Suspension Adding GP trailing arms to R53 - what does it take?
#27
#29
6th Gear
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did the swap today. Figure 3 hours with a lift and air tools + alignment after.
On the drive home I went looking for some of my favorite curves, mostly off ramps since they tend to design the streets here with a chalk line snapped between two points. It may be all in my head but swear the car took a better set during transitions. Overall it just "feels" better. Yeah, I know I should say this as I am a source for the parts, but really, it does feel better. Can't wait to get out on track and check lap times.
I'm thinking this is a viable mod for the track set. Most of us have already put more then a few grand into suspensions, tires and wheels. This mod makes it all work better You can feel what the rear is doing even better than before and it feels better too adding to confidence levels.
OMG...where did it all go!!!
The New, the Old
When using the TCE larger rear rotor and OEM Caliper relocation kit some material needs to be removed to clearnace the two bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket. These are the areas that need to be addressed.
On the drive home I went looking for some of my favorite curves, mostly off ramps since they tend to design the streets here with a chalk line snapped between two points. It may be all in my head but swear the car took a better set during transitions. Overall it just "feels" better. Yeah, I know I should say this as I am a source for the parts, but really, it does feel better. Can't wait to get out on track and check lap times.
I'm thinking this is a viable mod for the track set. Most of us have already put more then a few grand into suspensions, tires and wheels. This mod makes it all work better You can feel what the rear is doing even better than before and it feels better too adding to confidence levels.
OMG...where did it all go!!!
The New, the Old
When using the TCE larger rear rotor and OEM Caliper relocation kit some material needs to be removed to clearnace the two bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket. These are the areas that need to be addressed.
Last edited by gnatster; 03-20-2008 at 09:38 PM. Reason: Added pics
#30
I did my R56 conversion by buying my parts from Classic MINI for a bit more than gnat's package price [both are far less than retail]. Buying the package is definitely easier as it's "in one box" versus doing a bunch of research and RealOEM scouring. Having lived with the car with the R56 trailing arms for a while now, I can attest that the R56 trailing arms definitely are a geometry improvement over the early steel arms in several ways; the pivot point is more logical and inherently binds less, and the reduction in unsprung mass will improve suspension resolution, making a more planted, more predictable setup.
#33
read this thread! the part numbers are all spelled out in post #2, i think. additionally, there are two different suppliers for these parts listed.
#35
Recently I had the GP trailing arms installed onto my MCS (yes, the actual GP trailing arms, not the R56 ones).
I have a few pics from the install, here.
It wasn't cheap (especially having to go to an international source to get ahold of the GP-unique parts), but it can be done!
Note that unlike the R56 trailing arm swap, when using the GP ones, you don't need the R56 rotational speed sensors (the R53 ones fit the GP trailing arms just fine), nor the Helix-supplied rear shock bushings. The OEM parts I listed in the first 2 posts in this thread are all that are needed.
The "REAR AXLE CARRIER" listed in post 1 was not needed, as expected.
I have a few pics from the install, here.
It wasn't cheap (especially having to go to an international source to get ahold of the GP-unique parts), but it can be done!
Note that unlike the R56 trailing arm swap, when using the GP ones, you don't need the R56 rotational speed sensors (the R53 ones fit the GP trailing arms just fine), nor the Helix-supplied rear shock bushings. The OEM parts I listed in the first 2 posts in this thread are all that are needed.
The "REAR AXLE CARRIER" listed in post 1 was not needed, as expected.
#37
Because that's what I wanted. I never said it made sense. My DPSM install didn't make sense either... nor did a large # of my other changes/upgrades.
I wanted the "real deal". There may not be a very substantive difference between the R56 trailing arms and the GP trailing arms, but there is a minor one... as proven by the different speed sensors and bushings required for the R56 conversion.
Will those differences have any impact on performance? Of course not. I just wanted the real thing, designed for the R53 from the get-go.
I wanted the "real deal". There may not be a very substantive difference between the R56 trailing arms and the GP trailing arms, but there is a minor one... as proven by the different speed sensors and bushings required for the R56 conversion.
Will those differences have any impact on performance? Of course not. I just wanted the real thing, designed for the R53 from the get-go.
#38
This thread is very helpful! I'm looking into going from an R50 to the R53 later this year. The R56/GP trailing arm conversion is a mod I am very interested in doing but I just wasn't sure on what parts I would need and how easy it is to do.
This thread as pretty much everything you would need!
I have read on Minitorque that the GP arm is actually 1 kg lighter than the R56 arm.
Cheers
This thread as pretty much everything you would need!
I have read on Minitorque that the GP arm is actually 1 kg lighter than the R56 arm.
Cheers
#39
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: a canyon, south Bay Area
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
After many years, I will finally make the time for this upgrade. As of now, I plan to go with the GP arms, so this thread is quite relevant. Yes, the GP arms are more expensive, but from the quotes received, each arm is about $45 more expensive, so a 90 buck delta. Given that one would not need the aftermkt stock bushings, like the ones sold by Helix, the price difference is more like $50.
That's not all that much, and when one considers that the R53 GP trailing arms will allow for more secure speed sensor fitment and won't present a need to remove the drop-link mount stanchions (Ryephile above), I find that worthwhile. And, as alluded earlier, the R53 trailing arms are indeed lighter, .75 pounds each, so in total 1.5 pounds lighter than the R56 option. Factoring-in that those stainless steel shock bushings are not needed for those going the GP route, the weight delta should be more like 2 pounds. A major reason one performs this mod is to lose mass...
In the case of the pricing I received, an extra 40 bucks for the GP's gets one 2 more pounds of savings (approx 14 lbs). For some, that is worth it alone. Along with ideal speed sensor fitment and no dorking-around with stanchion shaving, it's a no-brainer from my perspective...
I plan to mate these up with Onasled's trailing arm pick-ups. These can be seen here, in post #3:
http://www.trackmini.com/index.php/t...g-arm-pickups/
I suppose that will make for additional weight loss, although that is not highly important here (sprung / unsprung weight)...
A question - Is the "adjusting plate" really needed?
I've never been under a GP or R56, but it would seem that if one has aftermkt control arms, there would be no need for this part. I realize that I might be mistaken though... Thanks.
EDIT / ADD: I confirmed that I do not need that adjusting plate.
That's not all that much, and when one considers that the R53 GP trailing arms will allow for more secure speed sensor fitment and won't present a need to remove the drop-link mount stanchions (Ryephile above), I find that worthwhile. And, as alluded earlier, the R53 trailing arms are indeed lighter, .75 pounds each, so in total 1.5 pounds lighter than the R56 option. Factoring-in that those stainless steel shock bushings are not needed for those going the GP route, the weight delta should be more like 2 pounds. A major reason one performs this mod is to lose mass...
In the case of the pricing I received, an extra 40 bucks for the GP's gets one 2 more pounds of savings (approx 14 lbs). For some, that is worth it alone. Along with ideal speed sensor fitment and no dorking-around with stanchion shaving, it's a no-brainer from my perspective...
I plan to mate these up with Onasled's trailing arm pick-ups. These can be seen here, in post #3:
http://www.trackmini.com/index.php/t...g-arm-pickups/
I suppose that will make for additional weight loss, although that is not highly important here (sprung / unsprung weight)...
A question - Is the "adjusting plate" really needed?
I've never been under a GP or R56, but it would seem that if one has aftermkt control arms, there would be no need for this part. I realize that I might be mistaken though... Thanks.
EDIT / ADD: I confirmed that I do not need that adjusting plate.
Last edited by TonyB; 04-11-2014 at 12:22 PM.
#40
Where are you sourcing the GP control arms for that price? Is it still difficult to buy them if you are not a GP owner?
This mod is on my near term to-do list. I'm not that **** about those extra pounds but if the price difference for everything combined is really that insignificant, it may be worth doing it with the GP arms just for the better match.
This mod is on my near term to-do list. I'm not that **** about those extra pounds but if the price difference for everything combined is really that insignificant, it may be worth doing it with the GP arms just for the better match.
#41
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: a canyon, south Bay Area
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Where are you sourcing the GP control arms for that price? Is it still difficult to buy them if you are not a GP owner?
This mod is on my near term to-do list. I'm not that **** about those extra pounds but if the price difference for everything combined is really that insignificant, it may be worth doing it with the GP arms just for the better match.
This mod is on my near term to-do list. I'm not that **** about those extra pounds but if the price difference for everything combined is really that insignificant, it may be worth doing it with the GP arms just for the better match.
#42
I'm compiling a number of parts myself before starting the project. Need coilovers (still undecided what kind), different ARB setup, probably even upgrade the rear brakes while I am at it, plus upper and lower control arms, bump stops, ARB linkage, bushings... I figure do it once and do it right. What I have in there now from the previous owner is rather harsh (FSDs with shorter possibly worn springs, and a 22mm ARB that clonks like a steel pipe is bouncing around in the trunk).
#44
#45
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: a canyon, south Bay Area
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Recently I had the GP trailing arms installed onto my MCS (yes, the actual GP trailing arms, not the R56 ones).
I have a few pics from the install, here.
It wasn't cheap (especially having to go to an international source to get ahold of the GP-unique parts), but it can be done!
Note that unlike the R56 trailing arm swap, when using the GP ones, you don't need the R56 rotational speed sensors (the R53 ones fit the GP trailing arms just fine), nor the Helix-supplied rear shock bushings. The OEM parts I listed in the first 2 posts in this thread are all that are needed.
The "REAR AXLE CARRIER" listed in post 1 was not needed, as expected.
I have a few pics from the install, here.
It wasn't cheap (especially having to go to an international source to get ahold of the GP-unique parts), but it can be done!
Note that unlike the R56 trailing arm swap, when using the GP ones, you don't need the R56 rotational speed sensors (the R53 ones fit the GP trailing arms just fine), nor the Helix-supplied rear shock bushings. The OEM parts I listed in the first 2 posts in this thread are all that are needed.
The "REAR AXLE CARRIER" listed in post 1 was not needed, as expected.
Since a replacement "Rear Axle Carrier" is indeed not needed, as you confirmed above, I would think, unless I'm missing something, the corresponding bolts and nuts that connect the four control arms are also not needed, correct? That would be:
33326763265 - HEX SCREW WITH COLLAR (Qty: 4)
33326760668 - SELF-LOCKING COLLAR NUT (Qty: 4)
Otherwise, I think I might have everything needed for the GP swap, finally...
#46
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Minibeagle
Stock Problems/Issues
6
08-13-2015 10:00 AM