It's a wah wah sound that speeds up and slows down with the car. Sounds like it's the driver's front bearing. However there isn't any play in the wheels, everything is tight feeling. Car has new tires, struts, and some of those Ireland fixed camber towers.

 

The sound you describe could also be your tires. Drive the car at a speed where you can clearly hear the sound, and then carefully rock the car back and forth. If the sound comes and goes as you swerve back and forth, it's probably your bearing. if it stays pretty much the same, it's probably your tires. Also, bearing noise tends to disappear as you slow to a near-stop.

 

Would the "1.25 degrees of negative camber" cause the tires to make the noise? It didn't start until after I installed the camber plates. I needed new tires so I thought they might be making the sound. Once I replaced them the sound was still there. I'll have to rock it after work, but it does go away the slower you go. I figured the added angle on 12 year old bearings might have them wearing differently.

 

I don't think you can blame the negative camber for a potentially failed bearing. Either way, you'll need to confirm and replace. Unfortunately, the bearings are sold as part of a hub assembly, making them more expensive than if you could just replace the actual bearing.

 

Yeah, I have a couple waiting on me at the parts store, just wanted to pick yall's brains before I dug into it. At least I don't have to fool around with greasing the bearings

 

Might be in the first stage of wear before you can feel it in the turns.

Just watch on replace not to bump or break the wheel speed sensor.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ed-sensor.html

 

^What Eric said.

But if it is a constant "wub wub wub wub wub" sound it more than likely a tire issue. You need to be more diligent about tire rotations and tire wear when you increase your negative camber settings.

 

My bad, I didn't realize the link to my video didn't work

http://vid151.photobucket.com/albums...ps1xlvg4p0.mp4

 

The sound of the bearing is more of a low growl that gets louder , but if its a hopping sounds its the cupping wear on the tires.

 

The tires have less than 500 miles on them. Guess I need to get it in the air this weekend.

 

I replaced bearing before and the sound disappears when steering, too, or at least mine did.

 

I've had some instances where tires were very loud inside the cabin due to not doing tire rotations/balances. The tires only having 500 miles on them is pretty interesting. Was this noise happening before you had the tires replaced? When did it just become apparent to you? Have you ever replaced the bearings and if not how many miles are on them currently? A faulty wheel bearing can exhibit a few warning signs. The most obvious would be a howling or grinding noise from a front wheel while in motion. This noise would get louder when you steer side to side. If worse when steering to the right, the left side bearing is usually at fault and the opposite holds true for when steering left. You can check for a noisy wheel bearing with the vehicle stationary too. Jack the front of your vehicle and rotate the front wheel; while rotating, place your hand on the front coil spring. You should be able to pick up a vibration in the spring. There may also be free-play in the bearing. You can check for free-play by jacking the front of your vehicle and wiggling the wheel up and down. If there is any free-play, replace the bearing. I've had bearings exhibit a few very strange noises and issues.

 

Sounds more tire like to me, either tire wear problem, bent wheel, or balance issue.

Unless you were slipping the clutch each shift it sounds like you may be in for a clutch in the future, the revs didn't stay consistent and sounded like the clutch was playing catch up with the engine revs.

 

I assume they're factory hubs with 128k on them. I noticed it after I put FSD struts and the Ireland camber plates on the car. Had the wheels aligned afterwards, but noise was still there and assumed the tires were contacting the road different than the previous setup. Tires were replaced, but still had noise. It's the wife's car so I don't drive it much, but the noise seems worse than when it was first noticed.

Yeah I noticed that too. Doesn't surprise me, it's been snowballing since the day we bought it.

 

Good news, it was the lower control arm bolt to the sub-frame. It backed itself off and caused a lot of play in the assembly. Tightened up and no noise.

Bad news, might as well pull the engine and replace every seal in the dang thing.

 

Thanks for the update , never had a bolt to the subframe back out, its a big bolt. While you are these would at least change out all the bushing / ball joints and p/s hoses. Hope you can get everything back ok no and no annoying rattle.

 

To be honest it wouldn't surprise me if we forgot to tighten that bolt once we had it all back together. It was late and we sped through the buttoning down process. Hard lesson to learn.

 

Yea, its a big job, i hear yea. Arm get tired and you are in the final run. I did all mine ( all bushings tie rods.. etc with the clutch change out also and at the end of it all i was beat and that was with a lift.

 

More bad news. Thread in the sub-frame said bolt goes in is ovaled. It started doing the same noises not long after we got it back. The bolt has play in it so they're going to have to replace the sub-frame itself.

Wife hit a big pothole a while back that seems to have created a snowball of issues with this bolt/hole being the final kicker. They're going ahead and replacing some seals, ball-joints, CV boots, end links, a nice laundry list of things while they're at it.

 

So the subframe weld in nut is stripped ?

 

Yep, and according to them the whole frame has to be replaced. I'd assume the frame doesn't HAVE to be replaced, that some good rewelding/tapping could fix it, but I'm done chasing problems on this thing and told the dealer to just fix it all.

 

Yea, I would try to retap it first.

 

Personally, you could have just run a through bolt/nut setup for about $8 for grade 10 hardware and fixed the issue. Subframes aren't cheap, and the dealer is going to ream you with the cost of parts and labor.

 

I realize there was a cheaper way to do it, but I didn't have to touch it and we got the wear items replaced at the same time. The hub was toast as well. Now we're back to carving through the twisties like butter.

Most important part is the wife is happy, and we can hear the new exhaust finally. Oh and we won't end up in a ditch.

 

Thanks for the update, happy wife=happy life.