geez, just because we had a partly sunny day today with 44F, that
doesn't mean it's summer yet.

 

If you want to drive down to my place in Chandler, I could help you out. I've done like 7 already, it's not bad. Really makes a big difference in handling!

 

If you wanted to its as good a time as any since the rear is up and the wheels are off. Just takes a little bit longer.
So thats why I got weird looks in I-88 witht he windows down and the sunroof open and short sleeves.

 

If you have plans to add coilover suspension in the future and plans to corner balance the car for track use then adding adjustable endlinks is fine and can be added at the same time as the rear swaybar.

But if you are only driving on the street and have no plans for suspension upgrades or corner balancing then there is no need to add adjustable endlinks except for looks.

The reason for adjustable endlinks is to provide a little more strength during track use and adjustable lengths help to remove any preload on the swaybars front and rear when doing corner balancing (only for autocross or track cars not for street cars).

Most MINIs do not need to upgrade endlinks, rear sway bar is OK to upgrade.

 

Don't tempt me. It's trying to snow still, so not now.

 

That was written so much better than I could have put it. From everything I have read or heard, the adjustable end-links are more of a 'very last' suspension mod than an 'early on' mod.

 

$800 is absurd, I have several customers that come to me from your area. I charge $75 to install a rear bar ($150 for a cabrio) and guarantee my work. I'll even treat you to some Carolina BBQ
A days work? or a days drive? Hmm!
--Dan

 

Since it didn't snow, was clear with no wind, 50 degrees when I finished about 3 hours later (including set-up clean-up). I didn't have all the tools that would have made it quicker.


My first challenge was jack stands. The steel one is what I used on my '48 Chevy pickup. Just a little tall. I used tonge & groove logs. Jacking up really high with the MINI jack is dicey, be careful!


My next challenge was dealing with the allen wrench and an open ended wrench on the links. Ended up grinding off some of allen so it would fit.


This part sounds worse than it is. Just take it easy, would help to have someone at the other end of the bar. The cable wasn't a big deal, just know where it is so you don't yank it out. The sub-frame had to move more for the new bar.


Some difference in weight too. A good argument about more weight vs. helping to turn faster could commence.


Finished! I'm trying the softest setting. Took a test drive, seems to turn better, but fresh cinders qualshed a true test.:impatient
p.s.: don't ever get 50 aspect ratio tires.

So for a greenhorn driveway mechanic, it was not a nasty job. Heck, I'de do it for $800.

 

Kurt,
Glad you were able to install your new bar.

For next time, there is are two flats behind the sway bar, on the bolt that you used your allen on. I believe it may be 17mm. You can put a wrench on back there and just spin off the front nut with a racket wrench.

 

I paid $60 at the Dragon to have my rear sway installed (MC), and it seemed to take well under an hour. But now it creaks loudly every single time I go over the slightest bump, even though I was told that wouldn't be the case. Someone PM'ed me with how to grease it myself but so far I've been too busy/lazy.

 

Hi Dave,

For a MC non-S, do you need to drop the subframe to remove the bar? I heard it is not necessary to remove loosen the struts and drop the subframe with the Cooper.

retroom

 

For the MC you only have to remove one rear strut - I undid the drivers side and snaked it out around the right side. Yes you have to loosen all the subframe bolts - but on the MC you do not have to remove them all at the same time as you work out the bar - this means you do not have to lift the entire subframe but simly screw it back up. Further: I removed the 2 drivers side bolts and then backed off the 2 passenger side ones until the bar got thru - then I reinserted the left bolts (but not all the way) while I emoved the right ones. Reinstall was the same way reversed.

 

For the squeaky rear swaybar, your problem is the black rubber bushing... follow the red swaybar in this picture towards the center of the car and you will spot the black bushing that is held in place by a gold metal strap and 2 bolts (only 1 visible here). You might have grease fittings (zerk) on the top of the gold strap if you have one of the more agressive h-sport bars. If you have the grease fittings, it's easy to pump in more grease with a grease gun and your problem is solved.

If you don't have the zerk fitting, like the photo above, you will have to put the rear of the car up on jack stands, remove the rear wheels, remove the 2 bolts holding the bushings down, lube the bushings and re-assemble. If you do 'em one at a time, you probably won't have to detach the linkages (the bit attached to the 3 holes of the red swaybar), though you may have to remove the 2 bolts that hold the shock tower in place so you can get back to the bolts holding down the bushing strap. It's a bit of a PITA, but something you can do in about 30 minutes if you know what you are doing... 1.5 hours if you haven't done this before.

Most of the instructions on how to replace the strut bar apply to you, but you won't have to drop the subframe to remove the swaybar... it will stay in place. Most bushings have been cut so you can pull 'em off, apply grease and refit them easily.

 

I think the flats are only on '05 and '06... I think you have to use the allen key on the older models. The flats are sized for a 17mm wrench.

 

They ALL have the flats
--Dan