what oil to use?
#51
The only way to know which oil suits the Mini and your driving habit best is to do a series of analysis. Boutique oils tend to perform better but don't forget that measurement for wear is in "parts per million" or PPM. So a few PPMs difference between a fancy brand and a mass produced one every 5000-10,000 miles isn't gonna make a difference in the long run.
Currently I'm running Mobil 1 in both my Mini and VW. I've been doing 7500mi oil change for the VW. At 90k, I ran it to 9k and had the oil analyzed. The report showed lower than average wear and the oil could go to 10k. The car currently has 180k on the clock. I have a feeling that the engine won't be the first component to fail.... the trans will.
For the Mini, I'll be changing the oil at 7500 miles and about 20 months of use. I'll send it in for an analysis and go from there.
Currently I'm running Mobil 1 in both my Mini and VW. I've been doing 7500mi oil change for the VW. At 90k, I ran it to 9k and had the oil analyzed. The report showed lower than average wear and the oil could go to 10k. The car currently has 180k on the clock. I have a feeling that the engine won't be the first component to fail.... the trans will.
For the Mini, I'll be changing the oil at 7500 miles and about 20 months of use. I'll send it in for an analysis and go from there.
#54
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In my TDI I have been using Total INEO MC3 (formerly Elf Solaris LSX) since I got the car at 78,000mi. It's a quality Group5, and my analysis have been spot on with 15k OCI. The car now has 180k, and I have never had a turbo issue, it consumes about 1 quart in 10,000 miles, and when I had the valve cover off to lock down the cam for the last timing belt change, it was clean as a whistle up there. I'll probably stick with Total for the MINI as well.
#55
In my TDI I have been using Total INEO MC3 (formerly Elf Solaris LSX) since I got the car at 78,000mi. It's a quality Group5, and my analysis have been spot on with 15k OCI. The car now has 180k, and I have never had a turbo issue, it consumes about 1 quart in 10,000 miles, and when I had the valve cover off to lock down the cam for the last timing belt change, it was clean as a whistle up there. I'll probably stick with Total for the MINI as well.
http://lubrify.com/total-synthetic-o...-Marketing.pdf
Is the LL-04 better than the LL-01 required now by MINI?
#56
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I've been using autohausaz.com for my supplier.
I want to point out that TDIs can be sensitive to lubrication. I really didn't do my own research, but went with one popular choice on Freds TDI page forum, where scientific quantification abounds - lots of engineer types driving those cars. I'm a pretty gentle driver. On that TDI, I went 163,000 miles on the original rear brakes, and have over 100,000 on the current fronts. I have 80,000 miles on my current set of tires. Plus it's a diesel burning ULSD. I think the early MINI engine is probably more forgiving of the type of oil used, and on a petrol car, I'll naturally adjust my OCIs to suit. I just wanted to mention a quality brand that I didn't see listed in this thread. I think the name change confused people, and few people realize what Total actually is.
As to the LL04 question, refer to my "monkey see, monkey do" statement above (in other words, I don't know).
I want to point out that TDIs can be sensitive to lubrication. I really didn't do my own research, but went with one popular choice on Freds TDI page forum, where scientific quantification abounds - lots of engineer types driving those cars. I'm a pretty gentle driver. On that TDI, I went 163,000 miles on the original rear brakes, and have over 100,000 on the current fronts. I have 80,000 miles on my current set of tires. Plus it's a diesel burning ULSD. I think the early MINI engine is probably more forgiving of the type of oil used, and on a petrol car, I'll naturally adjust my OCIs to suit. I just wanted to mention a quality brand that I didn't see listed in this thread. I think the name change confused people, and few people realize what Total actually is.
As to the LL04 question, refer to my "monkey see, monkey do" statement above (in other words, I don't know).
#57
I've been using autohausaz.com for my supplier.
I want to point out that TDIs can be sensitive to lubrication. I really didn't do my own research, but went with one popular choice on Freds TDI page forum, where scientific quantification abounds - lots of engineer types driving those cars. I'm a pretty gentle driver. On that TDI, I went 163,000 miles on the original rear brakes, and have over 100,000 on the current fronts. I have 80,000 miles on my current set of tires. Plus it's a diesel burning ULSD. I think the early MINI engine is probably more forgiving of the type of oil used, and on a petrol car, I'll naturally adjust my OCIs to suit. I just wanted to mention a quality brand that I didn't see listed in this thread. I think the name change confused people, and few people realize what Total actually is.
As to the LL04 question, refer to my "monkey see, monkey do" statement above (in other words, I don't know).
I want to point out that TDIs can be sensitive to lubrication. I really didn't do my own research, but went with one popular choice on Freds TDI page forum, where scientific quantification abounds - lots of engineer types driving those cars. I'm a pretty gentle driver. On that TDI, I went 163,000 miles on the original rear brakes, and have over 100,000 on the current fronts. I have 80,000 miles on my current set of tires. Plus it's a diesel burning ULSD. I think the early MINI engine is probably more forgiving of the type of oil used, and on a petrol car, I'll naturally adjust my OCIs to suit. I just wanted to mention a quality brand that I didn't see listed in this thread. I think the name change confused people, and few people realize what Total actually is.
As to the LL04 question, refer to my "monkey see, monkey do" statement above (in other words, I don't know).
Searching around the 'net it appears LL-04 is the same as LL-01 except formulated for the DPF equiped diesels. (Diesel Particulate Filter). My 2008 Duramax has a DPF and runs CJ-4 low ash rated Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel truck engine oil.
Mobil 1 ESP has the LL-04 approval:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ula_5W-30.aspx
Last edited by MCS Fever; 01-05-2011 at 06:56 PM.
#59
#60
I was also wondering if you guys always change the drain plug? I was planing on getting this drain plug, but do you think this one requires to be change each interval since it is an oil drain valve? Also, do you guys torque your filter and drain plug with a torque wrench?
Mobil 1 0W/40, easy to find on sale at AutoZone, O'Rielly etc. Yes you want to torque anything with a torque spec, keeps you from over tightening them really. If you are looking at the Fumoto drain valve for a 1st Gen MINI, go for it - very handy. Yes leave it in place!
I have a Fumoto on my diesel to make the 10qrt drains easier, and one on the kid's Mazda 3, to make his frequent 7,500 mile oil changes easier. He racks up that in no time with 100 miles a day he puts on. As a side note Mazda recommends 5W/20 oil and we ran synthetic from the first oil change. Then we switched to the 0W/20 energy conservation oil and he went from under 400 miles to a tank of gas to over 400 miles to a tank. I bet a MINI would get good MPG on the 0W/30, too bad it's not on the MINI list of approved oils.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_0W-20.aspx
On the truck I zip a little zip tie around it in the groove of the lever of the Fumoto valve just for added insurance. Never know when I will be offroad and run over brush etc.
Last edited by MCS Fever; 01-06-2011 at 07:01 AM.
#61
Me... I just use 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40 from M1 or Valvoline or Pennzoil... whichever is the cheapest at the time.
Last edited by Cadenza; 01-06-2011 at 10:38 AM.
#62
Just replaced the front rotors/pads on my New Beetle; they have 110k and some left. The rears have 50k so far with 1/2 the thickness remaining. For driving in SoCal, that's awesome goodness.
These pads look like Andre the giant compared to Mini's.
#63
You can always give it test run. Take out a sample at 5k and have it analyzed. Of course you must have 1 or 2 oil reports on your current oil as reference for comparison. Honda uses 0w-20 with very good results... but I suspect their engine tolerance specs is tighter.
Me... I just use 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40 from M1 or Valvoline or Pennzoil... whichever is the cheapest at the time.
Me... I just use 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40 from M1 or Valvoline or Pennzoil... whichever is the cheapest at the time.
#64
Mobil 1 0W/40, easy to find on sale at AutoZone, O'Rielly etc. Yes you want to torque anything with a torque spec, keeps you from over tightening them really. If you are looking at the Fumoto drain valve for a 1st Gen MINI, go for it - very handy. Yes leave it in place!
I have a Fumoto on my diesel to make the 10qrt drains easier, and one on the kid's Mazda 3, to make his frequent 7,500 mile oil changes easier. He racks up that in no time with 100 miles a day he puts on. As a side note Mazda recommends 5W/20 oil and we ran synthetic from the first oil change. Then we switched to the 0W/20 energy conservation oil and he went from under 400 miles to a tank of gas to over 400 miles to a tank. I bet a MINI would get good MPG on the 0W/30, too bad it's not on the MINI list of approved oils.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_0W-20.aspx
On the truck I zip a little zip tie around it in the groove of the lever of the Fumoto valve just for added insurance. Never know when I will be offroad and run over brush etc.
I have a Fumoto on my diesel to make the 10qrt drains easier, and one on the kid's Mazda 3, to make his frequent 7,500 mile oil changes easier. He racks up that in no time with 100 miles a day he puts on. As a side note Mazda recommends 5W/20 oil and we ran synthetic from the first oil change. Then we switched to the 0W/20 energy conservation oil and he went from under 400 miles to a tank of gas to over 400 miles to a tank. I bet a MINI would get good MPG on the 0W/30, too bad it's not on the MINI list of approved oils.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_0W-20.aspx
On the truck I zip a little zip tie around it in the groove of the lever of the Fumoto valve just for added insurance. Never know when I will be offroad and run over brush etc.
Thanks bro. I appreciate all the advise you provided me. This is all helpful for me. I been reading this thread back and forth trying to understand it more in depth, but I am still confused about somethings. People in the beginning of this thread said that Mobil 1 ans Castrol is not really 100% synthetic. They said something about it being hydrocracked dino oil with just enough additives to barely be listed as a synthetic oil. Is that still true?
As of the Fumoto, you don't have to change it at all? When you talked about switching your oil to energy conservation, you got better MPG. I was wondering what is the best overall oil. I don't really know how to test it and all. I got the car used around 52K and now I have 72K. I had the car for a year and 4 months. The car gets about a good 500 miles a week since my sister uses my car as a HEAVY commuter. I just want the best oil for my car so that my car can last for a very long time without any problems. I would love for it to last up to 250K+ (If that's possible). Thanks alot.
Paul
#65
I have not studied the whole redonkulous oil debate extensively. I do know "synthetic" is a marketing term and not all synthetics are truly synthetic. Never the less they are oustanding oils. I do know Mobil 1 was the first mass marketed synthetic and I have stuck with it for many decades, in everything from lawnmowers on up to my diesel truck that holds 10qrts.
All the oils MINI recommends are excellent, including the 0W/40 Moble 1. With 500+ miles a week similar to what my son does, I am sure you could do 7,500-10,000 OCIs and be fine, very fine.
Yes - The Fumoto valves are designed to stay put, simply flip the lever for oil changes.
All the oils MINI recommends are excellent, including the 0W/40 Moble 1. With 500+ miles a week similar to what my son does, I am sure you could do 7,500-10,000 OCIs and be fine, very fine.
Yes - The Fumoto valves are designed to stay put, simply flip the lever for oil changes.
#66
I have not studied the whole redonkulous oil debate extensively. I do know "synthetic" is a marketing term and not all synthetics are truly synthetic. Never the less they are oustanding oils. I do know Mobil 1 was the first mass marketed synthetic and I have stuck with it for many decades, in everything from lawnmowers on up to my diesel truck that holds 10qrts.
All the oils MINI recommends are excellent, including the 0W/40 Moble 1. With 500+ miles a week similar to what my son does, I am sure you could do 7,500-10,000 OCIs and be fine, very fine.
Yes - The Fumoto valves are designed to stay put, simply flip the lever for oil changes.
All the oils MINI recommends are excellent, including the 0W/40 Moble 1. With 500+ miles a week similar to what my son does, I am sure you could do 7,500-10,000 OCIs and be fine, very fine.
Yes - The Fumoto valves are designed to stay put, simply flip the lever for oil changes.
#67
I been reading this thread back and forth trying to understand it more in depth, but I am still confused about somethings. People in the beginning of this thread said that Mobil 1 ans Castrol is not really 100% synthetic. They said something about it being hydrocracked dino oil with just enough additives to barely be listed as a synthetic oil. Is that still true?
#68
I was also wondering if you guys always change the drain plug? I was planing on getting this drain plug, but do you think this one requires to be change each interval since it is an oil drain valve? Also, do you guys torque your filter and drain plug with a torque wrench?
Here you go....presenting the wonderful Fumoto oil drain plug...
http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...02&SortOrder=1
#69
Here you go....presenting the wonderful Fumoto oil drain plug...
http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...02&SortOrder=1
http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...02&SortOrder=1
#70
24 months: http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...50#Post2151750
39 months: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...84#Post2121384
The oil itself actually doesn't wear down. It's fuel dilution, moisture, oxidation, excessive heat and contaminants that break down the additives package and render the oil less effective. Other factors come into play as well - engine design, sump size, location, weather, driving style, etc... YMMV. So if the engine is running clean and you're not doing short trips, it's actually quite safe. My Mini usually sees 2x20mi jaunts with 50/50 hwy/city about 2-3 times a week in mild SoCal climate.
I'm close to the 7500mi/20months mark so we'll see.
Last edited by Cadenza; 03-01-2011 at 01:52 PM.
#71
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i have been using royal purple 5w30. is this ok for a R53 or should i be doing something different? and then i have also been confused on the interval. how often should i change it? i changed the oil light an it said 15000 between changes, but that just doesnt sit right with me. i have always been stubborn on 3000 but then again, my mini is about 35 years newer then anything i had prior so what is a good rule of thumb for these beasties. thank you.
#73
#74
Mini cooper Recommends these brands (posted on there site)
-Castrol Syntech European Formula SAW 0W-30
-Mobile 1 SAE 0W-40
-Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
-Valvoline Synpower SAE 5W-30