Suspension D!cks Garage, Suspension plans and Questions
I take it by the lack of posts that this must be a pretty solid list of suspension parts, un like my ideas for making a few extra HP everyone must agree.
I think I will order the PSRS and tack weld them in place, I really wont mind the squeeks they make(if I can even hear them over the LOUD a$$ exahust I have). I'm still deciding between ALTA and TSW end links. And think I might design my own rear brace, or just cage the thing if I am stuck over here for 18 months instead of 12
But I dont think I will make my weight goal with a cage(2400lbs loaded with me in it).
I'm still waiting for some good alignment specs aswell
I think I will order the PSRS and tack weld them in place, I really wont mind the squeeks they make(if I can even hear them over the LOUD a$$ exahust I have). I'm still deciding between ALTA and TSW end links. And think I might design my own rear brace, or just cage the thing if I am stuck over here for 18 months instead of 12
But I dont think I will make my weight goal with a cage(2400lbs loaded with me in it). I'm still waiting for some good alignment specs aswell

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BC7VpQs9BHA
Somehow I think my car will be equaly loud compared to that one
I have a pic on another thread of what I built for a exahust, and recently had a RMW header delivered.
But this is a suspension and related parts thread I'm noy going there.
I have a pic on another thread of what I built for a exahust, and recently had a RMW header delivered.
But this is a suspension and related parts thread I'm noy going there.
My streight pipe/RMW combo will probably be just as loud
I have a pic of my system on another thread that I started.
But this is a suspension and related parts thread I,m not going there.
I have a pic of my system on another thread that I started. But this is a suspension and related parts thread I,m not going there.
Hey Jan since you are going to be doing the tuning (canned to start, then more later) how does my suspension list sound to you?
Low 200's for the hp number ought to propell me through the twistys fast enough for some serious fun IMO, I'm glad I didn't save all my money and just buy a Lotus.
Low 200's for the hp number ought to propell me through the twistys fast enough for some serious fun IMO, I'm glad I didn't save all my money and just buy a Lotus.
Hey Jan since you are going to be doing the tuning (canned to start, then more later) how does my suspension list sound to you?
Low 200's for the hp number ought to propell me through the twistys fast enough for some serious fun IMO, I'm glad I didn't save all my money and just buy a Lotus.
Low 200's for the hp number ought to propell me through the twistys fast enough for some serious fun IMO, I'm glad I didn't save all my money and just buy a Lotus.

if you want proven suspension setups, then doing it right the first time is key.......
feel free to contact me in helping you with your setup
I have decided to go with KW's, after all of the research and reading that I have been doing, it seems that they are a little better of an option than the CROSS'es for me.
So heres the new list everything except the brakes, and coilovers has been ordered. I know it will come up so yes I can still get TSW parts right now, even though they have closed their doors.
TSW KW version-3 coilovers
TSW X-brace
TSW endlinks front and rear
H-sport COMP swaybar SET front and rear
Helix rear controll arms, all 4
Alta PSRS
Mini Mania PSA (front balljoint spacers) I heard good things from the guy who designed them and they where cheap.
Powerflex rear trailing arm bushings
Vorschlag camber plates
AST rear upper pillowball mounts
M7 strut brace (anti mushrooming device with a little bling)
TCE/ Wilwood front +3 13"BBK sloted rotors and red powder coat options
TCE rear +1 BBK 11.75" stock calapers
Konig Feather wheels 17X7 black finish
Nitto NT-01 rubber 215/45/17
So heres the new list everything except the brakes, and coilovers has been ordered. I know it will come up so yes I can still get TSW parts right now, even though they have closed their doors.
TSW KW version-3 coilovers
TSW X-brace
TSW endlinks front and rear
H-sport COMP swaybar SET front and rear
Helix rear controll arms, all 4
Alta PSRS
Mini Mania PSA (front balljoint spacers) I heard good things from the guy who designed them and they where cheap.
Powerflex rear trailing arm bushings
Vorschlag camber plates
AST rear upper pillowball mounts
M7 strut brace (anti mushrooming device with a little bling)
TCE/ Wilwood front +3 13"BBK sloted rotors and red powder coat options
TCE rear +1 BBK 11.75" stock calapers
Konig Feather wheels 17X7 black finish
Nitto NT-01 rubber 215/45/17
spie in the sky
SANDMAN>>> GREAT list (cept for ANYTHING alta) Watch out on the 215 Nittos~~ my car is lowered app 2.50" and clearance at the front upper wheel arches was just TOO tight w / the 215 & "bumpy" roads so I'm back at the 205's~~though it trully wouldn't take much at all to make them (215) work and there IS ALOT more tire there~~~~~~~~~~ just my dime !
OBEY
OBEY
Ah yes Fish I had originaly planed on 215/40/17 which is shorter than the stock tires, so there wouldnt be any clearance isues. BUT Nitto dosent offer the NT-01 in that size the closest they have is the 215/45/17 or to drop some treadwith and go with a 205 series, after contemplating this dilema I decided the taller tire might be the way to go. I came to this conclusion out of concideration that I'm not slamming the car (sheetmetal to ground) the X-brace hangs pretty low from what I hear so a little lift might keep it off the tarmac, and it might sound odd but I would like the gearing rased a little bit, just a couple MPH in each gear, and the larger tire will cure that too. If the tires proove to be a little too big and hit my rubermaid arches thats nothing a Dremmel tool cant solve, but if it turns out I dont like the tires at all, give them about 3000 miles of good use and its time for another set.
As for ALTA's PSRS I am also picking up a set of Powerflex bushings (Black type) to replace them WHEN they fail.
As for ALTA's PSRS I am also picking up a set of Powerflex bushings (Black type) to replace them WHEN they fail.
Nope none of the KW's come with camber plates.
TSW just recomends using the VORSCHLAG plates, they have prooven to be the strongest design in adjustable plates to them. And I figgured since I was going big with the rest of the setup, I would try some real beafy pillowballs out back, and the AST ones look pretty stout to me.
TSW just recomends using the VORSCHLAG plates, they have prooven to be the strongest design in adjustable plates to them. And I figgured since I was going big with the rest of the setup, I would try some real beafy pillowballs out back, and the AST ones look pretty stout to me.
That is what Jeff from TSW told me. The locking bolts hold better than any of the others they tested.
Here are a couple pics of the way my car sits right now, half a world away. Sorry they are so small my sister is still trying to figure out how to resize pictures, and theese are only most of the small boxes of parts she didnt get the big stuff.



Here are a couple pics of the way my car sits right now, half a world away. Sorry they are so small my sister is still trying to figure out how to resize pictures, and theese are only most of the small boxes of parts she didnt get the big stuff.



Does anybody out there that is still paying any attention to this thread, know the weight of the Autopower "RACE" roll bar?
I think I might be able to hit close to my 2500 pound goal, but I'm not sure on the bar.
Here is a list of things I am changing, or going to ditch all togeather to loose a few pounds. Its all in the name of speed because the lightest car is the fastest car.
(1) I bought a BASE model = NO sun roof and verry minimal options
(2) The rear seat is gone (Will be up for sale next year)
(3) All the plastic on the rear interior GONE (see above caption)
(4) ALL the sound deadening goo has been removed (get out the toarch and scraper- it was a P.I.T.A.)
(5) The batery was replaced with a pint sized ODESSEY (Lost 15 lbs)
ALL OF THE ABOVE WAS DONE PRIOR TO MY DEPLOYMENT "WET" WEIGHT WAS 2660 lbs TAKE AWAY 7 POUNDS PER GALLON OF A FULL TANK, AND 160 POUNDS OF D**K IN THE DRIVERS SEAT WHERE I BELONG.
SINCE I HAVE BEEN HERE
(6) Seibon carbonfiber hood -20ish pounds
(7) All of the worthless inoperable A/C garbage is going away - 30+ pounds?
(8) HEAVY stock fat people seats replaced with SPARCO Sprint 5's on Brey&Krause side mounts each seat+frame+slider assembly now weighs 27 pounds total per side (stock seats + heaters for sale in 2011)
(9) I am removing the side curtian airbags 6-10 lbs each
(10) I'm cuting out the roof rack mounts was told they are upwards of 10 pounds for the set.
(11) Cuting off the arms for thr rear seatback - 10 lbs each
(12) I'm triming off most of the front and rear bumpers (internal aluminum) I did it on my R50 and lost 13 lbs on the front and 7 more in the back
(13) Switching from stock seatbelts to 5 point harnesses
(14) The Konig feathers save 2 lbs each and gain an inch of rim size
(15) Hollow swaybars not sure on the weight H-SPORT comp set
(16) Helix rear controll arms half weight of the stock ones X4
(17) forgot to mention my exahust 25 lbs lighter than stock
Even though I will be adding a little weight here and there it should still be pretty light with the bar, plus it will add the weight back over the rear axle to improve the balance.
I think I might be able to hit close to my 2500 pound goal, but I'm not sure on the bar.
Here is a list of things I am changing, or going to ditch all togeather to loose a few pounds. Its all in the name of speed because the lightest car is the fastest car.
(1) I bought a BASE model = NO sun roof and verry minimal options
(2) The rear seat is gone (Will be up for sale next year)
(3) All the plastic on the rear interior GONE (see above caption)
(4) ALL the sound deadening goo has been removed (get out the toarch and scraper- it was a P.I.T.A.)
(5) The batery was replaced with a pint sized ODESSEY (Lost 15 lbs)
ALL OF THE ABOVE WAS DONE PRIOR TO MY DEPLOYMENT "WET" WEIGHT WAS 2660 lbs TAKE AWAY 7 POUNDS PER GALLON OF A FULL TANK, AND 160 POUNDS OF D**K IN THE DRIVERS SEAT WHERE I BELONG.
SINCE I HAVE BEEN HERE
(6) Seibon carbonfiber hood -20ish pounds
(7) All of the worthless inoperable A/C garbage is going away - 30+ pounds?
(8) HEAVY stock fat people seats replaced with SPARCO Sprint 5's on Brey&Krause side mounts each seat+frame+slider assembly now weighs 27 pounds total per side (stock seats + heaters for sale in 2011)
(9) I am removing the side curtian airbags 6-10 lbs each
(10) I'm cuting out the roof rack mounts was told they are upwards of 10 pounds for the set.
(11) Cuting off the arms for thr rear seatback - 10 lbs each
(12) I'm triming off most of the front and rear bumpers (internal aluminum) I did it on my R50 and lost 13 lbs on the front and 7 more in the back
(13) Switching from stock seatbelts to 5 point harnesses
(14) The Konig feathers save 2 lbs each and gain an inch of rim size
(15) Hollow swaybars not sure on the weight H-SPORT comp set
(16) Helix rear controll arms half weight of the stock ones X4
(17) forgot to mention my exahust 25 lbs lighter than stock
Even though I will be adding a little weight here and there it should still be pretty light with the bar, plus it will add the weight back over the rear axle to improve the balance.
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