Recently had timing chain/ tensioner replaced, drove car approx. 250 miles between 4 or 5 days starting fine each morning, parked on the fifth day evening at restaurant wouldn't start/ just turns over, three hours later, towed to shop diagnosed below, make sense???


ATTEMPTED TO START AFTER OFF THE TOW TRUCK, CAR STARTED, PLEASE CHECK ** VERIFIED CONCERN, FOUND DTC'S 2D55-INJECTOR # 1 CIRCUIT LOW; 2D59-INJECOTR # 3 CIRCUIT
LOW; 2D5D-INJECTOR # 4 CIRCUIT LOW; 2D61-INJECTOR # 2 CIRCUIT LOW; 2A53-O2 SENSOR HEATING AFTER CAT; 2A63-O2
SENSOR HEATING BEFORE CAT; 2D57-INJECTOR # 1 OPEN CIRCUIT; 2D5A-INJECTOR # 3 OPEN CIRCUIT; 2D5F-INJECTOR # 4 OPEN CIRCTUI; AND 2D63-INJECTOR # 2 OPEN CIRCUIT. CHARGED THE VERY LOW BATTERY, CHECKED ALL THE FUSES AND RELAYS-NO
ISSUE. IJECTORS AND O2 SENSORS ARE ON THE SAME CIRCUIT THAT ORIGINATES FROM THE DME ITSELF. VISUALLY INSPECTED WIRING HARNESS AND TERMINALS-NO ISSUE FOUND. MONITORED CIRCUIT VOLTAGE DROP FOR SEVERAL STARTS WITH NO ISSUES FOUND. TEST O2 SENSOR HEATER RESISTANCE AND AMPERAGE DRAW-NO ISSUES. MOST LIKELY CAUSE IS THE O2 SENSORS HEATERS SHORTING OUT AND DRAWING DOWN THE VOLTAGE TO THE INJECTORS AND HEATERS, RECOMMEND REPLACING BOTH SENSORS, RESETTING ADPTATIONS, AND RECHECK.

 

I had a similar no start issue which was traced to an end stop pin in the VANOS. it caused the intake valves to stay closed.

The dealer was running diagnostics and it kept asking to calibrate the VANOS. This is what tipped them off.

Never heard of O2 sensors causing a no start issues..

 

I've never heard of an O2 sensor heater shorting, I would think it would blow a fuse if it did. Sounds like your battery being low kept it from starting, and a low battery will cause all kinds of codes.

How old is the car? How many mile on it? O2 Sensors are usually good for 100k plus, then you start getting "out of expected range" errors with an occasional CEL.

I'd charge that battery fully, then read and clear codes. Drive it for a day then, check codes. and repeat until you throw a code.

 

I have never seen or heard of that happening. Definitely get a new battery clear faults and see what comes back.

 

O2 sensors should not cause car to fail to start. The upstream (before catalytic converter) controls the fuel trim at idle and under cruise. The signal causes the ECU to adjust the fuel delivery for better efficiency. On cold start, the ECU meters fuel on set parameters. O2 sensors do nothing at this point. When warmed up, the O2 sensor takes over in real time adjusting fuel. Under acceleration, the O2 sensor does nothing. If the upstream sensor goes out, the car will run on the set parameters. If it gives a bad signal, the engine then misses or runs bad. Fuel economy goes down.

The downstream O2 sensor checks the efficiency of the catalytic converter by comparing the stoichiometric swing of the first O2 with the second O2. As the fuel trim adjusts, the oxygen sensor reads lean, then rich, and back. It swings relatively fast. The catalytic converter "burns" the fuel, leveling the swing of the fuel to oxygen level. The downstream O2 will read this long swing oscillation instead of the quick swing. When the swings oscillate closer together, the computer reads this as an inefficient converter.

If you are missing at idle or cruise surges and has poor gas mileage, it is the upstream sensor. If it is the downstream, usually it throws a code to check cats.

If you are missing under acceleration , the O2 sensors are not to blame.

At cold start, they provide no data and the car is running on the computer program only.

Reset codes, charge battery, start again. If the heater in the O2 sensor is out, check engine light should come on immediately.

Tim

 

Start with clearing the codes and seeing what comes back, followed by testing the battery.

After you've found out what codes are recurring that will make things easier. If the car is an automatic you may need to clear the codes from the trans module too, as they can get caught in there and cause problems even thought they're not stored in the DME.

I doubt you need a lambda sensor, but it is possible it was damaged during the timing chain job.

 

2010 R55 with approx 95000 miles...
shop cleared codes, I changed both O2 like they recommended, also changed spark plugs [car would idle rough misfire before timing chain/ tensioner repair, wouldn't stall] was much better after timing repair, still vague miss, miss went away after new spark plugs [were worn bad].


now have new codes [from icarsoft reader]


-287d high-pressure fuel injector, lowside 12
-2f22 engine temperature, plausibility
-2f1a coolant temperature sensor, signal


car starts, sight hesitation in lower speeds, clicking noise after warmup at idle[vanos solenoid]??? drives fine down highway at high speeds.


fan comes on a lot, stays on after cars shutsoff, air temps are in the mid fifties...


thermostat housing was also changed when timing/ tensioner repair was done, apparent mishaps...


Kevin

 

You either have a faulty thermostat or someone plugged the thermostat temp sensor into the PCV heater and the PCV heater into the thermostat temp sensor.

No other reason for those codes to be present aside from a thermostat fault, no coolant, or misplaced connections. Is the car an automatic? If so they need to clear the codes from the transmission module too, any codes stored in the trans module can and will affect the engine operation.