Well I finally got all my stuff together to install ss brake lines, new rotors, pads brass caliper pins, etc. A "real" brake job.
I have of course run into a few problems. The torx bolts on the front rotors stripped right out, I will have to drill & easy out them. Sucks.

But my main issue is I spent all that money on brass caliper pins only to find out the car already had them!

I bought the car in maybe like '06 with 32K miles on them. Mini replaced rotors & calipers under warranty at 35,985 miles, so I suspect these had been on prior to that. I have replaced pads twice since then and to be honest I never noticed, since I had no reason to suspect they were anything other than stock.

The NEW pins I just got from Detroit Tuned are just a little bit (a few millimeters) longer than what is already on it, so I am not sure they are correct replacements. Are they supposed to "float"?
The rear pins are corroded into place (I guess they do require more maintenance, too late) and I guess I will have to press them out.
So overall, I have bitten off more than I really wanted to chew, but lord knows what would happen at a chain brake place.

 

What you want for getting those out is an impact driver set.
Such as an Impact Driver SetKD Tools KDT1140 3/8in. Impact Driver Set
That coupled with a proper hardened 3/8th socketed bit will get them right out without stripping.

I find myself using my impact driver quite frequently and could not do without it.

Heating with a torch will often expand the metal enough to get the pins out.

Proper tools to do the job!

Bob

 

Aye, I'm using my impact gun more and more. That and a little heat from a simple propane torch go a long way.

Years ago we would sometimes use brake fluid on rusty bolts/nuts. Particularly on exhaust manifolds. Soak em real good with brake fluid a day or so before, drive em like normal and then take em apart. Usually worked really good.

....Les

 

An impact driver and an impact gun are very different.
An impact driver works with a hammer blow to drive the allen, phillips, torx, slotted into the bolt/screw and it automatically also gives it a turn loosening or tightening .... thereby not letting it ride up and cause stripping. It is a nice controllable focused action.



Bob

 

The torx issue was an aside issue. Like I said, it sucks, but I owned an old sportster years ago & I have That crap down to a science. Still sucks. BTW, I had already pounded the hell out of it with my impact screwdriver. They are out.
My main question was and still is, how would these calipers have gotten the brass guides in them? I bought it one owner w/ original brakes at 32K miles.
I would just like to hear some plausible explanation. I will call Detroit Tune today and beg mercy to return the ones I just bought.
The front bushings fell right out once I removed the circlips, but the rear ones seemed to be either corroded past the point of removal or have been swaged in. I have used clamps to try & remove them, along with (mild, so far) heat. At this point, I do not really have any real reason to remove them since they were already what I wanted.
And besides the issue of the new bushings being longer worries me also.

 

if you put them in with the shoulder towards the rotor, the side with the circlip is to the outside. It seems to me the castings for the calipers very a bit, cause I've seen some real loose and some not so loose. Also, if you install them this way, if you loose the retainer clip, the bushing can't fall out.

I'd just clean it all up, lube it all up, and put it back together. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Matt

ps, if Chad won't take them back, they sell very quickly in the marketplace.

 

Thanks, doc.