I alternate the amber and super blue, it's easy, it's not that expensive, and 1 liter is way more than enough, so if there are any issues you've got plenty of extra fluid (came in handy when I was bleeding the brakes, got momentarily distracted by something else, had a brain fart, forgot that I still had a bleeder valve open and draining--fortunately it was still hooked up to a bleeder bottle--and proceeded to bleed the next caliper on the other side of the car, that extra fluid came in handy that day.).

You really don't want to save the extra fluid though, once you've opened the bottle, it has a relatively short shelf life--it can absorb water, etc. So if I have extra fluid after a bleed, I might bring it with me to use if I'm going to the track the next day, otherwise I I get rid of it.

 

cct1- sounds good.

blimey knows that im a griot's freak. wat do you guys think about this
extractor? i ask because it'll be cheaper for me to use this vs buying
the 0100 + 1107 (which is the 0107 nozzle) from Motive. plus i can
use the griot's one on virtually any car including my dd and a pos legacy.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...rrivals&page=1

 

Sounds like you need a BBK...

 

I have the "oil" version of that Griot's extractor... it's OK, and I suspect the brake version will work fine, also... the nice thing about the motive is that you hook up the big, pressurized piece ONCE... then just move around the small, easy to handle catch bottles to each caliper. With the Griots, you're moving the big pump around... it's a nit, but that's the primary functional difference. With the motive, it is VERY quick for me to go from caliper to caliper - literally 10 seconds to unhook the catch bottle from one, walk to the next, plug in the catch bottle and open the bleeder screw... it's very efficient like that...

I don't know how their "reservoir refill bottle" works - I looked and the pic, but it isn't obvious to me what you do with it...

 

You already said that in another thread...

To which I replied "Sell yours in red and we'll talk."

Seriously... I would rock a BDM in red...

 

You could always get the calipers painted red before fitting the BBK

 

yah, ive read on the motive if it leaks at the reservoir you'll have
a huge mess until the pressure goes down. with the mityvac (the griot's
one) it is a bit clumsy but you wont have that problem.

plus one of these will make it perfect. i wont have to walk
back to the front to check the level.

 

If the Mityvac replenishment thing leaks, you'll also have a problem...

As for the statement about the Motive leaking - if it does, it CAN make a mess... but the statement about "until the pressure goes down" is a bit misleading... you can release the pressure any time you like by loosening the screw-in pump on the bottle...

 

Yeah, you'd pretty much have to try to make a mess with the Motive bleeder, I've never come close to having a problem at the resevoir, just release the pressure on the bottle before you unscrew the cap off the resevoir, and there's no way you're going to have any leaking. It's at the caliper that you have to be careful....

 

Did you try threading one of the bleeder screws all the way out with the power bleeder on?

 

blimey- i see. yah, it wasn't me that experienced the problem but i
read about it so just wondered. makes sense that you can rid the
pressure by loosening the pump.

im sure that's why it even has a pressure gauge in the first place
right? to monitor the pressure for leaks.

 

yah, that would really suck regardless of the pump or the old method.

 

Where I get a mess is at the inner caliper. The outer caliper is a piece of cake, it's easy to get at with a wrench on the bleeder screw (I can leave the wrench on the screw and tubing on the nipple of the screw at the same time, so the outer caliper is a piece of cake, as long as I'm careful, I can do it without any leaking). It's the inner caliper that can make a mess (I have Wilwood dynapro's)--it's tougher to keep the tube on the nipple (not as much space to work, and the angle isn't so hot), and it's really tough to get the wrench and the tube on screw at the same time--I wish on the inner screw at least the nipple on the bleeder screw was just a little bit longer, so that there was a bit more distance between where the wrench goes on the bleeder screw and where the tubing attaches on the end of the bleeder screw. It's not impossible to do it without leaking fluid, but it's definitely more difficult, and I've made a mess on the inner caliper more times than I'd like to admit....

 

All you'll ever need. Save the big buck expense on "cool tools".

 

Need? True. But having done it both ways.... it's WAAAAAY easier and faster with the powerbleeder... especially if you don't have a helper...

 

I have about three of these and no helpers. It hasn't slowed me down any. Who needs a helper with a street car? The reservoir is higher than the caliper. On a race car it's more difficult as you need to pump the pedal to push the fluid up hill at times.

Really the only thing I have against such tools is the potential for aeration of the fluid by trying to force it too quickly. Call me old school I guess.

 

that's the one that i use. i think that you threw it in w/ my bbk and rear rotors.

 

I'm always happy to learn more tricks... when I try to gravity bleed, the fluid goes SOOOOOO SLOW.... just a tiny trickle... it would probably take 10-15 minutes per caliper (OEM) to bleed at the rate it's going... vs. maybe 2 minutes max per caliper with the powerbleeder... if there's a faster option (other than with a helper pumping the pedal and me on the bleeder screw each pump) that doesn't require the powerbleeder or a vacuum pump, I'm all ears... but, for me, 10-15 minutes total for a full bleed is preferable vs. 45-60 minutes total...