R50/53 Buying a new Transmission from Autozone
#1
10-21-2014, 08:51 PM
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Buying a new Transmission from Autozone
I found a 3year warrantied TF60SN at Autozone. It's rebuilt and supposedly updated to reflect improvements for "trouble points" in the transmission.
I am assuming that My "S" model is the TF60SN because its an automatic and has a torque converter. I pulled it out last weekend.
Autozone sells two different transmissions for the year and I just wanted to make sure that this is the TF60SN.
Is there anyway I can verify this from the markings on the tranny? Or is this the only transmission that was put in the 05 that is automatic with a torque converter?
Just wanna make sure before I order.
Any help is much appreciated...
I am assuming that My "S" model is the TF60SN because its an automatic and has a torque converter. I pulled it out last weekend.
Autozone sells two different transmissions for the year and I just wanted to make sure that this is the TF60SN.
Is there anyway I can verify this from the markings on the tranny? Or is this the only transmission that was put in the 05 that is automatic with a torque converter?
Just wanna make sure before I order.
Any help is much appreciated...
#2
10-22-2014, 09:04 PM
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Anybody?
I found a 3year warrantied TF60SN at Autozone. It's rebuilt and supposedly updated to reflect improvements for "trouble points" in the transmission.
I am assuming that My "S" model is the TF60SN because its an automatic and has a torque converter. I pulled it out last weekend.
Autozone sells two different transmissions for the year and I just wanted to make sure that this is the TF60SN.
Is there anyway I can verify this from the markings on the tranny? Or is this the only transmission that was put in the 05 that is automatic with a torque converter?
Just wanna make sure before I order.
Any help is much appreciated...
I am assuming that My "S" model is the TF60SN because its an automatic and has a torque converter. I pulled it out last weekend.
Autozone sells two different transmissions for the year and I just wanted to make sure that this is the TF60SN.
Is there anyway I can verify this from the markings on the tranny? Or is this the only transmission that was put in the 05 that is automatic with a torque converter?
Just wanna make sure before I order.
Any help is much appreciated...
#3
10-23-2014, 03:22 AM
5th Gear
#4
10-23-2014, 06:26 AM
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Good point.
Ya...I guess I've never really trusted the parts kids behind the counter.
Digging deeper...All Trans is the re builder that supplies Autozone and pricing is better through Autozone than direct. (3500 plus 950 core).
I will also call Mini...doesn't usually cross my mind to call the dealer but we'll worth a try.
I'll see if I can give them the vin and make sure 100 percent.
I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the great suggestion!
Digging deeper...All Trans is the re builder that supplies Autozone and pricing is better through Autozone than direct. (3500 plus 950 core).
I will also call Mini...doesn't usually cross my mind to call the dealer but we'll worth a try.
I'll see if I can give them the vin and make sure 100 percent.
I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the great suggestion!
#5
10-23-2014, 07:00 AM
5th Gear
Ya...I guess I've never really trusted the parts kids behind the counter.
Digging deeper...All Trans is the re builder that supplies Autozone and pricing is better through Autozone than direct. (3500 plus 950 core).
I will also call Mini...doesn't usually cross my mind to call the dealer but we'll worth a try.
I'll see if I can give them the vin and make sure 100 percent.
I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the great suggestion!
Digging deeper...All Trans is the re builder that supplies Autozone and pricing is better through Autozone than direct. (3500 plus 950 core).
I will also call Mini...doesn't usually cross my mind to call the dealer but we'll worth a try.
I'll see if I can give them the vin and make sure 100 percent.
I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the great suggestion!
#6
10-23-2014, 07:14 AM
I really wouldn't even consider buying a TF60SN remanufactured transmission from anyone but the dealer.
And yes if your car is an "S" model with an 5 speed automatic transmission it is a TF60SN.
I wouldn't buy **** from autozone for any Mini.
And spending $3500 on a car that is likely worth more than $10k doesn't sound excessive at all or would you rather throw $10K away?
And yes if your car is an "S" model with an 5 speed automatic transmission it is a TF60SN.
I wouldn't buy **** from autozone for any Mini.
And spending $3500 on a car that is likely worth more than $10k doesn't sound excessive at all or would you rather throw $10K away?
#7
10-23-2014, 07:22 AM
5th Gear
I really wouldn't even consider buying a TF60SN remanufactured transmission from anyone but the dealer.
And yes if your car is an "S" model with an 5 speed automatic transmission it is a TF60SN.
I wouldn't buy **** from autozone for any Mini.
And spending $3500 on a car that is likely worth more than $10k doesn't sound excessive at all or would you rather throw $10K away?
And yes if your car is an "S" model with an 5 speed automatic transmission it is a TF60SN.
I wouldn't buy **** from autozone for any Mini.
And spending $3500 on a car that is likely worth more than $10k doesn't sound excessive at all or would you rather throw $10K away?
I'll add -- parting out a car is a VERY slow process... I am just questioning whether or not a used transmission would be a better option..not should he fix the car.
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#8
10-23-2014, 07:41 AM
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A running car is worth 10k -- his car needs a transmission -- so the question really is: should I spend 3500 on a car worth 6500??? He could part out the car and probably get enough cash from parts etc.. to get himself a running car... my personal thoughts.
I'll add -- parting out a car is a VERY slow process... I am just questioning whether or not a used transmission would be a better option..not should he fix the car.
I'll add -- parting out a car is a VERY slow process... I am just questioning whether or not a used transmission would be a better option..not should he fix the car.
The S has 88k on the car and motor. It's pristine inside and out except a ding in the bumper.
As far as cost...I bought it for 2000 bucks with the bad tranny. My plan was to convert to a six speed getrag but I commute 35 miles each way so I thought it might be good (and easier) just to replace the aisin.
I would love opinions. Keep in mind, autozone is the middleman and backs it up with a 3 yr warranty.
Please weigh in on whether I should convert over or just replace and then maintain like an OCD patient. Also keep in mind, I won't have more than 7k into this either way I go...
I welcome all comments.
#10
10-23-2014, 08:03 AM
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#11
10-23-2014, 08:26 AM
1st Gear
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#12
10-23-2014, 03:18 PM
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interchange result
Ya...I guess I've never really trusted the parts kids behind the counter.
Digging deeper...All Trans is the re builder that supplies Autozone and pricing is better through Autozone than direct. (3500 plus 950 core).
I will also call Mini...doesn't usually cross my mind to call the dealer but we'll worth a try.
I'll see if I can give them the vin and make sure 100 percent.
I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the great suggestion!
Digging deeper...All Trans is the re builder that supplies Autozone and pricing is better through Autozone than direct. (3500 plus 950 core).
I will also call Mini...doesn't usually cross my mind to call the dealer but we'll worth a try.
I'll see if I can give them the vin and make sure 100 percent.
I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the great suggestion!
#13
10-23-2014, 03:21 PM
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I called a local tranny place and they can get a good rebuild with 18,000 mile 18 month warranty. Won't let me install because of programming difficulty but they only want...get this 5150.00 to do the job.
Is it worth it? Less than 7500 into the car at that point and I don't have to do the work...hmm...
#14
10-23-2014, 03:40 PM
One issue with converting an S from auto to a stick is engine location...
It sits PHYSICALLY more to one side... So new mounts, etc, along with flahing the tranny, etc would be needed....while doing the conversion on an cooper is possible...it is more a labor of love, since it does not make $$ sense in most cases....
I'd drop a rebuilt ASIN unit in....and never look back...just keep it clean...most gen1 tranny's fail (if not from a bad valve body) from bad fluid that was cooked from hard driving, and then never changed because of years of mini (not ASIN) saying utvhad lifetime fluid....
And keep in mind....many similar trannys go 200,000+ miles with regular fluid changes in Toyota products....so I would not fear the tranny.......heck most local rebuilders can do them with "improveed" friction materials.... Heck over on *** one member took his apart, and with a shop tranny rebuild book, did his own....
It sits PHYSICALLY more to one side... So new mounts, etc, along with flahing the tranny, etc would be needed....while doing the conversion on an cooper is possible...it is more a labor of love, since it does not make $$ sense in most cases....
I'd drop a rebuilt ASIN unit in....and never look back...just keep it clean...most gen1 tranny's fail (if not from a bad valve body) from bad fluid that was cooked from hard driving, and then never changed because of years of mini (not ASIN) saying utvhad lifetime fluid....
And keep in mind....many similar trannys go 200,000+ miles with regular fluid changes in Toyota products....so I would not fear the tranny.......heck most local rebuilders can do them with "improveed" friction materials.... Heck over on *** one member took his apart, and with a shop tranny rebuild book, did his own....
#15
10-23-2014, 07:49 PM
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One issue with converting an S from auto to a stick is engine location...
It sits PHYSICALLY more to one side... So new mounts, etc, along with flahing the tranny, etc would be needed....while doing the conversion on an cooper is possible...it is more a labor of love, since it does not make $$ sense in most cases....
I'd drop a rebuilt ASIN unit in....and never look back...just keep it clean...most gen1 tranny's fail (if not from a bad valve body) from bad fluid that was cooked from hard driving, and then never changed because of years of mini (not ASIN) saying utvhad lifetime fluid....
And keep in mind....many similar trannys go 200,000+ miles with regular fluid changes in Toyota products....so I would not fear the tranny.......heck most local rebuilders can do them with "improveed" friction materials.... Heck over on *** one member took his apart, and with a shop tranny rebuild book, did his own....
It sits PHYSICALLY more to one side... So new mounts, etc, along with flahing the tranny, etc would be needed....while doing the conversion on an cooper is possible...it is more a labor of love, since it does not make $$ sense in most cases....
I'd drop a rebuilt ASIN unit in....and never look back...just keep it clean...most gen1 tranny's fail (if not from a bad valve body) from bad fluid that was cooked from hard driving, and then never changed because of years of mini (not ASIN) saying utvhad lifetime fluid....
And keep in mind....many similar trannys go 200,000+ miles with regular fluid changes in Toyota products....so I would not fear the tranny.......heck most local rebuilders can do them with "improveed" friction materials.... Heck over on *** one member took his apart, and with a shop tranny rebuild book, did his own....
#16
10-23-2014, 09:18 PM
Blimey on one of the competing websites did it...ran his own blog on the car a few years ago...now he has converted the car (a cabrio) into a 2 seater...making a better track car...lots of great info for ANY gen1 owner...
A bit of bad blood between these two...guess the founder is a former mod here...
After the valve body change failed to fix his issue...he got a rebuild guide, and all the parts, no issues...hense the ### if in post the name...shame, sites are complementary, and have a different following...
Even did a diy guide...called himself crazy for trying, but it worked!!
A bit of bad blood between these two...guess the founder is a former mod here...
After the valve body change failed to fix his issue...he got a rebuild guide, and all the parts, no issues...hense the ### if in post the name...shame, sites are complementary, and have a different following...
Even did a diy guide...called himself crazy for trying, but it worked!!
#17
10-24-2014, 06:16 AM
4th Gear
To the OP: Are you certain you need to replace the trans as opposed to rebuilding the valve body? I did not see a diagnoses in your post....
Bad shifts suggest that the valve body could be the issue, slipping means the clutches are bad. If the latter is the main issue then replace the trans.
Bad shifts suggest that the valve body could be the issue, slipping means the clutches are bad. If the latter is the main issue then replace the trans.
#18
10-24-2014, 06:18 AM
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Blimey on one of the competing websites did it...ran his own blog on the car a few years ago...now he has converted the car (a cabrio) into a 2 seater...making a better track car...lots of great info for ANY gen1 owner...
A bit of bad blood between these two...guess the founder is a former mod here...
After the valve body change failed to fix his issue...he got a rebuild guide, and all the parts, no issues...hense the ### if in post the name...shame, sites are complementary, and have a different following...
Even did a diy guide...called himself crazy for trying, but it worked!!
A bit of bad blood between these two...guess the founder is a former mod here...
After the valve body change failed to fix his issue...he got a rebuild guide, and all the parts, no issues...hense the ### if in post the name...shame, sites are complementary, and have a different following...
Even did a diy guide...called himself crazy for trying, but it worked!!
#19
10-24-2014, 06:31 AM
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To the OP: Are you certain you need to replace the trans as opposed to rebuilding the valve body? I did not see a diagnoses in your post....
Bad shifts suggest that the valve body could be the issue, slipping means the clutches are bad. If the latter is the main issue then replace the trans.
Bad shifts suggest that the valve body could be the issue, slipping means the clutches are bad. If the latter is the main issue then replace the trans.
When I pulled it nothing drained from the pan when I opened up the drain plug.
And the nail in the coffin for me was the fact that the drivers side axle would not come out. In fact I pulled the tranny and engine with it still in and separated tranny from bell housing before I could get a good enough angle to use two large wedges and a 5 lb hammer to get it to come out. The end of the axle had gotten so hot the metal was purple blue...
The tranny spindle seal was hard, cracked and chewed up.
Please chime in on thoughts and share experience.
#20
10-24-2014, 10:11 AM
4th Gear
Good question. When I bought it the tranny was leaking when the engine was running...When I say leaking I mean steady stream creating a puddle.
When I pulled it nothing drained from the pan when I opened up the drain plug.
And the nail in the coffin for me was the fact that the drivers side axle would not come out. In fact I pulled the tranny and engine with it still in and separated tranny from bell housing before I could get a good enough angle to use two large wedges and a 5 lb hammer to get it to come out. The end of the axle had gotten so hot the metal was purple blue...
The tranny spindle seal was hard, cracked and chewed up.
Please chime in on thoughts and share experience.
When I pulled it nothing drained from the pan when I opened up the drain plug.
And the nail in the coffin for me was the fact that the drivers side axle would not come out. In fact I pulled the tranny and engine with it still in and separated tranny from bell housing before I could get a good enough angle to use two large wedges and a 5 lb hammer to get it to come out. The end of the axle had gotten so hot the metal was purple blue...
The tranny spindle seal was hard, cracked and chewed up.
Please chime in on thoughts and share experience.
Good luck,
Peter
#21
10-24-2014, 10:36 AM
I've heard of people spending $3000-$5000 for this. I'm pretty handy, and figured I'd tackle it myself. It's not my daily driver, and I could deal with the car being down for a month or more if that's what it took. I also have enough garage space, a good workshop space, and lots of tools. Don't attempt it otherwise.
Many shops won't touch these, apparently. And, when they do, it's crazy expensive. There's really nothing special about the transmission itself. There are no "hard parts" available (nor do they typically need any), but service kits are readily available. The biggest deal is that the engine must be pulled to get to the transmission. If you're not up to doing the transmission rebuild yourself, and you have problems finding a transmission shop that will work on MINIs, you may find a shop that will do the actual rebuild, if you or a friend or a MINI-capable mechanic can do the engine work and just bring the shop the transmission, off the car. Investigate this option if you think it may fit your situation. Some shops may do that, some may not.
The rebuild:
Luckily, the MINI automatic transmission isn't the mystery that it was a few years ago.
All automatic MINIs except 1st gen CVTs use the Aisin TF-60SN transmission. This same transmission, with some minor variations, is used in a number of VW and Audi models. Rebuild parts kits and service manuals are available from transmission supply houses.
Here's the transmission service manual.
Click the image to open in full size.
An online copy is here.
It's extremely detailed, with all schematics, electrical and hydraulic testing parameters, and step-by-step tear down, inspection, rebuild and reassembly instructions. This one is 124 pages long. You'd be a fool to attempt this without a hardcopy of the manual handy where you can get it greasy (about $30).
Here's a good exploded view of the transmission: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.co...f/AWTF60SN.pdf
Valve body failures are common, and most early failures can be cured (if caught in time) with a valve body replacement. This can be done without removing the transmission from the car. Frank at RevMax is a valve body guru and can talk through the symptoms you're having and determine if a valve body may fix resolve them, before you spend the money on one.
Beyond the valve body, a common problem (that I thought I had, but didn't) is that the K-2 clutch sleeve spins on the mount in the case. This restricts fluid flow and causes clutch failure. A replacement is made by Sonnax, and is recommended for ALL rebuilds to prevent future problems: K-2 Clutch Seal Ring Sleeve Kit - 15759-01K - Sonnax
Installation requires a 0.062" drill bit, I bought a couple from DigiKey for a few bucks.
Here's a supplier for the transmission parts (there are others):
VW 09M, 09G, Aisin TF60SN Transmission Parts Volkswagon / Audi
The best actual rebuild kits are made by TransTec and resold by Macko and others. Some folks may sell less extensive kits, hold out for the TransTec kit if you can, this definitely has all the parts that the manual calls for.
I opted to buy the basic "overhaul" kit, and add all friction plates, and also replace a couple of sets of worn steels (the K-2 and B-1, I think) based on what I found in the tear-down. They offer some kits that claim to include all the friction plates also, but the manual says that numbers of plates vary by transmission variant, and I didn't want to risk getting the wrong number of plates. The overhaul kit actually contains all the seals and filters for the valve body also, which I didn't need. But there's no practical way to get all the things I DID need without buying the full kit. I spent about $500 on parts, but could have saved about $100 if I hadn't bought the Sonnax K-2 clutch sleeve (which, ultimately, I didn't need).
I also found a low-mileage torque converter on eBay and decided to swap that out while I have it apart. There are rebuilt torque converters available for the VW\Audi, but those have the starter gear welded to the converter shell; I don't know if they're interchangeable with the MINI OEM one. The used TC was $350. That, plus the $750 or so I spent on the valve body, and fluid, and the total job will cost me about $1700. Not cheap, but better than a $3500 used transmission with no warranty, or $3000-$5000 for a shop to do the full job. You can save some money by doing the valve body rebuild yourself; you'll need a rebuild kit that includes bonded pistons.
Read more: http://www.*********************/for...#ixzz3H5JulSNo
Many shops won't touch these, apparently. And, when they do, it's crazy expensive. There's really nothing special about the transmission itself. There are no "hard parts" available (nor do they typically need any), but service kits are readily available. The biggest deal is that the engine must be pulled to get to the transmission. If you're not up to doing the transmission rebuild yourself, and you have problems finding a transmission shop that will work on MINIs, you may find a shop that will do the actual rebuild, if you or a friend or a MINI-capable mechanic can do the engine work and just bring the shop the transmission, off the car. Investigate this option if you think it may fit your situation. Some shops may do that, some may not.
The rebuild:
Luckily, the MINI automatic transmission isn't the mystery that it was a few years ago.
All automatic MINIs except 1st gen CVTs use the Aisin TF-60SN transmission. This same transmission, with some minor variations, is used in a number of VW and Audi models. Rebuild parts kits and service manuals are available from transmission supply houses.
Here's the transmission service manual.
Click the image to open in full size.
An online copy is here.
It's extremely detailed, with all schematics, electrical and hydraulic testing parameters, and step-by-step tear down, inspection, rebuild and reassembly instructions. This one is 124 pages long. You'd be a fool to attempt this without a hardcopy of the manual handy where you can get it greasy (about $30).
Here's a good exploded view of the transmission: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.co...f/AWTF60SN.pdf
Valve body failures are common, and most early failures can be cured (if caught in time) with a valve body replacement. This can be done without removing the transmission from the car. Frank at RevMax is a valve body guru and can talk through the symptoms you're having and determine if a valve body may fix resolve them, before you spend the money on one.
Beyond the valve body, a common problem (that I thought I had, but didn't) is that the K-2 clutch sleeve spins on the mount in the case. This restricts fluid flow and causes clutch failure. A replacement is made by Sonnax, and is recommended for ALL rebuilds to prevent future problems: K-2 Clutch Seal Ring Sleeve Kit - 15759-01K - Sonnax
Installation requires a 0.062" drill bit, I bought a couple from DigiKey for a few bucks.
Here's a supplier for the transmission parts (there are others):
VW 09M, 09G, Aisin TF60SN Transmission Parts Volkswagon / Audi
The best actual rebuild kits are made by TransTec and resold by Macko and others. Some folks may sell less extensive kits, hold out for the TransTec kit if you can, this definitely has all the parts that the manual calls for.
I opted to buy the basic "overhaul" kit, and add all friction plates, and also replace a couple of sets of worn steels (the K-2 and B-1, I think) based on what I found in the tear-down. They offer some kits that claim to include all the friction plates also, but the manual says that numbers of plates vary by transmission variant, and I didn't want to risk getting the wrong number of plates. The overhaul kit actually contains all the seals and filters for the valve body also, which I didn't need. But there's no practical way to get all the things I DID need without buying the full kit. I spent about $500 on parts, but could have saved about $100 if I hadn't bought the Sonnax K-2 clutch sleeve (which, ultimately, I didn't need).
I also found a low-mileage torque converter on eBay and decided to swap that out while I have it apart. There are rebuilt torque converters available for the VW\Audi, but those have the starter gear welded to the converter shell; I don't know if they're interchangeable with the MINI OEM one. The used TC was $350. That, plus the $750 or so I spent on the valve body, and fluid, and the total job will cost me about $1700. Not cheap, but better than a $3500 used transmission with no warranty, or $3000-$5000 for a shop to do the full job. You can save some money by doing the valve body rebuild yourself; you'll need a rebuild kit that includes bonded pistons.
Read more: http://www.*********************/for...#ixzz3H5JulSNo
#22
10-24-2014, 10:37 AM
#23
10-24-2014, 10:39 AM
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#24
10-24-2014, 10:47 AM
he end of the axle had gotten so hot the metal was purple blue...
The tranny spindle seal was hard, cracked and chewed up.
The tranny spindle seal was hard, cracked and chewed up.
if you search for the thread i left a bit from...you can see what you would deal with WITHOUT replacing broken metal...
