Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Oil Temp and Water Temp Question

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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 10:36 AM
  #26  
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NeilM
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From: Fort Wayne, IN
Originally Posted by not-so-rednwhitecooper
How about letting us in on the factory location for the chrono pack oil temp sensor?
I would if I had any clue! It's buried deep down someplace.

Neil
05 MCS
96 M3
 
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Old Jan 4, 2006 | 03:53 PM
  #27  
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COR BLMY
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From: Concord, California
Thanks for the info on the A Pilar air bag
Now I won't be scared to mess with it.
I want to paint mine as close as possable to match the flat BLACK dash.
Being white just bugs me.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 12:09 AM
  #28  
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Those who have Chrono Pack, is the normal water temp pointing at 12 0'clock position?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 01:42 AM
  #29  
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Profpatpending
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Originally Posted by mini146
I mounted my oil temp sender by drilling and tapping the oil pan - probably gives you the highest temps the oil reaches (in my case, over 285 F, prior to oil cooler installation). BMP sells an adapter that screws into the factory oil pressure sender location and has 3 ports to mount senders, so you could mount oil temp and pressure there and plug your factory sender in, too. People have made an adapter like this at home, too, by using plumbing parts.

My water temp sender is mounted via an adapter spliced into the water hose above the radiator. I used this:http://www.uamotorsports.com/proddet...ater%5FCoupler
for a 1" hose diameter.

Also, look at: http://www.racingworks.com/gauge_misc.htm
There are hose adapters and oil temp adapters that replace the oil drain plug, if you'd rather do that.

I am not sure if the thread sizes for the different brands of senders are standardized or not.

Have fun!

Ada
do you have a link or part number for this???
 
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 03:05 AM
  #30  
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lotus87
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Autometer Water Temp

Originally Posted by not-so-rednwhitecooper
bump, does any know ?
You mean like this.The ground term is solderd to the body of the tee piece. on the backside.(can't see it)
 
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 04:52 PM
  #31  
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Yes the normal water temp is at 12:00 postion.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 12:02 AM
  #32  
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THX rick
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 06:59 AM
  #33  
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Where would one be able to get an adaptor like in the pro mini gauges for the oil pressure sensor? This adaptor taps right into where the stock pressure sensor is.

- Garrett
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 02:38 PM
  #34  
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i just wanna know where the hell the oil presure sender is to begin with!!


i cna get an adapter for it at summit prety easily.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 03:00 PM
  #35  
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The sensor is located in the area of where the oil filter is. If you look further down from the oil filter housing, there is a sensor that goes into the block.

Garrett
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 06:02 PM
  #36  
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If your intension is to use a brass tee piece in the oil filter housing location to accommodate the oem oil pressure sender and an aftermarket sender don't do it .I tried it twice, and both times engine vibration and the weight of the two senders broke off the brass nipple.the pic's show how I solved the problem. I had the line custom made and remotely mounted the senders.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 06:07 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by lotus87
If your intension is to use a brass tee piece in the oil filter housing location to accommodate the oem oil pressure sender and an aftermarket sender don't do it .I tried it twice, and both times engine vibration and the weight of the two senders broke off the brass nipple.the pic's show how I solved the problem. I had the line custom made and remotely mounted the senders.
Good work, i like it.

do you have the fiting sizes by chance? also, where did you find a piece of braided hose with fitting installed on the ends?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 06:08 PM
  #38  
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I want to mount it with the stock pressure sensor. I know promini offers the adaptor, but they want something like 40 dollars for it!

- Garrett
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 06:12 PM
  #39  
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Well, with the cost of AN fittings and braided line, you might as well just buy the promini adapter then. Sounds like a better way to go to me.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 03:28 AM
  #40  
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Me also I seek an adapter of oil pressure for my Autometer pressure gauge. You can give me the reference of the Promini part because I have problem to have it.

thank you
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 07:57 AM
  #41  
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Nice solution

Originally Posted by lotus87
If your intension is to use a brass tee piece in the oil filter housing location to accommodate the oem oil pressure sender and an aftermarket sender don't do it .I tried it twice, and both times engine vibration and the weight of the two senders broke off the brass nipple.the pic's show how I solved the problem. I had the line custom made and remotely mounted the senders.
The OEM sender is male 3/8 NTP I believe, do you think it makes any difference in pressure reading if a smaller diameter flexible line is used.
Also since this is dead ended connection with no purge/bleed at the senders so unless you bleed them your readings may not be to accurate.
The reason I think this is because there must be compressible air in the flexible line unless you bleed them with the engine running.
Did you add an Oil temp. gauge also?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:44 AM
  #42  
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The fittings are 3/8 NPT and if you get the proper brass ones there is no problem. I have my oil pressure sending unit and the OEM pressure switch on the same T fitting. Installed both over 3 months ago and no issues.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 10:51 AM
  #43  
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G. P. Burdell
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Originally Posted by lotus87
If your intension is to use a brass tee piece in the oil filter housing location to accommodate the oem oil pressure sender and an aftermarket sender don't do it .I tried it twice, and both times engine vibration and the weight of the two senders broke off the brass nipple.the pic's show how I solved the problem. I had the line custom made and remotely mounted the senders.
Nice! I'm about to do something very similar on my Cooper. The VDO oil pressure sending unit is huge, and I couldn't imagine putting it on a tee on the oil filter housing. I'm planning to put the instruments on the other side of that plastic wall to keep them out of the way when I change the oil or do other work under the bonnet.

I haven't seen any mention of bleeding air from the lines of any manufacturer's mechanical pressure gauges, but I will probably add a fitting or two that will allow me to bleed the lines anyway.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 02:57 AM
  #44  
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Your concern about air in the line is a very good point? a solution would be to slowly open one of the senders with the engine idling, until oil just appears around the threads and then close it. A better method would be to drill and tap the centre of the tee peice, and install a bleed screw. Which is what I will probably do.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 07:50 AM
  #45  
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G. P. Burdell
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I agree that a bleed screw would be preferable. To bleed air from the line, you would simply loosen and tighten a disposable screw instead of messing with the (comparatively expensive) senders.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 12:38 PM
  #46  
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norm03s
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Keep it simple

I would bleed them like this, at the firewall mounted juction block leave one of the senders loose enought to weep a little oil under pressure, start engine, let idle, with rag in hand tilt block up so loose sender is at highest point, tighten up sender as air bubbles disappear from oil weeping around threads.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 03:27 AM
  #47  
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Oil Pressure Gauge Bleed Screw.

Originally Posted by G. P. Burdell
I agree that a bleed screw would be preferable. To bleed air from the line, you would simply loosen and tighten a disposable screw instead of messing with the (comparatively expensive) senders.
Bleed screw installed, works great.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 06:36 AM
  #48  
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NeilM
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From: Fort Wayne, IN
Originally Posted by lotus87
If your intension is to use a brass tee piece in the oil filter housing location to accommodate the oem oil pressure sender and an aftermarket sender don't do it .I tried it twice, and both times engine vibration and the weight of the two senders broke off the brass nipple.the pic's show how I solved the problem. I had the line custom made and remotely mounted the senders.
Good solution. This seems to be recommended practice for 4 cylinder engines, which vibrate a fair amount. For instance on my 6-cyl E36 M3 a direct mounted oil distribution block with that big VDO sender works just fine, but the E30 M3 guys, whose engines are notoriously vibration prone, do what you did.

Neil
05 MCS
96 M3
 
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Old Mar 23, 2006 | 03:27 PM
  #49  
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Nice work

Originally Posted by lotus87
Bleed screw installed, works great.
How long is your flexible line?
I found these Steel Braided Gauge Lines
here, http://racerpartswholesale.com/
 
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 03:28 PM
  #50  
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indy82799
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From: Space Coast, Florida
Originally Posted by not-so-rednwhitecooper
well, i'll probably end up taping a hole next to the drain plug in that flat area of the pan.

I found a place in front of the IC for the water temp, looks like some kind of inspection port, maybe for some diagnosis equipment. it was the same threads as the sending unit, so its all good. i might just have to ground it somewhere else though, the neck i tapped into is plastic, so i'll have to do something about the ground.

anyone set up an an ammeter? I am still kinda scared about trying to reach down into the bottomless pit we call an engine bay and connect some wires to the alternator

I think thats about it. I gotta connect some more wiring and i should be all set.


Then, you have to keep an eye out for my custom exhaust, i just bought 200 bucks worth of mandrel bent tubing to piece together a new exhaust for my car



oh yeah, here are those gauges, from top to bottom, Boost, Volt., Oil, and Water Temp i like the A pillar gauges. Looks a bit heavy, but they are all right in plain view and very easy to see!!!!

Thats REALLY gonna hurt when the airbag goes off!!!!
 
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