http://www.enhancedstreetperformance...products_id=85

Speak to Dave...very helpful

 

the pressure plate bolts need an E8 torx socket (female); (the bolt is the same shape and size as a T40 torx male key)

 

Well it's all out and on the ground now..... except the clutch that is... still have to pick up that E8 socket to get it off. Going by Sears tomorrow hopeful they stock such items...

Will post some pictures in a bit, but the inside of the bell housing was full of clutch fiber and dust... a PILE of fiber tells me the disc shredded itself.

Now... wonder if I can put this pile of parts back together again before the wifey sees it?

dropped the pictures and inserted the link to them........ http://offsiteresources.com/Mini_Clu...l_20050725.htm

 

Congrats:smile: So far so good but why did you remove the uprights from the suspension? We left everything attached and just lowered the subframe with uprights/brakes/shafts in place. That clutch sure is long gone

 

looks to me like he removed the right stuff. I see a bit of hub studs hanging in place.


maybe you are confusing those vertical extensions on the subframe with suspension uprights?

I give him major, major points for doing this in a gravel floor garage on plywood. My God, that is guerilla!

 

http://offsiteresources.com/Mini_Clu...l_20050725.htm

It's a little more clear what came off......

On the phone with Enhanced Performance now.... they seem a bit high on the parts and can't get them here for a week or more......

 

barnhillld,

Wonderful job, I'm with jlm. Good luck with the rest of the project.

How high off the plywood did you have to jack up the frame to get the transmission to clear the underside of the car after you dropped it out and pulled it forward? I'm guessing about 18", maybe more?

Any particular snags? How did you pop the shifter cable connections?

Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle

 

Jlm, when we dropped my subframe, we removed the struts/springs. But the hub carrier/brakes/shaft remained attached to the subframe/lower arm.

 

as I recall. I left the hub, shaft and carrirer attached to the coilover and the whole biz left under the fender, removing the two ball joint 13mm bolts to separate the ball joint form the carrier.

 

It actually didn't clear, had to slip it OFF the transmission jack and lower it to the plywood then just slide it out. Sub-frame was not as heavy as I had feared and it wasn't bad. Going back, I'll need a couple extra hands to slide it under, lift it up and slip the jack back under it to raise the sub-frame back up into position.

"Any particular snags"

- An air impact wrench that wouldn't loosen the axle bolt on a bicycle, despite having plenty of air to push it. Therefore a right front axle nut that I had to break by hand with a cheater bar.... major friggin headache and it took me a while, expecially as I had already removed the brakes and was counting on the impact wrench doing it's job.
- Starter wires were a bit tight.... had to swear for ten minutes before those would come off.
- Shift cable end attachments what required almost 27.3 minutes of swearing ( and a couple of postings above).
- A 'false' start as I had originally planned to remove the engine and transmission as a unit. These forums convinced me to drop the sub-frame instead. Sub-frame was much easier than I thought it would be although I'm not yet convinced that removing the engine would have been any more difficult ;-)

 

JLM, I know you ran the Sachs clutch before this one and had problems with it wearing out prematurely... then you went with the Spec Stage 2 and have said it's fine...

In surfing around, I found this note tagged after the Stage 2 clutch and just wondered what your experience has been regarding the streetability of the stage 2:
"- SPEC Stage 2 performance kevlar - (road course/track use - not recommended for street use)"

I would expect the stage 2 to be just a bit more firm, but this note surprised me.... Would you have any idea why they'd tag it with the old "not recommended for street use" ?

Thanks,
Lloyd

 

Props are definitely due to you man. Good work and keep the info flowing.


I wish I were so brave as to replace my own clutch!

I got all excited about my boost and and oil pressure gauge last Sat!

Can't wait to hear you successfully complete your project!!

 

if you are going to be shifting a lot, as in driving in normal traffic, you will hate the stage 3 more than stage 2. From spec, they use the same pressure plate, just different discs. the Kevlar has worked fine for me, a daily driver, but the stage 3 would be grabby and make feathering a nightmare. the stage differnces have to do with the toque limit, achieved with different friction materials; higher torque ratings mean a less friendly engagement.

 

Stage 3's ceramic 4 puck is harder to engage smoothly in street driving and wears quickly. Stage 2's Kevlar has full circle segmented pads, engages like stock and will last longer. My stage 2 has been on since May and I'm very satisfied with it. During stop/go traffic, it gets a little sticky in 1st but that's ok :smile:

 

Barnhilld, you are doing an amazing job, particularly on a plywood/gravel floor! I used to r&r the tranny in my TR6 routinely to replace the 2nd gear syncro. (those power shifts were just too much for the cheesy Triumph part) This was done on a dirt floor garage, but didn't need to lay on the floor. Pull the seats, the tunnel, out with the tranny up through the **** pit, in with the new syncro back all together and on the road again!
Yes indeed....props to youse guys !

 

Turns out Enhanced Street Performance is as good as anyone else on price / delivery time and more helpful than most. On order:
- Spec Stage 2 clutch
- Powerslot rotors
- Hawk HPS pads
- New wire clips for the pads (original clips are corroded and gross)
- Exhaust manifold gasket (yeah, I dropped the manifold during the plans for pulling the engine)

Sounds like no parts until next week. My son's 97 Talon is sitting outside the door of the garage in need of a transmission and wiring harness. He heads back to school in 4 weeks and I think he's getting impatient with my Mini project to wrap up

MSFITOY - congratulations for July Ride of the month! Nice car!
http://www.cooperspeed.com/forums/hrtm.php

JLM, thanks again for your advice getting this apart. Hope you're not taking a vacation and will be online next week for the re-assembly! (My kids laughed at me for taking the wireless laptop down to the garage with me )

 

What's the right transmission oil for these things?

 

Glad I could help Barnhillld:smile: I'm using B&M synthetic manual transmission oil.

 

Clutch came today while I was at work.... in under two hours, got the clutch installed, transmission in and torqued down and the slave cylinder back on. That included dicking around for a bit making an alignment tool as there wasn't one included with the clutch and I had to file out the guide pin holes in the clutch because they had powder coating inside and wouldn't slip over the guide pins.

All that's left now is putting all this other stuff back where it goes!

 

Time for a forced break..... Parts were expected yesterday from ESP but still nothing. I guess I need to call them tomorrow and make sure they shipped.

Still need the exhaust header gasket, rotors and pads to wrap this up....

Cheers,
Lloyd

 

US Postal Service sucks....... I have the tracking numbers but they haven't been updated since USPS accepted the package on August 2...... no estimate, no transfer..... no information.

tomorrow is a Friday.... this isn't looking good for the weekend.....

::sigh::

 

USPS tracking leaves something to be desired. Usually you get the accepted and delivered with nothing in between. Doesn't seem to change how long it takes, you just never know where the package really is. I'm still enjoying your continuing saga and thanks for all the updates. :smile:

Steve

 

Parts came today and I'm down to putting the new rotors and pads on.... Rotors are in place and I was surprised to see that both rotors have a slight wobble to them when I rotate the hub.

Is this normal at this point? i.e. is this something that will straighten itself out as they seat and break in? Or did I get two bad rotors?

It's Friday night and I'm going to assemble things anyway, but doesen't seem right that they wouldn't be straight and true.. wobble is something like a 1/16" or so ...

 

The wheel bolts actually snug the rotor to the hub, not that torx screw. That is there to hold it in place while working. You also have to press the brake pedal a few times before the caliper, pads and piston will be snug.

Congratulations on your work, now you have joined the hard core mini DIY'ers.

P.S. My clutch took over 2000 miles before it was truly broken in even though the note that comes with it says 500.

 

1. Power steering fluid. The Bentley manual says to use ONLY this "CHF 11S Hydraulic fluid". Anyone know what the equivalent or a brand name for this? Sent my wife to Autozone to pick up plastilube for the brakes and told her to ask them. They tried to sell her a five gallon bucket of some generic hydraulic fluid. Thankfully, she's a bit smarter than that and came home with just plastilube.
2. I had what I thought to be an unusual amount of metal shavings on the magnetic drain and fill plugs for the transmission. A picture of the fill plug is below and the drain plug had a similar amount of metal on it. Transmission feels fine, but is this normal at 55,000 miles to have so much metal on the plug magnets?