Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Burger Motorsports (BMS) Tune(s)

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  #2451  
Old 10-08-2015, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
For the B48 models (and B38 models!) we have a different tuner. Same great results and fairly similar install, but it's a different unit.
I'm a little confused. I thought the R60 Countryman had the N18 engine? Did it change for 2016?
 
  #2452  
Old 10-08-2015, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by SoCalledFriend
I'm a little confused. I thought the R60 Countryman had the N18 engine? Did it change for 2016?
R60 should still work, he misread I believe.
 
  #2453  
Old 10-09-2015, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Minnie.the.Moocher
R60 should still work, he misread I believe.
Sorry, got my models mixed up.
 
  #2454  
Old 10-25-2015, 06:18 PM
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New to me 2013 JCW

Would like to hear from Terry at Burger Tuning on this just to get it straight from the engineer.
I took my Burger JB+ off my 2012 Cooper S and put it on the 2013 JCW. Is there anything else I need to be doing with the settings. I buy only ethanol free 91 octane here in northern Wisconsin. It worked great on the "S".
 

Last edited by gapl1953; 10-25-2015 at 06:24 PM.
  #2455  
Old 10-25-2015, 06:37 PM
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Interested in the same application and look forward to hearing from Terry.
Originally Posted by gapl1953
Would like to hear from Terry at Burger Tuning on this just to get it straight from the engineer.
I took my Burger JB+ off my 2012 Cooper S and put it on the 2013 JCW. Is there anything else I need to be doing with the settings. I buy only ethanol free 91 octane here in northern Wisconsin. It worked great on the "S".
 
  #2456  
Old 11-02-2015, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Terry @ BMS
Was able to get out to my private track tonight for a handful of 1/4 mile pulls. Running ~94 octane. Times are measured using a GPS performance box system and a 3rd party verification software. Had a difficult time launching but managed a decent 14.2@100mph. I'm sure it has high 13s in it with a better start.
This makes the '15 JCW's stock power numbers look even more disappointing. BMS

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...op-test-review Come on MINI!
 

Last edited by MiniSkoon; 11-03-2015 at 05:18 AM. Reason: wrong link
  #2457  
Old 01-01-2016, 09:09 PM
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For sale bms jb+ only 2months old. Sold car and took off. For n18 $225 or best offer shipped
 

Last edited by larmini; 01-03-2016 at 11:49 AM.
  #2458  
Old 01-04-2016, 07:43 AM
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from Chile
cooper s 2012
downpipe catless evolve
91 aki shell v-power
1 bottle gumout octaner booster
70%dial
very fun

 
  #2459  
Old 07-21-2016, 08:46 AM
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Hi there, I just bought a 2012 Mini Cooper Countryman S, I don't see 2012 countryman on your list, can I still install the JB+ ? Would that be a problem ? And would you suggest to leave the settings at default ?

Thanks





Originally Posted by jomama
JB+ Guidelines (credit to cerenkov for putting this together for the community)

Website: http://www.burgertuning.com/Mini_Coo...nce_tuner.html

Install Instructions: http://www.burgertuning.com/instruct...ini_jbplus.pdf

The JB+ comes preset at 50% and generally should not be changed for normal N18 motors using good quality pump gas. Those running higher boost tuning from the factory such as the JCW package, or those using exceptionally poor fuels, such as 90 octane or lower, should reduce the dial to 30-40%. Conversely if monitoring boost and timing using a BMS CAN Tool or similar deivce the dial may be adjusted up on higher grade fuels such as race gas, E85 mixtures, or methanol.

Recommended settings:

Cooper S N18 – 92 Octane pump gas (AKI) – 50% or lower
Cooper JCW N18 – 92 Octane pump gas (AKI) – 40% or lower

The following are guidelines and are not endorsed by BMS. Follow at your own risk:

What to look for when monitoring timing and boost:

For timing, look for repeated 3 degree step reductions, this is indication of timing be retarded and the motor may be experiencing pre-detonation. Octane should be increased or the dial decreased.
NOTE: Timing is measured only at Cylinder #1, so not seeing 3 degree reductions via the CAN tool does not necessarily mean that pre-detonation in other cylinders is not occurring.

Since the DME works based off of engine load (and not just boost), as ambient temperatures increase so does the possibility of pre-detonation. Monitor timing and boost as seasons change. Remember cold weather is your friend. NOTE: Your peak boost will be noticeably higher in warmer temperatures, but your car will feel every bit as strong at lower boost in cooler temperatures, if not stronger.

When monitoring boost be cautious of readings consistently over 18 psi.


********


i figure i'd start a new thread here for BMS tunes as the N18 thread is getting a bit long and overly dominated, as of late, by BMS information. i hope none of the earlier (than me) adopters mind that i've taken on this endeavor.

the days leading up to my getting the JB+, i hooked up my garmin ecoroute to see what kind of boost i was running. it was pretty clear that the car was topping out at 13psi. i'm not sure what overboost is, or if i ever got into overboost, but i didn't see anything over 13psi.

so i drove up to Terry in Simi Valley last thursday to get the beta version of the JB+ installed. as i mentioned in the other thread, this install took less than a minute. Terry also hooked up the CAN tool. he did a quick scan for any stored codes, which there were none, and we were off and running. btw, the CAN tool does an initial gauge sweep. you can also play around with the settings to have different readings come up on the center speedometer and candy corn fuel gauge lights (boost, afr, iat, timing advance, and throttle). you can also read/erase codes withthe CAN tool, so it's a pretty nifty and useful piece of equipment to have.

so in the initial drive, Terry ripped up and down the street a few times to see what kind of boost my mini was putting out (topped out at just a touch over 16psi), and to make sure nothing funky was happening. i couldn't tell from the passenger seat if the car was faster, or if it was just a result of a heavy foot - i drive pretty modest speeds/accelerations. =) after a couple of times up and down the street, and a little bit of chatting, Terry sent me on my way.

my initial thoughts were, alright, this is faster, but i'm not sure i'm feeling the same pull that people have been raving about. but then i realized that Terry had mentioned an adjustment period. quite frankly, i think there's a driver's adjustment period as well. not sure if it's all in my head, but it didn't feel like boost came on the same way as it did pre-tune, but when it came on, it CAME ON!

it really wasn't until the next day when i was driving w/o the wife that i got the full effect of the JB+. we drove about 30 mins out to pick up our new car and i told her she can enjoy the new wheels and i'll take the mini out for a rip. after she left the dealership, i had my sales associate hop in for a ride. his daily drive is an S5 and he was mightily impressed with how peppy my mini was - man-sized gokart is about as accurate as a description as one can give it. i hopped back on the freeway and headed on home, and boy was that drive back fun! i felt like the JB+ makes the mini chug along just a bit deeper into the higher rpm range, which is nice! add that to the nice hard pull once the car's in boost and you have some significant performance improvements. it's also fun to see the dials/lights dance around when you're in boost!

i've been enjoying the mini enough that i don't mind that the wife's been taking the new car to work in our first week of ownership, haha! kudos to Terry for putting together the JB+, and doing so quite quickly! hopefully, for the sake of those not in socal, the JB+ will be tried and trued shortly, and made available to you all! i'm also pretty excited to see what else Terry has in store!
 
  #2460  
Old 11-25-2016, 06:51 AM
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Sorry if it's been asked but i'm buying a used JB+ and i want to set the settings correctly. How do i know if it's the old version or the new version?

I'm have a GP2 all stock with just a drop in AFE dry air filter. I have 93 octane all around me to use. What setting should i set it one old vs new
 
  #2461  
Old 11-25-2016, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by tech12
Sorry if it's been asked but i'm buying a used JB+ and i want to set the settings correctly. How do i know if it's the old version or the new version?

I'm have a GP2 all stock with just a drop in AFE dry air filter. I have 93 octane all around me to use. What setting should i set it one old vs new
As far as I know there are no settings to be done, you just plug it in...there are no further adjustments. If you're buying it new then you're getting the newest version in production.
 
  #2462  
Old 11-25-2016, 07:26 AM
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as the post stated i'm buying it used. You can actually open the jb+ up and there is a dial on there for adjusments
 
  #2463  
Old 11-25-2016, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by tech12
as the post stated i'm buying it used. You can actually open the jb+ up and there is a dial on there for adjusments
Oh, sorry about that, it's been awhile since I bought mine and I do recall talk about adjustments, but I also remember saying not to mess with it unless you're autocrossing or things of that nature, and only needs adjustment is your running like 100 octane. Otherwise you'll run into all kinds of drivability problems. I'm sure someone else will chime in and give you the exact answer you're looking for.

I just use mine as a DD and it's great the way it comes from Burger.
 
  #2464  
Old 11-25-2016, 08:38 AM
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Afaik the newer ones have a CARB sticker. The new one is also detuned compared to the original so full on is about 50% compared to the old one. Mariokart a vendor here reported that fake ones exist as well, so beware.

With all that in mind hard to say what settings will work. I had the original one and left it midway as received.
 
  #2465  
Old 11-25-2016, 09:51 AM
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attached is the photo that i have of it opened, i didnt see any carb sticker on it
 
Attached Thumbnails Burger Motorsports (BMS) Tune(s)-img_0494.jpg  
  #2466  
Old 11-25-2016, 10:04 AM
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That's probably the original one set at factory level. There is a thread somewhere on NAM with a photo of one without those rubber grommets which was the fake one as I recall.
 
  #2467  
Old 12-05-2016, 10:28 AM
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The JB+ was a nice little upgrade, it was set @ 50%. I had it on for about a week and then I got a P0171 code (running lean) i cleared the coded and then it came on later that day, running 93 octane. So i've removed it drove it around for a few days and everything seems fine. I'm going to dial it to 40% and see it that helps
 
  #2468  
Old 12-05-2016, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by tech12
The JB+ was a nice little upgrade, it was set @ 50%. I had it on for about a week and then I got a P0171 code (running lean) i cleared the coded and then it came on later that day, running 93 octane. So i've removed it drove it around for a few days and everything seems fine. I'm going to dial it to 40% and see it that helps
what year is your car? might be the HPFP going.
 
  #2469  
Old 12-05-2016, 05:25 PM
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2013 gp2
 
  #2470  
Old 12-05-2016, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by tech12
2013 gp2
probably not, but you never know with these cars :( With the JCW/GP2 it is recommended to dial it back a bit so hope that clears it up!
 
  #2471  
Old 12-07-2016, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by tech12
The JB+ was a nice little upgrade, it was set @ 50%. I had it on for about a week and then I got a P0171 code (running lean) i cleared the coded and then it came on later that day, running 93 octane. So i've removed it drove it around for a few days and everything seems fine. I'm going to dial it to 40% and see it that helps
Mine is set at 40% and runs without a problem with 91 octane fuel here in Colorado.
 
  #2472  
Old 12-10-2016, 02:58 AM
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I recently bought a used JB+. LOVE it. I can see this little black box making me spend even more money on the car.

Question: How do I know if it is a first Gen or second Gen unit? Is there any telltale sign? I use DashCommand, and I would consistently boost ~10psi before installing it, and now I'm seeing a consistent ~15psi. The inside dial is set to ~50%.

Second question: What exactly does this thing do to the MAF signal to tick the ECU to delivering more boost? I'm not asking for the precise calculation, but a good explanation of what is going on. Doesn't the MAF sensor only report some temperature and flow to the ECU? How does that override the ECU boost map? The engineer in me wants more information!
 
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