R50/53 So then, what typically causes cold start bogging / sputtering for the R53?
#1
So then, what typically causes cold start bogging / sputtering for the R53?
So after doing all of the routine maintenance on both of our recently acquired R53's, they both do the weird sputtering / struggling to run song & dance in the morning & at this point I'm wondering if that's just a normal quirk of the car?
So far, we have:
Changed oil to Mobil 1 0w40
Replaced air filter
Cleaned MAP sensors
Installed boost gauge, verified proper vacuum / boost levels
Ran Seafoam through air intake & fuel
Run a few bottles of Techron through fuel
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced spark plugs with OEM style NGK's
Checked / Replaced plug wires
Tested battery
It seems that whenever I search for this topic, I get a bunch of threads about 2nd gen Minis & how they need to replace their HPFP. Except..... the R53 doesn't have a HPFP, so.... yeah.
Once the cars are up & running, everything seems fine, I just want to address the issue if there is one.
Also, the issue does not seem to be temperature dependent. Then again, we are in California where the temperature doesn't vary all that much, but still...
Any thoughts? Thanks!
So far, we have:
Changed oil to Mobil 1 0w40
Replaced air filter
Cleaned MAP sensors
Installed boost gauge, verified proper vacuum / boost levels
Ran Seafoam through air intake & fuel
Run a few bottles of Techron through fuel
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced spark plugs with OEM style NGK's
Checked / Replaced plug wires
Tested battery
It seems that whenever I search for this topic, I get a bunch of threads about 2nd gen Minis & how they need to replace their HPFP. Except..... the R53 doesn't have a HPFP, so.... yeah.
Once the cars are up & running, everything seems fine, I just want to address the issue if there is one.
Also, the issue does not seem to be temperature dependent. Then again, we are in California where the temperature doesn't vary all that much, but still...
Any thoughts? Thanks!
#2
#3
#4
I'm very curious about an answer to this, too. My 2003 R53 frequently has starting issues in certain weather. If it's between about 55 and 75 degrees and the engine is cold (overnight, not just an 8-hour workday), it'll fail to start the first time I try. It runs rough at about 500rpm, then sputters out. Sometimes, if I hold the starter a little longer, it'll get up to normal idle. The next time I turn the key, it starts normally.
#5
#6
I was going to be looking into this myself - California also... does it only sometimes though in the mornings when Im getting ready to leave for work. Ive also done most the same as you (changed oil, did plugs and wires, air filter, etc.)
I guess next would be to check what IQ said and see about the fuel pump/filter maybe?
I guess next would be to check what IQ said and see about the fuel pump/filter maybe?
#7
I was going to be looking into this myself - California also... does it only sometimes though in the mornings when Im getting ready to leave for work. Ive also done most the same as you (changed oil, did plugs and wires, air filter, etc.)
I guess next would be to check what IQ said and see about the fuel pump/filter maybe?
I guess next would be to check what IQ said and see about the fuel pump/filter maybe?
Mine actually did it for the few time a few months after I put in a new fuel filter. It would do it in the mornings before I would go to work.....it was crank for a second, fire up...bobble and shutter for a second, and then die. Turn the key again...fired right up and ran like a top. It did that for a few days in a row, and then just went away. I never got a check engine line, or had any other issues. Weird problem...especially when it just goes away on its own.
I hope you figure it out.
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#8
Mine actually did it for the few time a few months after I put in a new fuel filter. It would do it in the mornings before I would go to work.....it was crank for a second, fire up...bobble and shutter for a second, and then die. Turn the key again...fired right up and ran like a top. It did that for a few days in a row, and then just went away. I never got a check engine line, or had any other issues. Weird problem...especially when it just goes away on its own.
I hope you figure it out.
I hope you figure it out.
I did a search and saw a thread back from '10 here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...art-fixed.html
Though the problem was never solved and thread just died out... Im curious as to what the problem is or if its just a normal thing?
#9
Alright, so today after work, I went out & started my car, only to have the DSC light come on, the SES light blink & finally turn solid & the idle was just awful for about 10-15 seconds, then it chilled out & ran fine, albeit with the SES light on. I scanned it & found it to be a P0302, Cylinder 2 Misfire.
Reading through some older threads here on NAM, it sounds like it may be:
-bunk exhaust valve
-bad electrical connection to fuel injector
-bad fuel injector
-bad spark plug connection
-bad coil pack
So then, since I recently replaced my plugs & wires, I think the first thing to check would be my compression. If I have time this weekend, I'll do a dry compression test & check the condition of my plugs as well.
I should add to the symptoms that my car smells of either unburnt fuel or very rich exhaust for the first few seconds after it fires up, if that's helpful at all....
Reading through some older threads here on NAM, it sounds like it may be:
-bunk exhaust valve
-bad electrical connection to fuel injector
-bad fuel injector
-bad spark plug connection
-bad coil pack
So then, since I recently replaced my plugs & wires, I think the first thing to check would be my compression. If I have time this weekend, I'll do a dry compression test & check the condition of my plugs as well.
I should add to the symptoms that my car smells of either unburnt fuel or very rich exhaust for the first few seconds after it fires up, if that's helpful at all....
#10
#11
#12
Alright, so today after work, I went out & started my car, only to have the DSC light come on, the SES light blink & finally turn solid & the idle was just awful for about 10-15 seconds, then it chilled out & ran fine, albeit with the SES light on. I scanned it & found it to be a P0302, Cylinder 2 Misfire.
Reading through some older threads here on NAM, it sounds like it may be:
-bunk exhaust valve
-bad electrical connection to fuel injector
-bad fuel injector
-bad spark plug connection
-bad coil pack
So then, since I recently replaced my plugs & wires, I think the first thing to check would be my compression. If I have time this weekend, I'll do a dry compression test & check the condition of my plugs as well.
I should add to the symptoms that my car smells of either unburnt fuel or very rich exhaust for the first few seconds after it fires up, if that's helpful at all....
Reading through some older threads here on NAM, it sounds like it may be:
-bunk exhaust valve
-bad electrical connection to fuel injector
-bad fuel injector
-bad spark plug connection
-bad coil pack
So then, since I recently replaced my plugs & wires, I think the first thing to check would be my compression. If I have time this weekend, I'll do a dry compression test & check the condition of my plugs as well.
I should add to the symptoms that my car smells of either unburnt fuel or very rich exhaust for the first few seconds after it fires up, if that's helpful at all....
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#13
My two thoughts are, I wonder if there's something in the ECU that could use an update, and is it the stock ignition? If so, how does the 3rd cylinder post look?
My car does a similar thing sometimes but I've been thinking it's the battery which I'm assuming yours checked out just fine. You might try leaving it on the charger overnight and seeing if it sputters in the morning, perhaps the battery is still good enough to check out ok, but just weak enough to not crank it hard enough.
My car does a similar thing sometimes but I've been thinking it's the battery which I'm assuming yours checked out just fine. You might try leaving it on the charger overnight and seeing if it sputters in the morning, perhaps the battery is still good enough to check out ok, but just weak enough to not crank it hard enough.
#15
My 06 checkmate does the same thing at random. This morning it was fine. Yesterday, its sputtered and stumbled. I just did plugs and checked the posts on the coil. Sometimes it does it after work too, but always starts.
I am really looking for a solution too... it seems electrical, as it sounds like it cranks hard (p-chew p-chew, puff puff, VROOOM) with not enough amperage behind it. My battery puts out 14.4 all day long and tests above 12v sitting.
I am really looking for a solution too... it seems electrical, as it sounds like it cranks hard (p-chew p-chew, puff puff, VROOOM) with not enough amperage behind it. My battery puts out 14.4 all day long and tests above 12v sitting.
#16
Alrighty, I think I may have solved the issue, at least, on my car. After it threw a couple Cylinder 2 misfire codes, I started researching potential causes, which prompted me to take a closer look at my ignition coil terminals. I recently installed Ireland Engineering spark plug wires & admittedly skipped the use of any new silicone grease. So then, I went out, pulled the wires off the coil, cleaned them with brake cleaner on a paper towel & proceed to lightly sand them with 320 grit sandpaper. They all came out looking pretty much the same as when I started EXCEPT cylinder 2's post left a thin layer of white residue on the sandpaper (calcium deposit?). The post itself was also slightly pitted when looking very, very closely after sanding. So then, I lightly greased the coil posts & inside of all the boots & it's been firing up strong & running smoother / more responsively ever since! This thread has certainly made me wonder about my compression readings & I will check that out next, but for now all seems to be good!
#17
I'm very curious about an answer to this, too. My 2003 R53 frequently has starting issues in certain weather. If it's between about 55 and 75 degrees and the engine is cold (overnight, not just an 8-hour workday), it'll fail to start the first time I try. It runs rough at about 500rpm, then sputters out. Sometimes, if I hold the starter a little longer, it'll get up to normal idle. The next time I turn the key, it starts normally.
#20
I just read a post from 2006-present stating that the summer gas mixture from most gas companies will effect the injectors and cause this issue. Or it could be the heat too. I dont know. Also wondering if its time for JCW injectors
#21
Well....after an entire summer of not doing, it did it again for the first time this morning. I'm guessing it has something to do with the outside temperature....since the morning temps have just dipped down into the mid 50's here.
I hop in the car, turn the key, it will crank a few times like normal, then fire up but sound like it's only running on 2-3 cylinders......it does this for about 3 seconds, and then dies. The tach never gets over 500rpm or so.
I try it again....fires right up like a champ, run fine.
It did this a few times to me last year also....I hope this issues isn't coming back.
I hop in the car, turn the key, it will crank a few times like normal, then fire up but sound like it's only running on 2-3 cylinders......it does this for about 3 seconds, and then dies. The tach never gets over 500rpm or so.
I try it again....fires right up like a champ, run fine.
It did this a few times to me last year also....I hope this issues isn't coming back.
#22
Well....after an entire summer of not doing, it did it again for the first time this morning. I'm guessing it has something to do with the outside temperature....since the morning temps have just dipped down into the mid 50's here.
I hop in the car, turn the key, it will crank a few times like normal, then fire up but sound like it's only running on 2-3 cylinders......it does this for about 3 seconds, and then dies. The tach never gets over 500rpm or so.
I try it again....fires right up like a champ, run fine.
It did this a few times to me last year also....I hope this issues isn't coming back.
I hop in the car, turn the key, it will crank a few times like normal, then fire up but sound like it's only running on 2-3 cylinders......it does this for about 3 seconds, and then dies. The tach never gets over 500rpm or so.
I try it again....fires right up like a champ, run fine.
It did this a few times to me last year also....I hope this issues isn't coming back.
#23