Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Suspension TSW endlinks....lowered MINI...HELP!

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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 02:49 PM
  #1  
SNEEEZY - Erika's Avatar
SNEEEZY - Erika
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TSW endlinks....lowered MINI...HELP!

Lowered approximately 1"...

Do the TSW endlinks need to be shortened or lengthened from OEM endlink length?

Thanks!

Erika
 
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 02:59 PM
  #2  
k-huevo's Avatar
k-huevo
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From: Pipe Creek, Texas
Shortened for the rear, lengthened for the front
 
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 02:59 PM
  #3  
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minihune
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From: Mililani, Hawaii
Originally Posted by Uber Blu - Erika
Lowered approximately 1"...

Do the TSW endlinks need to be shortened or lengthened from OEM endlink length?

Thanks!

Erika
Neither if you have lowering springs only. But it can depend based on what your other suspension upgrades are.

Lowered using springs only or coilovers?

If you have lowering springs only then you don't really need aftermarket endlinks unless you like the looks or if you have a need for stronger than stock endlinks.

Aftermarket endlinks are adjustable and are usually helpful if you want to adjust tension on front or rear adjustable/fixed sway bars.

If you have coilovers and they are ride height adjustable then if you want to do corner balancing then you can remove the endlinks, jack up the MINI and adjust each endlink so that you remove pre-tension for each as you install them back after you have finished corner balancing the car.

If you don't want to corner balance then you don't need endlinks except for looks and strength. Stock endlinks should work fine except for heavy performance driving such as on a track but it can depend on the rest of your suspension and power upgrades.

If you are not corner balancing then you can remove each endlink and adjust the new endlinks to be the same length as you replace each OEM endlink.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 03:37 PM
  #4  
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minimarks
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From: Winston-Salem, NC
I don't see how endlinks could lower a car 1 inch by themselves unless maybe they are drastically longer or shorter. Did you do anything else and looking at the swaybars what is their angle in relationship to the ground? PS: Adjustable endlinks don't come preset to length, you need to adjust them to your car.
 

Last edited by minimarks; Oct 12, 2008 at 03:44 PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 04:24 PM
  #5  
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minihune
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From: Mililani, Hawaii
Originally Posted by minimarks
I don't see how endlinks could lower a car 1 inch by themselves unless maybe they are drastically longer or shorter. Did you do anything else and looking at the swaybars what is their angle in relationship to the ground? PS: Adjustable endlinks don't come preset to length, you need to adjust them to your car.
Endlinks are at the ends of each swaybar.

Changing only endlinks will not change ride height.

I had H-sport springs for a one inch drop front and rear and used stock endlinks and it was fine. Therefore you can keep the stock endlink length for a one inch drop.

Aftermarket endlinks are fully adjustable so that you can fine tune the length in case you need to.

Adjust ride height with a coilover then corner balance then adjust endlink, then check corner balance again before doing alignment.

Not doing corner balancing? No need for aftermarket endlinks required.
Considering corner balance later or keeping options open? Then keep stock endlinks or upgrade to aftermarket ones set at stock length.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 07:39 PM
  #6  
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minimarks
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From: Winston-Salem, NC
My bad.... I thought he was saying that the endlinks lowered his car 1 inch. My car is lowered about 1 inch and it has the Powergrid endlinks. When I adjusted them with no load on the swaybars the car handeled much better,before when it was on the track it sort of felt like it was bound up a little in hard corning, now it feels like the suspension is working freely. 2 cents
 
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Old Oct 13, 2008 | 12:08 PM
  #7  
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From: Tejas
The most important thing is to ensure that the front swaybar won't bind on anything at either end of full suspension travel as far as the length goes... k-huevo and I disgree on the disparity of the lengths. As long as the bar is close to level with the car on the ground, you'll be fine.

Also, make sure you are sitting in the car while someone else ensures the preload is neutralized. It does make a MAJOR difference in handling, no matter what suspension you are running (to the tune of 0.5 seconds or more a lap, as we have tested, which is beyond the bounds of statistical irregularities).
 
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