Some owners like the pedal feel of the stock brakelines and don't want to change them- while others like the Stainless steel lines' slightly firmer feel.
When changing brake lines it's good to upgrade/replace brake fluid and bleed system. I think the labor to install brake lines would be more than to install stiffeners.

Brake caliper stiffening doesn't require changing brake fluid but helps you make better use of your brake pads when they contact the rotor- this helps with a solid braking response and works with any combo of pads and rotors.

This tyrolsport brake caliper stiffening kit is also offered by Helix13.com for $119 and stainless steel snaprings are optional.

 

I've had mine in for 3 months now and two track events. After last weeks event, I'm getting alot of rattling from the front calipers. I havn't had a chance to pull the wheels and check the bushings yet, but I have heard (read somewhere) that the bronze bushings can wear pretty quickley. Can anybody offer more insight!

FWIW, the Tyrol bushings, SS lines, Feredo 2500s and ATE fluid worked great at Lime Rock both days. No fade and a "good" pedal....

Cheers,

 

Change in pedal feel isn't subtle. SS lines firm it up, stiffener kit takes it a notch further. I have both installed... feel & foot pressure/position changed substancially - obvious from the first moment you brake, but most change needed for heel/toe.

FYI the stiffener kit is a snap to install. Plan maybe an hour for the stiffeners (all 4 wheels), once you've got the car on jack stands.

The brake lines are a PITA! Not the easiest places to fit a wrench/toruqe wrench - esp. the rear end. Read a how to if you can find one & make sure you have the correct wrenches (crow's foot socket or similar) & torque wrenches.

Plan on a couple hours for the lines/bleed. Speed bleeders are a good mod to do at the same time as the lines - will save time/hassle when you're done installing the lines & its time to bleed.

 

Morefun, please let us now what you find. As someone who does 4-5 track days a month, quick wear would be a concern. Anyone else experience this rattling?

 

and sold them when I went to a BBK. I still have them in the rear. There was a little surface finish change on the SS from metal on metal wear, but there wasn't any really noticable difference in the bushings. I didn't measure them though....
I did three track days on the set, and mayby 8-10 thousand miles total driving. No rattle either.... Maybe they need grease?

As for what to do first, I'd say go with the bushings if you have to make a choice. That's because better use of the pads will do more to lower temps than upgraded lines will do to deal with the heat.... Like the poster said before, the bushings will help whatever combo you have for brakes, as long as you stick with the stock calipers!

Matt

 

I've had no issues with mine - including autocrossing in Texas summers at 100+ degrees ambient. Ditto for the track... I do take mine out frequently and re-lube them with anti-seize though!

 

 

I did this mod today. Long story short, I ordered the frieking kit from Harbor Tools only to leave it in my apt (installed at my fiancee's house with a driveway).

The only reason I'd need the kit was because I was installing new rotors as well. I had minute cracks in mine (crossed drilled and slotted) after about 16000 miles....

Anyhooooo, I can't really tell a difference right now....as I didn't really get on the brakes that hard since I wanted to avoid glazing them....

However, after driving around the block a few times, I came back and saw pad material (brown from the EBC's) on my rotors! I think I may have glazed them....again!

Pedal feel is about the same, I guess I would have had a better idea of how much of a difference these really make had I not changed my rotors...but overall, yeah, it feels the same.

I did not push my rotors back in as I was using the same pads and had no problem getting the calipers back on. Only after putting everything together did I realize that the new rotrs would be every so slightly thicker than the old ones (I'm guessing 1mm max) so I probably should have pushed the pistons back in theoretically....

I'll wait about 5000 miles before I post a review, just in case I have any kinds that need to be worked out.

And to the guy that posted the pic, from what other people have said, I hope you ended up greasing up your bushings cuz mine are definitely covered in grease......Yours, on the other hand, look squeaky clean!

I'm going to take a pic of my rotors with the brown "stains" on 'em...I sure hope they are not glazed.....Eric down at Helix told me that glazed rotors have a slightly bluish tint to them...I did not see this tint....

The install took a lot longer than I thought actually....It took me over 4 hours to do this.... I spent quite a bit of time trying to get the 16mm bolt off that holds the front calipers in.... and I was pretty **** about greasing up all the bolts....ended up greasing the 16mm bolts, the 17mm lug nuts, the torx bolt that holds the caliper in, the back of the pads, the rim of the front pistons, surface of the rears....

I'm super tired, sorry for the rambling.

 

While I'm sure LordOfTheFlies gave his honest evaluation, I would like to offer a "Counter Point" Being a nearly 35 year member of SCCA, I have raced many various types of vehicles from big V-8 Sedans to Showroom Stock (in the middle includes G/P, F/P and B-Sedan) Prior to installing the Brake Stiff. Mod, I had already about 10K miles on StopTech SS brake lines, EBC Green Pads and ATE brake fluid. After doing this mod, as soon as my foot touched the brake peddle, I could feel the difference. Big Difference??? Nooo, but noticable and worth the effort and cost. In MHO of course

 

I already had aftermarket rotors, pads, stainless steel lines, and fluid....so maybe I would have noticed a bigger difference had I just gone from bone stock to upgraded bushings....But maybe after a few hundred miles I'll feel it a bit more....(got to brake in the new rotors, no pun intended)

 

Ok after only a few hundred miles, I feel al difference now in the pedals...Much firmer, though I still don't think my pads have broken in just yet.

Quick question regarding these crazy c-rings (snap ring?).

Is this the correct tool one should purchase to install these buggers?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3316

What a PITA it was to install them by hand......

 

I installed my set from Turner in the rear and they look/feel great Fronts are Stoptech:smile:

 

Those snap ring pliers should work fine. I'd imagine trying to install w/o proper pliers would be a *****.

 

Dude. They were the ultimate PITA.

I was exhausted from doing both the rotors and the bushings that by the last wheel I was almost unable to get the ring on. I had to jimmy it using a screwdriver. Going forward, I will suggest that people get a set of snap ring pliers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Fond memories guys! I too was minus these pliers as I couldn't find mine...

With a very small screwdriver, and needlenose pliers, I got those bastards in place. All-in-all, it was just an extra 10 or so minutes a wheel, but it was a pia...

 

Sort of off topic but that's like trying to reuse the OEM hose clamps? I gave up and bought some new ones.

BTW, they just had a sale on the caliper disk tool at Harbor Freight. I missed it at $19.95..

Another off topic statement/question. TonyB, how are your wilwoods? I was pming todd about a set. TIA, for any info.

 

Thread back from the dead....

MSFIT,

So that means if you have a front BBK you don't need the stiffeners in the front correct? Since the BBK will replace it?

 

That's correct:smile:

 

No, as long as you don't open them so much they get all bent, they are reusable. Also, don't pay the extra for SS from Tyrol or others, they're about a quarter each at a fastener store... With the right tool, they're a snap!

Matt

 

Since the bushings are sold per axle, is there any reason why you couldn't just do it on the fronts, where most of the brake force is anyways, and leave the rears stock? I'm thinking of doing this mod as well, just curious.

 

Some of the braking is done with the rears, might as well help them out as well. Also, I think the better geometry will give you longer pad life..... I've had mine on for quite a while with no issues at all.

Matt

 

Also, with modern cars running EBD you have to remember that there is alot more rear bias then most people think. The MINI seems to have alot of rear brake bias and waaay too much ABS interaction waaay too soon.

 

Also, it seems that when one runs with DSC on, the rears get a harder work-out, as opposed to the fronts, or at least more so than when DSC is off. After reading a few threads on brake pad wear, I recall a few folks commenting along those lines...

 

The old saying comes to mind:

If you're going to do it, you might as well do it right.

 

Well said.... well said