E-Brake Problems
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1st Gear
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 29
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From: Central N.J
E-Brake Problems
I just changed my break pads and disks front and back had nothing but problems. Striped 2 tork screws taking off the disks. Had to buy a tool to compress the rear calapers. Brakes are still a little soft gonna have to bleed them again. Get it all done and my e-brake catches really high and just grabs. Anyone have this problem? And what could it be?
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 143
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From: North Wales, Pa
The proper way of removing the screws would use a impact driver. Not a impact gun, but the tool that is struck with a hammer to loosen the screws.
I have not seen the Mini rear brakes, but from what I gather the parking brake is integral with the rear caliper. If this is the case the brake piston needs to be screwed into the caliper while pressure is being applied to the piston. Many car manufactures use this style for parking brakes (although I'm not fond of it for obvious reasons), the best way I know to adjust the rear brakes is with the brake pedal firmly depressed, yank up on the parking brake handle. You may have to do this a couple if times, and you should feel the parking brake get firmer. As for the spongy pedal, did you bed the pads in??
I have not seen the Mini rear brakes, but from what I gather the parking brake is integral with the rear caliper. If this is the case the brake piston needs to be screwed into the caliper while pressure is being applied to the piston. Many car manufactures use this style for parking brakes (although I'm not fond of it for obvious reasons), the best way I know to adjust the rear brakes is with the brake pedal firmly depressed, yank up on the parking brake handle. You may have to do this a couple if times, and you should feel the parking brake get firmer. As for the spongy pedal, did you bed the pads in??
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Central N.J
The proper way of removing the screws would use a impact driver. Not a impact gun, but the tool that is struck with a hammer to loosen the screws.
I have not seen the Mini rear brakes, but from what I gather the parking brake is integral with the rear caliper. If this is the case the brake piston needs to be screwed into the caliper while pressure is being applied to the piston. Many car manufactures use this style for parking brakes (although I'm not fond of it for obvious reasons), the best way I know to adjust the rear brakes is with the brake pedal firmly depressed, yank up on the parking brake handle. You may have to do this a couple if times, and you should feel the parking brake get firmer. As for the spongy pedal, did you bed the pads in??
I have not seen the Mini rear brakes, but from what I gather the parking brake is integral with the rear caliper. If this is the case the brake piston needs to be screwed into the caliper while pressure is being applied to the piston. Many car manufactures use this style for parking brakes (although I'm not fond of it for obvious reasons), the best way I know to adjust the rear brakes is with the brake pedal firmly depressed, yank up on the parking brake handle. You may have to do this a couple if times, and you should feel the parking brake get firmer. As for the spongy pedal, did you bed the pads in??
Exactly the same problem I'm having.
Parts installed:
BavAuto SS lines, front/rear
BavAuto brass caliper bushings/pins
ATE Super Blue fluid
TSW Carbon Rotors
Carbotech Bobcats
Lots o'grease, noise stuff, and antiseize
E-brake BARELY grabs, and very high, at that. Brake pedal goes almost completely to the floor - no signs of leakage, both with the wheels off checking each, or after driving about 30 miles - reservoir is at the same level.
Gonna try a pressure bleed today to see if there's still air all up in the hizzouse, but what about that e-brake pedal? And should I be able to modulate all the way to the floor? Seems a little far
Bedding - I followed the instructions provided, 60-20, repeated 4-5, cooled off, did it again - my brakes were SMOKING when I parked after the last bedding shot. Let the car for 4-5 hours, did the same thing again, just to be sure. Am I missing something?
Parts installed:
BavAuto SS lines, front/rear
BavAuto brass caliper bushings/pins
ATE Super Blue fluid
TSW Carbon Rotors
Carbotech Bobcats
Lots o'grease, noise stuff, and antiseize
E-brake BARELY grabs, and very high, at that. Brake pedal goes almost completely to the floor - no signs of leakage, both with the wheels off checking each, or after driving about 30 miles - reservoir is at the same level.
Gonna try a pressure bleed today to see if there's still air all up in the hizzouse, but what about that e-brake pedal? And should I be able to modulate all the way to the floor? Seems a little far
Bedding - I followed the instructions provided, 60-20, repeated 4-5, cooled off, did it again - my brakes were SMOKING when I parked after the last bedding shot. Let the car for 4-5 hours, did the same thing again, just to be sure. Am I missing something?
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