Definitely take a lot of pictures and measure the travel of the coilovers and overall length. That will help a lot of people out.

Sent you a PM. I'm not a vendor on here yet.

- Andrew

 

AHH!!!! Vendor just called and said that Eibach has these in a prototype state still and they won't be available for ~3 months. So...not sure what I want to do now. Any recommendations?

 

Stupid Eibach.

KW Variant 1's are essentially the same thing, just a little tiny bit more money.

I'm checking to see if they have the Eibachs for R53 and then you could just get the rear shock adaptors for R56. I kinda want them myself for my R53.

- andrew

 

Andrew,
Thanks. I was looking at the V1's. Can I use those with the swift linear coilover spring(s) or do I need a behive style spring? I plan to run the stock stuck cap/bearing and I am not sure if the the linear coilover spring can use this or if they need camber plates to seat correctly?

 

Well,
I have changed my mind once again. Tony at Eibach totally convinced me that the multi-pro R1's were awesome units and I purchased. I brought up Swift springs and the conversation turned into even more education and now I am not so sure that I am interested in ugrading or downgrading (depending on who you ask). So, I think...at this point, I am going to run these R1's straight up as is. Again...I want to thak everybody for their input and advice to this point. This was a coilover journey I never thought that I would have had.

 

Post up pics and specs when you get them! Measure suspension travel if you can.

- Andrew

 

I rec'd these a few days ago and they are jewelery. Very, very high quality pieces. Extremely light and the finish is impeccable. All the way from the casing, to the aluminum machined gland nut. I am impressed. Although expensive, I believe that these will be worth the price of admission. I will install them once I have the car and do a write up. Very excited to get the car and get these installed.

 

Very excited to hear your impressions

 

ff topic:


///Mflossin = same cat off of S14.net ??!?!?!?

 

That would be me.

Well,
Suspension install went well today and I thought it would be a "cake walk" to get the front's done but that wasn't the case. The shaft on these are a VERY, VERY tight fit. I have never run into an issue like I did today. Here is the scenario. One OE bearing slid on the solid portion of the shaft will a little bit of force as expected...no big deal. Second shaft, not so lucky. I put all of my weight on it and was compressing the shock and it would not budge. So, I figured that If I installed it, I could get the weight of the car to work for me...not the case. Here is what it looks like...car is still on the lift. My question is..should I drive it slowly and non-aggressively and see if the bearing cap will come down onto the shaft? I have never run into and issue like this....REALLY put a damper on things tonight.

Here is the side in question and you can see that the adjuster is hardly in sight.



After sliding down the shaft, the bushing and then the nut go on.



Lastly...picture of completed driver's side with nut engaged.



I am taking tomorrow off from work....I want to finish this. Any opinions or comments on the driving on it comment from before. I am hoping that would do the trick. Insight would be VERY much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

Got it finished early this a.m. I took the car down to a friend and had him use his air impact on the top nut. My gun didn't have enough juice to run the bearing top down the shaft. Job done in no time. I have a weird "loose change" sound form time to time out of the passenger's side rear...I think it might be the tender/helper spring. It is very thin and flimsy. At the current ride height...I think it's making a tinging noise. Quite faint but still there. I also installed my full JCW factory exhaust today....very easy and with the assistance of my neighbor holding the OE exhaust it took a mere 25 minutes. I will post some pictures later. I still need to raise the car a bit as it's just flat out too low for a daily.

 

hmm,that's perplexing, and a little worrying. I was hoping to buy the Multi-Pro's within the next couple weeks, but this has stopped me in my tracks a little bit.

Have you driven it at all? What's the handling like? Ride quality? Damper adjustments make much difference, etc?

 

I haven't driven it much. In honesty...it felt a little bouncy to me at half settings front and rear. I have to play with that so the verdict is out. I am going to uninstall the rear shocks tomorrow and visually inspect that all is good, then I am heading to the alignment shop. I want to raise the car prior to the alignment as it's currently too low even though it looks awesome. I will keep you posted ....probably post back sometime tomorrow afternoon/evening with impressions.

 

much appreciated

 

etalj,
I put the car on the lift today and uninstalled the suspension. Everything was spot on as expected. I went and got my four wheel laser alignment today and unbelievably, the rear camber was off by 6 minutes on the driver's side, toe was spot on. Front camber was off by 4 minutes and the toe had to just ever so slightly be touched. So...after lowering a good 2-2.25", the alignment was not off by much!

I took my e30 M3 out for a rip today so I didn't have much time to drive the MINI but there is still a very, very faint loose change sound from time to time (barely audible but there) and the rebound/dampening still need to be adjusted, currently it's too stiff. Very livable but still on the stiff side. I'll back off two clicks and see what that does for overal ride quality. It is NOT bouncy now though.

I will post back with even further review after it's driven a bit. The guys at the Bosch shop laugh at me. Car has only 185 miles on it and it's got coilover, sway bar, lower arms, JCW exhaust etc. Oh well....fun stuff.

 

thanks heaps for that buddy, I'm eagerly awaiting your full review. Oh and by the way, how come it wasn't bouncy the second time around? Did you stiffen or soften the damping?

 

No problem. My pleasure. I like to give honest feedback on products and help people when I can. I did in fact increase the dampening/rebound so that is why it is now stiff. So, as mentioned, I plan to back off a few more clicks and go for a ride. This is when having a lift makes life a breeze as you need to raise the rear off the car to access the dampening/rebound adjuster.

I will post back tonight with my findings. Gorgeous day here so after some yardwork I'll get to the good stuff.

 

raising the ride height will help the stiffness....

 

Andyroo,
Can't totally confirm this but softening the rebound/dampening another 2 clicks seems to have gotten me to a good point. The ride is a bit stiff but to my liking. I can't say anything bad about the coilovers...they ride as I figured they would and I am happy. I will take a few pictures and post sooner than later.

 

OK...after a bit more time on these they are nice. I have been playing with the dampening/rebound and think that I found the sweet spot between stiffness and comfort (since it is a street car). I haven't pushed the car through the twisties but I would think that they would do the job just right. Only time will tell just how good these are but so far...so good.

 

Tenders can do that. Did on my V1's on the RSX. When I changed the rear spring weight, I also bought a longer spring. No tender. No tink. No noise from the front as I guess it sat harder at full droop.

 

Wow, that seems really stiff for the street. More like race. The S is bouncy at half that. Cross and Megan coilovers are in that range, just for a comparison.

Swift is THE supplier for most serious racers. Quality stuff.

 

Please explain. Other than running out of travel.

 

Thanks for your insight. It has to be the tenders making the noise. There is nothing else that it could possibly be. I would bet the farm that if I removed the tenders, the noise would be completely gone. It is sort of nice to have tension on the springs when the car is unloaded (on lift) but really I don't see any other reason for the tenders. Maybe I'll remove them at some point.

 

You can't just pull out the tenders. Here is the issue.
The spring when at full extension must maintain pressure in the seat. You can't have it coming loose. I was able to remove my rear tenders because I used a longer, softer, spring and had very little drop. This got me about half an inch of preload at full extension. Unless you are doing custom springs, the only solution if the full extension height exceeds the spring height is a tender.