In response to a nearby message about Mintex "Red Box" brakes squealing:

What is the "proper" way to do initial brake bedding-in? When I installed my Ferodo 2500s, I was told to get them really hot through extended braking initially (I forget the exact sequence, something like 10 consecutive 50% of max braking, 10 consecutive 75% braking and then 1 HARD BRAKE, then attempting no braking for 15 minutes to let them cool). I am going to put on some Mintex "Red Box" brakes for my daily driving, and there are instructions warning against any hard braking or "panic stopping" for the first 200 miles that they're on the car. This is the exact opposite of the Ferodo directions.

Does any one who is significantly experienced in brakes know the real proper way to go about this??

(I'm putting them on tomorrow, so I'd appreciate the most rapid response that you might have! )

 

How's it going? try looking at EBC web site on pad bedding process, might also
try the mintex web site good luck.

 

just drive the dragon and then let them cool over night. mine feel better at 21k than they ever have!

 

Ha! Uh...thanks...

A quick google search gives all kinds of advice, most of it similar in nature. Get the brakes warmed up by lightly dragging them for a bit or just through normal stop and go driving. Once up to operating temp, get them really hot, using several medium pressure drops back-to-back: like 45-5 mph maybe half a dozen times, then finally, do a major brake almost to the ABS threshold from 60-5 mph or even 80-5 mph, depending on the compound. Finally, after getting them nice and hot (and probably smelly), let them cool for 10-20 minutes. And no hard braking for at least 200 miles.

So, can anyone confirm why Mintex does not recommend ANY bedding in procedures? Also, should I sand the rotors first (as Alex from the Tire Rack recommends?)

Thanks!

 

I would check directly with each manufacture - the should be able to provide the data - not all pads break in the same - for instance, what you do to bed a Hawk pad will destroy an EBC green.

Its not required that you resurface the rotors.
When you have a friction material on a cast iron rotor, its recomened to remove that transfer film,and return the cross hatch.

This condition helps the new pad's transfer film build up quickly.

If your replacing the same pads that are on the car, and your rotors do not show wear, you can drop new pads on w/o a resurfact as the friction material is the same family.

If your changing pads and do not cut the rotor film, your new transfer film will develop 3-4 times slower - and may be rather noisy untill fully seated

Alex