During the break in period I was going to change the oil at 1000 miles and at 5000 miles and then when the MINI indicated interval pops up. When I do the 1000 mile change I was going to try some sort of "flush". Would it be best to do the change and then drive say 100 miles and then just change the oil again or might there be a better approach. On a somewhat different note...any comments on Slick 50?

 

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STAY away from slick 50.. that stuff is for old cars. .. you have a brand spankin new car.

if you car concerned about using some sort of flush. trying using the best motor oil like REDLINE oils. it will clean what other oils leave behind. (your engine is new.. there is nothing there yet) i switched to redline 5w30 at 3000 miles and it has been wonderfull.. my car doesnt even sip oil.

good luck...

check out www.bobistheoilguy.com

they have alot of info regarding flushes, oils, aditives, etc.

 

Second that...do NOT use Slick 50, it contains teflon which is shouldn't be used in an engine... if you must use an aftermarket additive (not necessary in my opinion if you use Synthetics and change your oil often), then use a good quality Molybdenum disulfide like Mr. Moly or other brand using SUSPENDED Mos2.

Cheers

 

Slick 50 is JUNK.
If you want the best, use Redline 5W30. I changed my oil at 2200 miles then, dealer did it again at 10K (using my Redline oil). Next scheduled change will be near 25K. I may do one myself at 17-18K but, it really isn't necessary. With Redline you can go 15K between changes with no sweat
BTW: I have been using Redline products for many years and wouldn't spend the extra money for their stuff if it didn't perform.

 

It is not advisable to use a flush unless you are well past the warranty and have an actual problem to fix (eg ticking valve adjusters, etc). Solvents don't lubricate well and you won't get it all out when the oil is drained, so it isn't a preventive maintenance item.

Teflon is fluorinated plastic. You can easily burn it into carbon in your frying pan on the stove (and probably have). Your engine is a lot hotter in places than a frying pan. Bits of coal are highly abrasive.

Fortunately, most of the particles just plug the oil filter or melt into lumps that block small passageways without burning up. However, this explains why there are so many instances of oil starvation with resulting engine damage from such additives.

The multibillion-dollar oil companies, with their large R&D departments, would already have included the best additives they know of provided it was economically feasible to do so. The odds of some shade-tree inventor being able to outwit them for $9.95 are infinitesimally small, and it is far more likely to be a marketing invention than anything. P.T. Barnum was right.