I will assume that you are trying to be funny with this comment. For those of you that don't understand the system concept let me try to explain it. A lot of the items we make work great on their own be it the DFIC or this new item ,the rear chassis brace system. The fact that we offer upgrades to make them even better is a plus not a "nickel and dime " minus. Take for example the DFIC. Not everyone is going to be willing or need to go to the extreme as to put a second scoop in the hood like some of you at AMVIV may have seen on my car to get the MOST out of the intercooler. No one HAS to do it to get good results but for those of you that might want the MOST benefit it is another option for you. The rear chassis brace is the same . In its base form as you see it , as others have already said ,it provides a benefit. For those who want to spend more, restrict rear access a bit more , but maximize the potential of a rear chassis brace system , an additional diagonal component will be offered. So in summation with many of our products we try to offer options. A good base item which will fulfill most enthusiasts needs but also offer upgrades / options for those that want to go as far as they can performance wise.

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

A bunch of years ago I used modified quick release mechanism from one of my racing bikes to hold the triangulated truss going to the rear of the car - 1989 Jetta 16V. since this was my wife's car, she needed to make room for groceries. A quick flip, and a little swearing at me, and and she had it off.

Twasn't the best way, but it definately made the rear box of the Jetta stiffer. Dropping the throttle to gain some rotation occured at speeds about 10mph higher. So rear grip increased, but the tossable nature of the car moved up a whole speed bracket making it a bit more of a panic to drive at the limit.

 

As a coordinator (from Fresno, no less) you should know better than to make cheap shots at any vendor unless they have clearly demonstrated a policy of doing what you profess M7 does. I have purchased M7 products for years and have NEVER felt nickeled or dimed.
Options are what they are - options. The auto industry runs off of the purchase and installations of "options." The entire aftermarket industry would not exist if not for "options."
Take a step outside and smell the defoliant for a break and rethink your approach to our vendors here on NAM.

Paul

 

Ya, Bad Chris!

Paul, I'm sure Chris was just joking. He has a number of m7's parts on his car which I have only heard praise about. Not that he needs any defending, but I'm just saying...

 

let's not get too worked up over someone that calls themself a putz...
there acting like a putz, fuggedabout 'em...

 

What do you think of the effect of this product for a cabrio? In the cabrio, the latches for the rear seat backs are on the roll bar (at #3 in the diagram).

 

We will have a cabrio version available very soon, but as you can see there's
fitment issues that needs to be worked out. We will have something by early summer. And the R56 version will follow the Cabrio version.

Peter
M7 Tuning
562-608-8123

 

Now this is a really great idea. Sad thing is if most people did not know it was carboard you'd see it praises all over the board. Some mods have a direct effect dollars spent = good effect.

 

I still think this product needs triangulation to be truely effective. If it is effective and steals space, it's effective. If it is ineffective but does not steal space, it is ineffective. Triangulation in at least two axis...

 

I'm really not sure, as I've never taken the Cabrio apart... If I get a chance to work on one, I could give you some thoughts on it.

In theory, the cabrio can use all the help it can get. This mod is most likeley more suited towards it.

 

Well first off this is a free form so I have the right just like everyone else to post. 2nd I was making fun of the guy for saying that he would have to spend more money to get the full effect of the brace. 3rd I always fill nickeled and dimed when I mod a car doesn't matter if its m7 or alta or whoever. Eveyone who mods cars knows its never as cheap or easy as it seems you know when you buy one thing you have to buy five other things to make that one thing work correctly.

That being said if i made a product that only 5000-10000 people would want I would nickel and dime too.

M7 does make great stuff and it works I myself have always felt like I got my moneys worth.

 

In that case it seems you were making fun of me. Well, first off, this is a free forum so I have the right just like everyone else to post. Second, M7 themselves state that this item is part of their system approach. Third, I did not say anything about being nickeled and dimmed. You did. I am glad you feel you got your moneys worth. I unfortunately didn't, but that is not a topic for this thread.

 

Oops! It seems foot-in-mouth disease has hit the Central Valley (Fresno).
I love this because this time (at least) it's not me that's embarassed himself.
Just more fun in this free forum.

Paul

 

DOES IT WORK OR NOT?? And can you add a cross in the square? So there is no question it will tighten it up.

 

Is there a roll cage that you don't have to drill holes in the car?

 

This not a criticism of any vendor. But they are essentially in the business of selling things, even if there is no valid science behind the product. People will buy things that look like they belong on a race car.

These strut bars (and even front bars) were designed to connect the left and right suspension components to control flex (movement) of the suspension mounting points.
All the rear suspension mounting points on a Mini are BELOW the floor level (control arm mounts, shocks etc.)...so how does this product or any other rear bar reinforce these areas?? For it to have any noticeable effect it would need to be bolted to those components and it would need to be triangulated. How does attaching something rectangular to the seatback attachment points reinforce the suspension and make the car handle better???

Have a look at how race cars build a roll cage!!! and how they reinforce the suspension points. Have a look at some of these pictures http://www.racingjunk.com/NASA-GTS-C...GTR-Clone.html.
Now that is a car that was well engineered. Race teams use every advantage allowed in the rule book.

I know this isn't a race part, but IMO these things are a waste of money.

Even front strut bars are a compromise. The truly affective front bars are those that are triangulated to the firewall. All others still allow movement of the two strut mounts, but at least they are tied together for some benefit.
http://www.dezod.com/prod_images_blowup/29-0009.jpg

Just my opinion, but I have built a few track cars.

 

Is there any bracing that you can install that you don't have to drill into the floor? And I don't want to compromise the car because the car will be driven on the street most of the time. I like things that are functional and look good. The M7 brace might make more sense if it had a "X" in the middle. Your thoughts?

 

What is the point of installing this brace??? What do you hope to accomplish??

The car is FWD the rear just follows around....the biggest problem with it is the rubber bushings that mount the rear trailing arms to the body. You get all kinds of toe change etc. when the rear wheels are loaded in cornering. Urethane bushings help with the issue but cause binding in compression...so no good answers for street use. For a track car..best bang for the buck is to replace the trailing arm bushings with spherical bearings.

If you want window dressing you can by any rear brace as the all have about the same effect--virtually zero.

 

So coilover shocks would be a better investment?

 

What are you looking to achieve?

 

We did testing with this and it just didn't work well enough to justify the cost and loss of being able to put anything in the back of the car.

If you want a rear brace we have a simple and cheap bolt in one that allows you to still leave the back seats in.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/aluminu...strut-bar.html

 

I have a 09' JCW better handling but not a harsh ride. The car will be driven mainly on the street. Its not my daily driver I'm trying to make it a bad *** machine. I have some mods. Intake, 3" down pipe back exhaust, hot side turbo pipe. I have a helix IC that will go in after the winter. Then I'm trying to figure out which tuner I'm going to use. If a deal comes along I was thinking coil overs. Not sure which would be the best. Not to harsh I'm not 20 yrs old.
And I'm not millionaire. So I'm always looking for deals on parts. Any suggestions you may have would be great. Thanks for taking the time. I really appreciate it.

 

1-Ditch the run flats ( if you know someone who has done this, see if you can swap wheels for a day) you will be surprised at the difference. Stick with 17" wheels--18's will make it feel like run flats all over. Try running 215/45/17
2-stay away from coilovers..IMO these really are for track use. Setting them up is critical to good handling and many people get lost in the setup process. Only go with these if you really must lower the car too much. Mini's don't benefit from a really low ride height because the suspension geometry goes to ****.
3-Find a good set of aftermarket shocks/spring (search the forum) there are some that really work well and help the ride. You can probably get a deal on some (lots of owners swap to coilovers and sell the really good setup)
4-larger adjustable rear sway bar--this will help the car turn in and you can play with the handling ( a little more towards oversteer works well, but you need to know how to drive it that way)
5-SIGN UP FOR A DRIVING SCHOOL--BMWCCA runs some of the best. One Driving School at a track near you and you won't be able to wipe the grin off your face. DISCLAIMER--Not responsible for any car modifications after your first BMWCCA driving school.

 

Thanks. Yea I know about the track evnts. But I didn't know the BMW club would let me in with them. I'm about 2hrs from lime rock. I will check. The run flats have been gone for a while. But the tires on the wheels I purchased are ****. I want to get the Michelin Pilots. From my research there the best. The price is high though. There are shocks thru mini that are the REAL JCW shocks. I'm not sure if they're adjustable. The car would look better about an 1" lower. I know your suppose to get it corner balanced for the set up to be correct. Your thoughts?

 

TireRack says $664 for a set of 4. But you seem willing to consider suspension mods that cost a LOT more? If your current tires are truly ****, replacing them is the most cost effective option with greatest benefit.

Have you done the rear sway bar yet?