Thanks for the info!

So much conflicting information floating around. In some threads (maybe even this one) I can find people saying pretty much the opposite.

The fact that your advice would result in you selling a cheaper item (links) versus a pricier item (good camber plate) gives it a lot of credence!

If time/money was no object I'd approach it the right way - change one thing at a time and assess the results. Not very practical though.

If Atlanta was a little closer I'd love to just hand you the car and a pile of cash and say "please fix it".

Thanks,
Don

 

Ok, to sum up what I'm hearing, for modest lowering, decent comfort on real roads, and improved handling on an S Roadster with base suspension:

Plan A:

1) TSW Springs
2) HSport 19mm Rear Swaybar
3) HSport Rear Lower Control Arms
4) Koni Yellow Shocks
5) Shortened bump-stops


And for a cheaper and milder change:

Plan B:

1) HSport 19mm Rear Swaybar
2) Koni FSD Shocks


Plan B obviously a lot cheaper to implement, so my question there is would it even be worth doing without changing to stiffer springs?

And not to spiral this thread off onto a whole new tangent, but I am curious about how either Plan A or B would impact warranty concerns. (one reason the JCW Suspension is attractive)
I know the theory, prove direct cause and so on, it's the dealing-with-actual-dealers aspect of obvious changes to suspension geometry that concern me.

Don

 

I think you have it right. The question about warranty is a tricky one. How is your relationship with your dealer, specifically the service manager? I've spoken to mine about it, and was told they understand the modding process and will take care of me...what that actually means when something fails on my modded new car remains to be seen. I share that concern, as I know I won't wait until the warranty expires to mod the new Roadster. When do you take delivery?

 

This would be the first mod I've done that concerns me. Others have been peripheral to suspension/drivetrain so I haven't had that discussion.

Although the cost would no doubt be higher, I have pondered seeing if the dealer a) would install aftermarket parts, and b) would that improve their attitude about warranty issues.

It's all a gamble regardless - Service Managers come and go, as do their "memories" from stories I've heard.
(not talking about my local dealer - I've had no experience good or bad in that area)

My car is at the VDC, and as best I can tell waiting for a truck to carry it to the midwest.
The advice to drive the car and see how it feels is sound, but if I find it really wanting, my goal is to have a plan in place and ready to be triggered.

Don

 

It wouldn't be a bad thing to do, talking with them about your plans. I've had my dealer install aftermarket parts, although they do pre-empt it with a disclaimer.

Looking forward to seeing some pics of your new Roadster very soon I hope.

Back to suspension once more, I have used the FSD/Eibach spring combo on my 330i and love it. I replaced the BMW sport suspension with it. Very controlled and very comfortable. I have read, they are not designed to be used with reduced suspension travel(read lowered Mini). Staying close to stock ride height may be necessary for them. Another good question for Way. I've also read many good reports on the Koni Yellows, and may be giving those a try.

-Steven

 

The sport suspension with non runflat tires that I have on my 2011 MCS really works well. The only good reason I can think of changing it is to get rid of the wheel gap, decrease body roll and squat, and make is understeer a little less. I'd suggest driving the roadster for at least a couple thousand miles before changing anything.

 

Yeah, f I had the Sport suspension I'd be less concerned with the upgrade. Wheel gap and body roll are two of the big reasons I'm planning to upgrade.

Don

 

Here are a couple more things to think about:

In general, more negative camber will increase cornering traction with no other changes to the suspension, and the opposite is true.

The MINI tends to understeer as delivered from the factory, like most cars.

If you increase front axle traction (by increasing negative camber), understeer will decrease. You can increase camber with the free camber mod or (more dramatically) with camber plates.

If you decrease rear axle traction (by decreasing negative camber), understeer will decrease. To significantly change rear suspension camber, adjustable aftermarket arms are required.

Another thing is that the MINI comes from the factory with lots of negative camber in the rear.

My point is that an alignment can affect the handling of the car. Pair the alignment with an adjustable rear bar and you can probably tune the cornering without affecting the ride (shocks or springs). 1 - 1.5 degrees negative seems to be a good compromise between handling and tire wear.

On my 08 MCS the free camber mod got me to .7 degrees in the front, and I did not notice the change in handling. I have my H&R 19 mm bar (actually measured 18 mm) on the stiffest setting. I am waiting for warmer weather to install my TSW springs, IE fixed camber plates, and rear control arms. I also picked up a set of used shocks off of a JCW to replace my factory sport shocks (the shocks are labeled 'sport).

It is good to plan and research, but it will also be good to drive the car a bit and confirm what you like and don't like.

Good luck.

Mike

 

I agree with Mike that a lot can be done with a good alignment. His points of the added negative front camber for free and adding adjustable rear controll arms to reduce some of the rear negative camber will go a long way to increasing the handling. I think his plan of the fixed I.E. plates for the front is a great idea for a street ride.
Steve