Oil Temp and Water Temp Question
Originally Posted by not-so-rednwhitecooper
How about letting us in on the factory location for the chrono pack oil temp sensor?
Neil
05 MCS
96 M3
Originally Posted by mini146
I mounted my oil temp sender by drilling and tapping the oil pan - probably gives you the highest temps the oil reaches (in my case, over 285 F, prior to oil cooler installation). BMP sells an adapter that screws into the factory oil pressure sender location and has 3 ports to mount senders, so you could mount oil temp and pressure there and plug your factory sender in, too. People have made an adapter like this at home, too, by using plumbing parts.
My water temp sender is mounted via an adapter spliced into the water hose above the radiator. I used this:http://www.uamotorsports.com/proddet...ater%5FCoupler
for a 1" hose diameter.
Also, look at: http://www.racingworks.com/gauge_misc.htm
There are hose adapters and oil temp adapters that replace the oil drain plug, if you'd rather do that.
I am not sure if the thread sizes for the different brands of senders are standardized or not.
Have fun!
Ada
My water temp sender is mounted via an adapter spliced into the water hose above the radiator. I used this:http://www.uamotorsports.com/proddet...ater%5FCoupler
for a 1" hose diameter.
Also, look at: http://www.racingworks.com/gauge_misc.htm
There are hose adapters and oil temp adapters that replace the oil drain plug, if you'd rather do that.
I am not sure if the thread sizes for the different brands of senders are standardized or not.
Have fun!
Ada
If your intension is to use a brass tee piece in the oil filter housing location to accommodate the oem oil pressure sender and an aftermarket sender don't do it .I tried it twice, and both times engine vibration and the weight of the two senders broke off the brass nipple.the pic's show how I solved the problem. I had the line custom made and remotely mounted the senders.
Originally Posted by lotus87
If your intension is to use a brass tee piece in the oil filter housing location to accommodate the oem oil pressure sender and an aftermarket sender don't do it .I tried it twice, and both times engine vibration and the weight of the two senders broke off the brass nipple.the pic's show how I solved the problem. I had the line custom made and remotely mounted the senders.
do you have the fiting sizes by chance? also, where did you find a piece of braided hose with fitting installed on the ends?
Nice solution
Originally Posted by lotus87
If your intension is to use a brass tee piece in the oil filter housing location to accommodate the oem oil pressure sender and an aftermarket sender don't do it .I tried it twice, and both times engine vibration and the weight of the two senders broke off the brass nipple.the pic's show how I solved the problem. I had the line custom made and remotely mounted the senders.
Also since this is dead ended connection with no purge/bleed at the senders so unless you bleed them your readings may not be to accurate.
The reason I think this is because there must be compressible air in the flexible line unless you bleed them with the engine running.
Did you add an Oil temp. gauge also?
The fittings are 3/8 NPT and if you get the proper brass ones there is no problem. I have my oil pressure sending unit and the OEM pressure switch on the same T fitting. Installed both over 3 months ago and no issues.
Originally Posted by lotus87
If your intension is to use a brass tee piece in the oil filter housing location to accommodate the oem oil pressure sender and an aftermarket sender don't do it .I tried it twice, and both times engine vibration and the weight of the two senders broke off the brass nipple.the pic's show how I solved the problem. I had the line custom made and remotely mounted the senders.
I haven't seen any mention of bleeding air from the lines of any manufacturer's mechanical pressure gauges, but I will probably add a fitting or two that will allow me to bleed the lines anyway.
Your concern about air in the line is a very good point? a solution would be to slowly open one of the senders with the engine idling, until oil just appears around the threads and then close it. A better method would be to drill and tap the centre of the tee peice, and install a bleed screw. Which is what I will probably do.
I agree that a bleed screw would be preferable. To bleed air from the line, you would simply loosen and tighten a disposable screw instead of messing with the (comparatively expensive) senders.
Keep it simple
I would bleed them like this, at the firewall mounted juction block leave one of the senders loose enought to weep a little oil under pressure, start engine, let idle, with rag in hand tilt block up so loose sender is at highest point, tighten up sender as air bubbles disappear from oil weeping around threads.
Oil Pressure Gauge Bleed Screw.
Originally Posted by G. P. Burdell
I agree that a bleed screw would be preferable. To bleed air from the line, you would simply loosen and tighten a disposable screw instead of messing with the (comparatively expensive) senders.
Originally Posted by lotus87
If your intension is to use a brass tee piece in the oil filter housing location to accommodate the oem oil pressure sender and an aftermarket sender don't do it .I tried it twice, and both times engine vibration and the weight of the two senders broke off the brass nipple.the pic's show how I solved the problem. I had the line custom made and remotely mounted the senders.
Neil
05 MCS
96 M3
Nice work
Originally Posted by lotus87
Bleed screw installed, works great.
I found these Steel Braided Gauge Lines
here, http://racerpartswholesale.com/
well, i'll probably end up taping a hole next to the drain plug in that flat area of the pan.
I found a place in front of the IC for the water temp, looks like some kind of inspection port, maybe for some diagnosis equipment. it was the same threads as the sending unit, so its all good. i might just have to ground it somewhere else though, the neck i tapped into is plastic, so i'll have to do something about the ground.
anyone set up an an ammeter? I am still kinda scared about trying to reach down into the bottomless pit we call an engine bay and connect some wires to the alternator
I think thats about it. I gotta connect some more wiring and i should be all set.
Then, you have to keep an eye out for my custom exhaust, i just bought 200 bucks worth of mandrel bent tubing to piece together a new exhaust for my car
oh yeah, here are those gauges, from top to bottom, Boost, Volt., Oil, and Water Temp i like the A pillar gauges. Looks a bit heavy, but they are all right in plain view and very easy to see!!!!

I found a place in front of the IC for the water temp, looks like some kind of inspection port, maybe for some diagnosis equipment. it was the same threads as the sending unit, so its all good. i might just have to ground it somewhere else though, the neck i tapped into is plastic, so i'll have to do something about the ground.
anyone set up an an ammeter? I am still kinda scared about trying to reach down into the bottomless pit we call an engine bay and connect some wires to the alternator
I think thats about it. I gotta connect some more wiring and i should be all set.
Then, you have to keep an eye out for my custom exhaust, i just bought 200 bucks worth of mandrel bent tubing to piece together a new exhaust for my car
oh yeah, here are those gauges, from top to bottom, Boost, Volt., Oil, and Water Temp i like the A pillar gauges. Looks a bit heavy, but they are all right in plain view and very easy to see!!!!



