was thinking about it, but PC melts again at 400 degrees, not sure if either of them get that hot. and I do not know if the PC will hold heat in...
was thinking of grinding down the marks on them, then polishing them... still up in the air

 

I remembered it was Octane Guy who had his horns on his old 1st gen PC'd. As seen in this post https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...1-post129.html. If you have any doubts ask him.

I doubt the Intake horns get anywhere near 400, in fact probably stay under 200. They are aluminum so if they got to 400, they would superheat the intake charge. (aluminum is one of the best heat conductors of any non-malleable metals)

As far as PC holding in heat, No idea.

 

well after a year with the roll center adjusters, I have taken them out.

My driver side CV joint is wasted. I do not know if the RCA's helped or hindered my CV, but since I just got Driveshaft Shop Level 2.9 axles, I have been told I do not need them. So out they are. I of course I had to air chisel them off the stupid ball joints thanks to the lovely chicago winters and salt, but they are out. Still have the passenger side axle to install, Saturday should be the day. I cant wait to have fun figuring out how to press that stupid bearing off the old intermediate shaft, and then on the new one. Should be interesting.

 

WOW. outstanding job. You are lucky to have an oven that is dedicated to your powdercoating(I was told NOT to use the oven in the kitchen)
I am getting ready to install Megan Coilovers, Alta rear sway bar, and new brakes all the way around, would love to go the route you went but my Marine Corps retirement check, and SS check only goes so far, and my wife and I have agreed that our investments are not to be touched unless abslolutely necessary.
Good Luck with your car, believe me you have done exactly what i would have done if I had the money. One thing I learned from my 1st marriage is not to spend all my(really our)money on cars. Seems the more you do the more you want to do.

 

Exactly. burning any powder coating that gets on the racks would make food taste terrible, let alone add in whatever bad stuff is in burning plastic. You really need a dedicated oven. if you got the 220v power avail, this oven just cost $50 off craigslist. well worth it.

Indeed. I had the same issue. I, however, got rid of the wife. Problem solved.


In other news, I did get the passenger side out. pressed the bearing out, and the seals are bad, and there was very little grease in there, and some rust. Now the issue is to find a replacement bearing. As i'm sure others have found, it is a very hard bearing to source in the USA. I'll keep looking though. I would rather not just repack and re-use the old one, as there is some play in it, even though it cleaned up decently.

 

Well Then...

I finally got a replacement bearing. I was then able to get the DSS axles in, along with new axle seals.

Clutch was slipping, and I though it was air in the clutch slave
Bleed the daylights out of it, and it just got worse and worse.

figured it is toast, and ordered the OS Giken GT clutch and thier LSD

pulled the trans to find this:











I scooped out about 4-6 ounces of this goo, and cleaned it all up with gas. Much better!



I got the clutch and the LSD in











While waiting for parts, and while other parts were off the car, I got my Vibra-technics trans and motor mounts in.
I also then felt the need to clean up the intake manafold





then of course the powder coater came out









Still bolting the car back together, and waiting for a new radiator support to arrive. all will be done by sat I hope.

 

This is ridiculous and completely awesome! Wish I had the dedicated income and the wrench time available. You've got a great write up going and what looks like a pretty awesome ride as well.

 

Well thanks! It has been a long hard road, and I still have a lot to go. This will be the 4th clutch in the car. I hope it lasts longer than the rest Can't wait to drive it...

 

Did you find what seal was leaking in the trans? Possible causes?

 

Nothing stuck out. rear main was dry, no goo on that side at all, and no leak from the input shaft either. I replaced the input shaft seal and the rear main seal anyway, just in case. it looks like it came from the flywheel? I though that I had seen someone else that had the same amount of goo in their bell housing, and I thought someone mentioned it was because of a bad dual mass FW. I could not find the thread to confirm though. I did not think they were filled with any grease of any sort... so I was kinda stumped. It was not gritty like I would think fluid and clutch dust mixed would be. Plus it was only around the edge, like it was thrown from the FW.

 

Good call on the new seals. (Spend a buck now, save later.)

Ive got no clue whats in the dual mass flywheel. Looks like we will find out when I eventually pull my motor. Remind me and I will cut a chunk out of it just to see.

(Its been a while since I have broken anything, and I'm gettin the itch!)

 

I had forgotten what a rad thread this was. Great work on just about every inch of your car!

 

Great work. Better think about replacing the OEM oil dip stick before it snaps. I just got mine from CravenSpeed & its a nice piece. A bit pricy @ $75.00 but worth it IMO.

 

Thanks Applesauce!

Funny you mention that Apexer...

After the car was at the dealer 2-3 years ago for something just before ext warr ran out, I checked the oil a month or so later, and when I pulled the dipstick out, the fiberglass was already broken, and when i pulled it, the last bit of the plastic coating on it ripped, and I was left with half a dipstick in my hand(Thank God I am talking about my car!) I figured it was not worth trying to prove that they did it, so I fished the broken end out, and got a replacement. it was only $22 from WMW, http://www.waymotorworks.com/cooper-s-dipstick-r53.html

I figure the problem will be solved for good if I get enough OT to get the Rotrex kit, since it comes with a billet dipstick, and a new tube.

 

I was given this, looks like the FW is filled with a silicone grease...
http://www.gif.net/en/company/participations/gat.html

 

New radiator support is in, new P/S hoses are in, replaced coil, ngk IR plugs, and 8mm firebraid kingsborne wires. All is back together, except for the replacement Clutch slave cylinder,and the front bumper cover and hella's. Finishing that tonite, then bleeding the brake/clutch system and refilling all of the fluids that had been drained, which is all of them...

 

I have to ask....
What powdercoating kit/setup do you have? This is now on my wish list . Looking great.

 

just the cheap powder coating gun from Harbor freight. It has worked fine for the stuff I do. They are like $75, but they go on sale for $60, and you can always find the 20% off coupons in the back of magazines. I do not their use their powder though, it sucks. Powder I get from http://www.columbiacoatings.com/ I use their super mirror colors. Then you need an oven. I got an old one cheap on craigslist. or, you can even use a toaster oven for small parts. Do not use one you ever intend to cook food in again.