Suspension Effect of camber plates on understeer
OK my $.02
I run Helix adj plates up front, H-sport control arms rear, Alta 22MM RASB (on softest setting) M7 FSTB, Pilo Racing RSTB and H-sport lowering springs with stock cartriges. My settings are as follows.
Front -2 deg camber, 1/16" toe out
Rear -1.5 deg camber ,1/16" toe in
Turn in is great, very slight cupping at the end of the tire life. Brake force is reduced by a slight ammount (less than 10% I'd say) no noticable loss in acceleration (this is probably because it's Justa Cooper)
FWIW I had some slight mushrooming before I installed the M7 FSTB and fixed it before the install. From what I mesured on the plates I have around 1" of billet aluminum (1/2" above and 1/2" below) around the surface where the strut tower mounts to the car at the top, and there has been no problem since. So if you can keep the MM reinforcement plates on, they will only help and will do no harm.
BTW as my Mini is set up, it is neutral and I can induce over/understeer with tire pressure at a moments notice. TP I use is 41psi front 38psi rear (this is completely neutral) and kinda weird in a sweeper.
I run Helix adj plates up front, H-sport control arms rear, Alta 22MM RASB (on softest setting) M7 FSTB, Pilo Racing RSTB and H-sport lowering springs with stock cartriges. My settings are as follows.
Front -2 deg camber, 1/16" toe out
Rear -1.5 deg camber ,1/16" toe in
Turn in is great, very slight cupping at the end of the tire life. Brake force is reduced by a slight ammount (less than 10% I'd say) no noticable loss in acceleration (this is probably because it's Justa Cooper)
FWIW I had some slight mushrooming before I installed the M7 FSTB and fixed it before the install. From what I mesured on the plates I have around 1" of billet aluminum (1/2" above and 1/2" below) around the surface where the strut tower mounts to the car at the top, and there has been no problem since. So if you can keep the MM reinforcement plates on, they will only help and will do no harm.
BTW as my Mini is set up, it is neutral and I can induce over/understeer with tire pressure at a moments notice. TP I use is 41psi front 38psi rear (this is completely neutral) and kinda weird in a sweeper.
Last edited by GOTCURVES; Oct 13, 2008 at 10:08 AM.
IE fixed camber plates do have a larger surface area to spread the load,

and are more ridged by virtue of both larger area and thicker, solid steel as opposed to the stamped OEM steel on the stock guide support.

Understeer tendencies are reduced due to increased traction up front.
Negative one degree up front is enough for the majority of public road environments.
I have the same amount of camber on both sides with IE fixed plates so not all MINIs have camber disparity up front from the factory.
An alignment is required after increasing camber because toe will be affected.
and are more ridged by virtue of both larger area and thicker, solid steel as opposed to the stamped OEM steel on the stock guide support.
Understeer tendencies are reduced due to increased traction up front.
Negative one degree up front is enough for the majority of public road environments.
I have the same amount of camber on both sides with IE fixed plates so not all MINIs have camber disparity up front from the factory.
An alignment is required after increasing camber because toe will be affected.
My IE fixed plates give me 1.8 & 1.9. My MINI is on stock springs. I'm happy with how close those numbers are. I've had the IE plates on for 12,000 miles now & my tire wear looks great.
As far as reducing understeer they do, but our cars will still understeer, just a higher limit. The IE fixed plates seem perfect for the street & occasional track use. When you put the plates on you will end up with a lot of toe-in, an alignment is a must.
it's just too bad BMW squashed Rover's proposal for unequal length and non parallel links for the suspension. 
+1. looks to be about that when said and done. the increased wheel gap is not noticeable when storming the tight sweeper.

and back on topic and joining the chorus,
the increased negative camber improves turn in. one must be smooth with steering input. I do notice better grip though the turn which reduces the initial feeling of understeer.
[quote=heyduard;2511469] it's just too bad BMW squashed Rover's proposal for unequal length and non parallel links for the suspension. 
Greg, Onasled, and I discussed the possibility of incorporating a modified upper link from my old 99 Si. We never went much beyond conversation, but if I had the time and money, this would be a worth while experiment. The two cars have basically the same weight and weight distribution. The arrangement of the LCA is close...but mm matter here. Space within the strut tower and its strength need to be evaluated in sinc with a final arrangment that actually improves the mini's handling.
There are areas where the Si is so much better than the mini in terms of pure handling potential, but the car has other weaknesses that cannot be overcome - huge steering gear - 19:1 - and lifeless steering feel. The relatively weak body structure can be fixed.

Greg, Onasled, and I discussed the possibility of incorporating a modified upper link from my old 99 Si. We never went much beyond conversation, but if I had the time and money, this would be a worth while experiment. The two cars have basically the same weight and weight distribution. The arrangement of the LCA is close...but mm matter here. Space within the strut tower and its strength need to be evaluated in sinc with a final arrangment that actually improves the mini's handling.
There are areas where the Si is so much better than the mini in terms of pure handling potential, but the car has other weaknesses that cannot be overcome - huge steering gear - 19:1 - and lifeless steering feel. The relatively weak body structure can be fixed.
going way off topic
I put the IE fixed plates on. A Very Nice upgrade!
They do add about 1/4" to ride height, and are a LOT sturdier than the stock bushings and carrier plate. No problem with these causing mushrooming.
The ride and sound of road-noise is affected slightly - as if the bearing was embedded in thicker rubber - yep - it is. The net is slightly less road noise, but it feels as if the struts were being better damped under stress (again - more rubber).
The handling is affected a lot - I'm glad I took advice here and loosened the 22mm rear sway bar to its softest setting. Turn-in isn't affected much, unless you accelerate while turning - like entering the road from a driveway - more traction there.
It is affected most when you are turning hard and the outside wheel is loaded. I noticed that when accelerating out of a corner, instead of holding the wheel steady and straightening out with the throttle using stock camber, the car now wants to turn into the corner - you have to relax the line a little earlier when you start to add gas, as the car does not have as much tendency to understeer.
It also adds gobs more traction when cornering - I'd guess at least 5mph faster through the twisties.
Bottom line - excellent! I got 1.8 degrees neg. camber and within a couple of hundredths from side to side. It doesn't seem to have any downside for the street, and certainly improves handling on twisty roads. It should cut my outside-edge tire wear considerably, so maybe even makes financial sense...
6^)
They do add about 1/4" to ride height, and are a LOT sturdier than the stock bushings and carrier plate. No problem with these causing mushrooming.
The ride and sound of road-noise is affected slightly - as if the bearing was embedded in thicker rubber - yep - it is. The net is slightly less road noise, but it feels as if the struts were being better damped under stress (again - more rubber).
The handling is affected a lot - I'm glad I took advice here and loosened the 22mm rear sway bar to its softest setting. Turn-in isn't affected much, unless you accelerate while turning - like entering the road from a driveway - more traction there.
It is affected most when you are turning hard and the outside wheel is loaded. I noticed that when accelerating out of a corner, instead of holding the wheel steady and straightening out with the throttle using stock camber, the car now wants to turn into the corner - you have to relax the line a little earlier when you start to add gas, as the car does not have as much tendency to understeer.
It also adds gobs more traction when cornering - I'd guess at least 5mph faster through the twisties.
Bottom line - excellent! I got 1.8 degrees neg. camber and within a couple of hundredths from side to side. It doesn't seem to have any downside for the street, and certainly improves handling on twisty roads. It should cut my outside-edge tire wear considerably, so maybe even makes financial sense...
6^)
Last edited by OldRick; Oct 18, 2008 at 05:39 PM.
I'm glad you like them. And yes, the main advantage is when the outside tire is loaded, beacause in that condition, instead of having only part of the tire width in contact with the road pavement, you'll now have all of it, if you're cornering fast enough to load the outside wheel enough, and that will allow for more traction and less understeer.
Of course, if you have too much negative camber, you risk to obtain the opposite effect because you'd need to corner so fast to load the outside wheel enough that you won't be able to do it, especially on public roads, so you won't have the whole tire width in contact with the road pavement
Of course, if you have too much negative camber, you risk to obtain the opposite effect because you'd need to corner so fast to load the outside wheel enough that you won't be able to do it, especially on public roads, so you won't have the whole tire width in contact with the road pavement
Bottom line - excellent! I got 1.8 degrees neg. camber and within a couple of hundredths from side to side. It doesn't seem to have any downside for the street, and certainly improves handling on twisty roads. It should cut my outside-edge tire wear considerably, so maybe even makes financial sense...
6^)
6^)
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My Bad, Here are the details from IE
"The fixed plate raise the car 3/16" (.188"). The adjustable street/track plates may raise the car 1/8" (.125") Neither of these are significant in my opinion."
"The fixed plate raise the car 3/16" (.188"). The adjustable street/track plates may raise the car 1/8" (.125") Neither of these are significant in my opinion."
Last edited by AutoXCooper.com; Oct 22, 2008 at 01:33 PM. Reason: fixing mistake
Seems all the people above think differently???
I always heard till now that they don't, BUT
Another friend just installed them this week and claimed about 1/8'' raise. Not sure if they may settle any or not?? Any truth to that??
I had planned to go this route also, but with my cabrio already alittle higher in front then I'd like, I hate to add even alittle to it..
I always heard till now that they don't, BUT
Another friend just installed them this week and claimed about 1/8'' raise. Not sure if they may settle any or not?? Any truth to that??
I had planned to go this route also, but with my cabrio already alittle higher in front then I'd like, I hate to add even alittle to it..
I don't know if Dustin is talking about the fixed or adjustable plates - probably the adjustables. From the photos showing differences in stack height, it's pretty clear that the fixed plates DO raise it a LITTLE. But it's really no big deal. And the change in handling and the other benefits of the Ireland fixed plates (beefy rubber mounts and mushroom protection) I think outweigh a 1/8-1/4" height increase... that's mouse nuts, IMHO....
But if it's that important to you than you bottom out your car on my drives, then keep it dragging the ground.
But if it's that important to you than you bottom out your car on my drives, then keep it dragging the ground.

The stack height of new IE Fixed plates is about 1/4" taller than my used OEM bushings.
How much they settle or compress, I don't know. It doesn't really matter to me, as the benefits of more camber far outweigh a slight ride height increase, IMHO...
How much they settle or compress, I don't know. It doesn't really matter to me, as the benefits of more camber far outweigh a slight ride height increase, IMHO...
Easy Paul, my car is not that low!! 
but as you see everyone is getting different results it looks like??
Results as in ride height. Everyone seems to really like the handling results though. Which is the most important..Mini Macky was probably thinking the same as I was on it since he asked the question

but as you see everyone is getting different results it looks like??
Results as in ride height. Everyone seems to really like the handling results though. Which is the most important..Mini Macky was probably thinking the same as I was on it since he asked the question
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From: Car Nut Since 1987, Owner Since Fall 2005, Vendor Since Fall 2007
OK, I was wrong and have edited the other post, the IE's will JACK UP a MINI Big Time,
No Really here's the numbers from IE "The fixed plate raise the car 3/16" (.188"). The adjustable street/track plates may raise the car 1/8" (.125") Neither of these are significant in my opinion."
No Really here's the numbers from IE "The fixed plate raise the car 3/16" (.188"). The adjustable street/track plates may raise the car 1/8" (.125") Neither of these are significant in my opinion."




