Suspension Suspension Change Question
Suspension Change Question
Hey guys, I am looking to put coilovers in my car this spring. I already have them. and im looking to see what other stuff I need to get to help my car be lower. im not looking to slam my car to its *****. being in NH I just cannot do that.
also when im putting in the coilovers I was going to get my h sport comp bar. and I was going to get two adjustable control arms. since when I lower ill have too much camber, or will I? will I also need sway bar end links?
thanks. if theres any other parts that I could be forgetting let me know.
also when im putting in the coilovers I was going to get my h sport comp bar. and I was going to get two adjustable control arms. since when I lower ill have too much camber, or will I? will I also need sway bar end links?
thanks. if theres any other parts that I could be forgetting let me know.
The Hsport rear lower camber links will be a must do as you will gain neg camber and toe change when you lower it. The camber links will allow you to reduce that camber and get the toe back into spec. We see cars all the time that people just lower and don't put adjustable arms on with the tires just chewed up. So get the links the first time rather than buying a set of tires and then a set of links.
Are links required if you just do springs and a sway bar? That's my current plan... my impression was that I would have a little bit of uneven wear in the back without links but at the modest 1.4" or so lowering of the springs the links might not be necessary... thoughts?
Make sure you verify with your setup if you need wheel spacers. Once lowered and depending on your camber, you may need some slight spacers depending on your wheels. So do some research before you drop to make sure you are covered. I had to get some 12mil H&R spacers and in turn longer lugs to prevent my wheels from rubbing, but I am dropped more than I think you will go.
Are links required if you just do springs and a sway bar? That's my current plan... my impression was that I would have a little bit of uneven wear in the back without links but at the modest 1.4" or so lowering of the springs the links might not be necessary... thoughts?
1.4" isn't exactly "modest" with MINIs. I can't say for sure since I'm running coilovers, but the rear links (lower control arms) are going to be a lot easier to adjust and keep within the tolerances of the factory camber and therefore keep your tires from wearing prematurely. I would research on the forum from others with your setup. I am sure there are others with your exact kit.
Zcast,
Just to confirm, you are recommending rear camber links to help with the camber issues after lowering with the springs, right? Do you see the sway bar links being necessary as well?
Just to confirm, you are recommending rear camber links to help with the camber issues after lowering with the springs, right? Do you see the sway bar links being necessary as well?
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from what I am understanding is that if you lower more than an inch you may want the links and camber arms, I want the camber arms regardless, and the lowering is going to be what seems right, not looking for a particular number, I may just end up getting them
There is some adjustability in the stock rear control arms, but not much. If you lower the car more than an inch, you'll need adjustable control arms. If you are installing coil-overs, and will corner weigh the car, you will need at least one adjustable sway bar drop link per axle, so that you don't pre-load the sway bar. Beware of cheap-o drop links with poor quality heim jonts that are not booted (covered with a rubber boot): if they don't clatter at first, they will eventually.
If you're doing springs, and not coilovers, adjustable swaybar links are not necessary: they are used when you are setting the individual height of each corner, like you do with coilovers. The reason is that if the height of one side of an axle is higher than the other, the swaybar will pre-load, which is bad for handling. the adjustable drop links un-loads that pre-load (and therefore, technically, you only need one adjustable link per axle).
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