A $100 bucks?! Holy cow..the most I have been offered so far has been $15.00

Make your offers soon gents

 

yeah that poor sucker, lol

 

I would have sold it to him for less but he wouldnt trade front sway bars

 

Gents..I installed Webb Motorsports RSB last night...havent but a chance to take it a spin around the neighbor hood at 1 AM.
Questions:
-1) I am getting a sort popping sound now in the rear..that could only be related to a couple of things. a) I never greased up the bushings..do they need grease? b) There is a Washer on the lower droplink...which side of the mountpoint does it go on labeled 16 below? Inside or outside of it?

 

HI. I got your PM but I thought I would reply here. I did not grease
the fittings. The M 10 flat washer ( # 16 in the instructions) goes between the Rod End and the Mini Arm. It does NOT go next to the head of bolt.

Let us know how it goes. What setting did you use? I am using four marks from the end.

 

Thanks looks like I have that right! Only thing I see so far is that the bottm drop-link lock nuts may be rubbing on the arm. How much pre-load did you put on the droplinks? Do you just adjust the length until it sort of pushes the swaybar up?

Cheers

Cody

 

What I did with mine ( I think that I got it from a thread here) was to get the arm somewhat higher than level at the back end ( back of car) and while the car was on the ground put on and adjust the down link lengths such that there was no preload. In this position it looked as if neither the arm nor the down links would touch anything as they moved through their entire arc

 

Thanks for the tip. I also searched around on the NAM forum that said to have the bar horizontal to the ground. So did that too. Pretty tight fit with the fingers when the car is on the ground and the wheels are on to adjust the droplinks...

Here is pic:


You can see I am at 3.5 Marks..so we will see how that works w/ the stock suspension. Heading out for a test drive...thx!

 

Well just got back...wow..what a difference! The question I have now is the "creaking" sound is going to drive me nuts! I tried some WD-40 just to see if I could isolate it..slightly better...but no dice. Any suggestions?

Thx!

cp

 

cpayne, I can't help with the creaking because either:

(1) my bar isn't creaking or

(2) I can't hear the creaking because I have a Blue Flame header/cat back,
pulley, open Alta CAI/PSRS/heim Joint control arms etc , which is
what I suggest you do if the creaking persists

 

Haha...no worries you have helped plenty! I will check w/ Randy as he is local to me here in Denver

Cheers

cp

 

 

These are the instructions that Randy emailed to me when I asked about installation of the bar:

"What I do is set the bar slightly lower than level so that when the car is loaded on the ground, the bar is slightly higher than level, and clears the trailing arm. Once you have that, make the droplink the right length to meet the trailing arm. Attach one, then attach the other so there is no preload on the other droplink. The endlinks should be the same [settings from] side to side."

I had the endlinks hitting the trailing arm when I first put it together and it made a "popping" noise. I took the end links off, readjusted the bar so that it would be higher than level as in Randy's instructions, and then reset the endlinks so that they'd clear.

Another tip that I gave another NAM'er was that you need to ensure that the bar (without the end links and the arms that bolt onto the end of the bar) can rotate freely in the mounting brackets with your hand. I had to loosen the brackets and reposition them a couple of times until the bar rotated fairly freely.

Hopefully this will help you. Good luck!

Darren

 

Fairly freely is right...holy cow...I have been messing with this for an hour now...and just when I think I get it right...and i tighten the 2 bolts it makes the bar impossible to spin by hand again. Cant seem to find the magic position of the bearing blocks that the bar spins fairly freely when tightened?!

 

So just got back from a test drive and the creak is gone! There are a few things I did but not sure which one fixed.
-1) Used some Lithium Grease on the bar
-2) Adjusted the bearing blocks to be equidistant, meaning they are mounted equally front to back. Also made sure bar was equal length on each side which is ~94 mm from barend to bearing block via my digital caliper, if you are curious. I never did get the bar to just float in my hands after tightening the bolts...was near impossible, if not, to twist by hand

So we will see if it was the adjustment or grease that fixed the issue..I hope the adjustment was the issue.

 

You have been appointed resident Webb Sway Bar Expert

 

Trial by fire

 

Well, hopefully it wasn't the grease so you won't have to regrease in the future. How do you like the ride?

 

The ride is AWESOME...totally transformed the car. I can really flog it around corners now where before the front tires would be screaming and the DSC would be cutting power.

 

So turning a corner is no longer a PAIN