembly number 2 in step 6f of this PDF from Texasmontego.
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#8
Awesome thanks for the right up...I need to change the pressure Converter on my 09'
how difficult is it to remove the intake manifold.. scale one to ten.. I have released it when changing the water inlet pipe to the water pump few weeks back and it seemed to me that the intake mani would not release out...make sense? so rubber grommets are holding it in place?
how difficult is it to remove the intake manifold.. scale one to ten.. I have released it when changing the water inlet pipe to the water pump few weeks back and it seemed to me that the intake mani would not release out...make sense? so rubber grommets are holding it in place?
#9
OK. That fixed THAT (new lines) problem but I'm back to the original problem. I'm throwing a P0117 and a P112b code. The thermostat was changed (twice now) . The first time for the thermostat code (don't remember but maybe Po597) and the new thermostat fixed that one) but a few weeks later I picked up these two codes. So I replaced a second thermostat. I'm NOT running hot and these codes say low temp but my fan is now running. What is the sensor with just one wire next to the thermostat? Engine coolant temperature sensor? or is that in the thermostat? HELLLLPPPP!!!
#10
P0117 is Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low and P112B is Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 Minimum Temperature Implausible. Info on P0117 here. Some info on P112B here and here (last post). Green arrow is the coolant temp sensor. Red arrow is the oil pressure sensor.
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#11
OK. Here's the latest. I'm using Torque to monitor things. It's showing temps from -40 to 310 but not climbing or dropping. Just randomly jumping around. I can lay my hand on the engine after about 15 miles and it's never ran that cool before. HOWEVER, now I don't get ANYTHING out of the bleeder screw. No air, no coolant. My fan is running almost all the time but I can stick my finger in the expansion tank. I even took my Bluetooth adapter out to try it but the codes come back. I do get a momentary red temperature alarm but it goes right out after it comes on. This is an aftermarket thermostat so should I just bite the bullet and put a GENUINE one on? Maybe try just a Genuine temperature sensor?
#12
For P112B in one of the threads I linked it states this:
What thermostat did you purchase?
Some have remedied this with a simple CTS replacement; others have needed a ECU reflash to change internal programming to remove error in the code.
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#15
Check the clip wire on top of the sensor, sounds like its loose or not connected all the way, people had these clips break in the past or the tab breaks, so check that first. Done all kind of thermostat repairs.
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#19
1. The sensor is not picking up the signal and telling the fan to run. Unplug that plug on top of the sensor and plug it back in , should clip tight, also check to make sure on install you did not damage the wires or the wire harness. Its right there , inspect it all.
2. Also you might just be low on coolant and have not bled all the air out which then gets air in the thermostat housing which causes the fan to run. Top off you expansion tank and re-bleed the system.
2. Also you might just be low on coolant and have not bled all the air out which then gets air in the thermostat housing which causes the fan to run. Top off you expansion tank and re-bleed the system.
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#20
#21
Ah , now i see. You need to keep filling the expansion tank with coolant and follow the bleed procedure. Unscrew the bleeder screw while doing so and after a while you will get coolant , you have air coming out , just not with the coolant itself with bubbles. Its has to fill up and top itself off. Takes a few time sometimes to burp it out. .
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3397203
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3397203
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#23
Ok.
You have to unscrew the bleeder to what feels like almost 3/4+ of the way out , it has a little rubber o ring also on the end. Hold the end of the bleeder with a Philips head screw driver so it will not pop out all the way off and fall into the engine bay. Did you try that ?
You have to unscrew the bleeder to what feels like almost 3/4+ of the way out , it has a little rubber o ring also on the end. Hold the end of the bleeder with a Philips head screw driver so it will not pop out all the way off and fall into the engine bay. Did you try that ?
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#24
#25
Think this is it 12527542849
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/12527542849/
You can push the old pins out from the side they clip in and snap on the tab. The plug itself think is the issue when it clips.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/12527542849/
You can push the old pins out from the side they clip in and snap on the tab. The plug itself think is the issue when it clips.
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