randeez..Yes Both cat's deleted to a Magnaflow Muffler..

 

Mike and I met up earlier
Only thing that stood out to me was the AFRs, they stayed real close to 14.
With tune - without tune, no matter the rpm, wot, etc. After letting off the afr would go up, but never much lower than 14.
Fuel rail pressure was good 1000 idle to 1900+
Does choke up at around 4k with tune
Talking more, his car has never been walnut blasted. I havent owned an n14, so I don't know how bad the carbon build up effects them

 

The carbon buildup full affect performance at the upper ends and cosmos firing an amazing difference in performance once it's done

 

My car had some hesitation when matting the car in the higher rpm range in 2-6th gear before I had them blasted. After I did it, the car woke up and changed the tune to stg 3 and its been fine since.
This is what mine looked like at 69k

 

randeez thanks for meeting up I appreciate it. Aft we did a run I downloaded stage 2
And with the sport button off drove a little better and went for an hr drive north to Stuart FL..All went well but in 5th and 6th if I'm lower than 4000rpms say cruising at 80
I then go to step on it and it will delay and cough at 4000 Maybe I need to keep the rpm's up and when I need to step on it at 80 downshift for a period of time to get past the 4000rpm threshold ..I'm thinking maybe it's my driving and learning all over to drive the damn thing with new found power...Randeez you Mini has serious Pull Nicely done..
Walnut blast will prob do wonders...I would rather do it myself and save the money for a valve cover....

NeonLed did you have someone do the Blast for you or did you do it yourself? If you did it yourself maybe I can cruise to Bradenton and you can supervise while I do the Blast...My biggest concern is and this maybe a dumb question but here it is...
When the car is shut off... Are all the Valves at there highest position? Maybe I'm getting Pistons and Valves mixed up..I used to do the timing belts on MY Audi TT and the cyc 1-2-3-4 firing range...and cycl one had to be at a certain height to set the timing.

I maybe answering this question myself...So anyone...So all valves are closed when engine is off..seems to me they are but I want to make sure and not fill my engine block up with walnut shells...

 

When it coughs, do you get a puff of black smoke out the exhaust? When I took my car to the track this year, I got a full throttle, 5000 rpm stumble that puked out black smoke. After a few times, the car ran better than ever. the old 'Italian tune up'.


I never wanted to tackle the walnut blasting myself because of the concerns that you describe. Others have done it, look for a 'how to' thread on this. I had it done at my local dealer, they charged me like $370 to do it.


You can pull off the intake and look in the ports to confirm how bad they look, just get a mirror and light to look down the ports. All of the gaskets are reusable on the intake, its about a 30-45 minute job.


Mike

 

iirc the engine will have two cyls with intake valves closed at a time (one on compression, other on exhaust) you can do those two at the same time - rotate engine do the other two.
the engine will be where it quits rotating when you shut it off, youll need to rotate it (by hand) until a pair of them is in place.
Before i pulled my intake manifold off I bought about everything to do mine (expecting to) but mine wasnt to bad at all so i didnt bother. I returned what i had bought - the blaster and shell from harbor freight is like $80, I think you can buy the wand for about $50 or build something for ~$20. You'll just need a compressor if youre up for doing it yourself, you're more than welcome to borrow the angle piece

If you can swing doing the valve cover at the same time, you'd be able to just look at the valves/cam and see when the valves are closed (up)

and thanks! my mini is getting there, retune and new clutch and i will be happy ....but with clutch i may as well do lsd... after that brakes..meth.... fml

 

Are you sure you're not getting oil blow by? Before an OCC I'd get it on Stage 3 map.

 

he's well over 100k, and pretty sure its never been done

 

Ok..answered myself on the valve open closed scenario...seems easy enough...
I have the compressor and I will get the walnut shells..Ok..I plan on doing this over the Christmas Holiday...New valve cover...Walnut Blast...and while I'm at it I'm installing a Cravenspeed Intake Manifold Spacer.. and New Valve cover...
I'm going to get this BEOTCH!! Running Right One way or Another...
Oh! and change out to high performance Coil Packs..Bavarian Motorsport...
And Way Motors Performance Diverter valve..Looks Like Christmas is all about me This Year!!

New one...I was asked by Randeez how my air filter was...and I said prob needs to be changed...
I stop at Pep-Boys local parts store buy a new filter and BOOM!..No more 4000rpm cough and choke....
After all this....Freakin Crazy....still going to change out go fast bits..But who the hell would have thunk it...
A Freakin Air Filter....The old one was so bad it was coming off the alum frame of the cone filter...lol

 

Lol they always need something but atleast you can enjoy it in the mean time!

 

I didnt do it myself. I went to this guy( http://www.qualitydrivensrq.com/about-us/) he charged me $300 for the job, took him about 4-5 hours since my valves where pretty coated.

 

I still say F the kids buy mini parts

So the problem was...... to much air, or was the old one restrictive?

 

Well Randy it's back but not as bad..So I'm truly thinking it has to to with the air intake but I think you looked at the air fuel ratio when we did a run...
So It's drive-able in the morning seeing it's cooler out...and I can get past the 4000
now it kicks back when in a lower gear gear it possibly could be my driving...
Paddle shifting a little different because it will downshift on its own and if not up to speed it will not down shift till coming to a stop therefore I need to start downshifting and get into higher rpms...But Walnut Blast is def in order...Neonled I'm giving your guy a call its worth the drive to Sarasota for $300 if he can do for $300

 

I have heard some post in this thread(read and search) about problems with the Accesport tunes with automatics.

 

Coach, I used to drive with the auto in sport mode sometimes (just push the shift lever to the left, but don't move it up or down). It will still shift up and down in automatic, but it shifts at higher RPM's and engine-brakes on downshift. Maybe try this for something different, see if the car likes it until you get your blasting done. Carbon cleaning made a noticeable difference on my car when I had it done.


Sstrickstein, some of the early AP maps shifted very roughly. Alta worked on the maps and got things shifting well. I really liked the AP on my 08 auto, ran the same tune for several years. If you are having issues with shifting, reach out here and someone can email you a tune that should help.


Have fun,
Mike

 

mbwicz....I use the sport mode in local traffic...on Highway I take sport mode out...I use the paddle shifters and watch my RPM's...

I may try just in automatic no paddle shifting with sport mode on and and off and see if that changes...Pedal really hard and slow without sport mode..really tuff to get used too
Who can e-mail me a smoother a tune? For the AP? Anyone?

Gave it serious hell this morning at around 5am on my way to work on I-95 south cooler air meaning like no humidity here in South Florida so cool to us is like 65-70...an older Mitsubishi was trying to keep up at around 105mph..Thinking knock some moth's out this R56...That early in the am not much traffic so was nice...
Ran smooth and at 105mph was impressed prob had more but a certain stretch there is no on off ramps and no street lights and very smooth..

I thought this AP would delete the Check engine light? and the dreaded airbag light...can't seem to locate that on the port...anyone?

 

I'm not a big fan of the sport button, the throttle was too twitchy for me with the AP. But if you move the shifter to the left it still puts the trans in sport mode, but the throttle and steering remain in 'standard mode'.


PM me your email, I've got stage 1 maps from my old car, 92 octane with and without FMIC. I'll send them to you tonight.


I think that the AP will read the codes for your CEL, not sure about suppressing the airbag light. The last thing that happens when you update the tune is it resets the CEL's, so it seems odd to me that you get one. Maybe there really is an issue with a sensor or something?


I'm glad you had a chance to give it an Italian Tune Up this morning, it probably did clean things out a little.


Have fun,
Mike

 

mbwiz ok sending you a pm...

 

mbwicz..Italian Tune Up..thats funny...But I'm Polish and Irish...

 

mbwicz...Unreal the thing runs like a bat out of hell I can red line and shift...
You my Friend are an R56 WIZARD...I wish I knew what the problem is with the tunes Cobb has on my Accessport they simply do not work...I e-mailed you with thanks as well
Your the man thanks so much...
Your in Buffalo...**** come on down to South Florida and I will put you up as long as you want...
The Invite is open....Bring the little women and stay and enjoy the sun and fun...
Can't thank you enough...Your the WIZARD...

 

Hey mike are the tunes you have different than the canned tunes, my ap is causing me night terrors at this point

Thanks !

 

yo Drowning...not sure what you mean by canned tune? Cobb set the tunes when I bought it...stages 1-2 and three..what do you mean by givin you fits?
espalin yourself Lucy...maybe someone on here can help..this is my first mini coming from the Audi scene...what is it exactly doing? The accessport or something else..

 

The canned tunes (the 'generic' tunes loaded on the AP) for automatic used to be horrible shifting (instant regret on the purchase). That was the biggest improvement in the tunes that Alta sent me, smooth shifting.

The AP is sensitive to exhaust, I remember reading that it was common to get boost cut if you tried running stage 2 or 3 with stock exhaust, that is why I stuck with stage 1. I was really happy with this on my car, a great boost in midrange power, better throttle response, and a driveable tune.

If you have an auto, PM me your email and I'll send you the tunes I had. 92 octane.

Mike

 

I have searched through the forums and looked around but I can not seem to find an answer to this.
Can the AP be left plugged into the OBD port? I know that the newer units have a setting for auto on/off but I don't see one for the Alta AP and I would just rather lead it plugged in as I use the information that it provides nearly every day.
any insight would be awesome.