I have a 2011 Mini-S (MCS). It is at 70,000 miles. I just got a sensor on the front brake pads. I can see the back pads are less than 50% worn.

So is there anything that I need to be aware of for replacing the front brake pads. A couple of questions.
1. Can I just replace the pads are do I have to replace the rotors? I am not sure what the tolerance is but I bet they are fine at 70,000 miles.
2. What do I need to buy besides pads? Do I need to buy new pad sensors? I watched this youtube and it says to replace them. a. I guess I also need a special tool to spread the piston back out.
b. I was also surprised that in the video they never bleed the brake out and simply press on the brake afterwards. I would think if you push the piston back, you could introduce air in the line....
3. I was thinking about cleaning and masking off by piston and painting so it looks cool.
4. At 70,000 miles I would guess it is time to change out the brake fluid. Can I do that without replacing the back brakes or should I wait until I do the back.

 

owner since 2002 with 2002 2007 and 2015 of own and also have done brakes for a number of others ... my opinions and experience:

1. I have generally had no issues with going 2 sets of pads to a set or rotors ... I'm NOT a hard driver and in FL not too many hills. OTOH by the time you get the caliper off you are 80% done with getting teh rotors off and they are cheap. True test is thickness. OE rotors have minimum thickness cast into the inner face .... If you have significant scoring .. replace. DO NOT try to resurface OE rotors. By the time you skim 'em they will be too thin. Today's rotors are not made thick enuf to be skimmed to a new surface.

2.If you tripped the wear sensor it is 'consumed' and must be replaced. This simple item is just a loop of wire in a plastic carrier that eventually touched the rotor and wears until the loop is broken causing an OPEN circuit and the alert comes up. To clear the alert you must close the loop by replacing the sensor (or cutting the sensor leads and fastening together removing the sensor and 'tricking' the system) P.S.1 sensor per axle: left front, right rear wheels and outside pad only.

2a. Special tool is handy for rear where the piston needs a push and turn motion to retract (e-brake system), front is simple push. Tool is handy but most can do by hand alone.

2b. Pushing the piston has never introduced air for me ... system should be closed'. Some recommend opening the bleeder when pushing the piston which allows fluid to escape rather than pushing it back. Some possibility of introducing air here IMO.

3. Good time to paint if it floats your boat. Secret is prep work .... CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN

4. MINI actually recommends replace fluid every 2 years regardless of pad status ... my 15 has this item in the computer and reminder pops up (mine is on now)

I use EBC red pads ... have since around 2008 ...... check waymotorworks.com for pad/rotor packages

 

With 70k miles you more than likely need rotors as they are probably original. This will also help your new pads last longer and reduce the chance of warping.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-br...-cooper-s.html

I'd go with either the EBC reds or Akebono. Both great street pads and both low dust.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/ebc-re...rake-pads.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/akebon...5-r56-r57.html

You don't need to open any bleeder screws or bleed the brakes to change pads and rotors.
The brake fluid should be changed every 2 years, but since you have an R56 it actually has a light that will come on as it is reset each time you change the brake fluid.

For tools you don't need anything special for the fronts as you can push the pistons back in with a big pair of pliers.
The rears you will need a tool to screw them back in, but you can pick the tool up cheap from Harbor freight.

 

Short note regarding rotors:
The specified brake disc thickness for the R56 represents the wear limit, above which a new set of pads can be installed without replacing the rotor. The rotor can then be used for the full remaining lifetime of the pads, even if its thickness falls below the specified value during this time.

And regarding brake fluid:
BMW's instructions do not mention opening the bleeder when replacing the fluid. Instead, they warn that one should observe the fluid level in the expansion tank while pushing back the pistons and make sure it does not spill over (it is corrosive to some materials). If necessary, remove some fluid from the tank using a clean syringe or the like prior to pushing back the pistons.

PS.: For my 2010 LCI base Cooper (german spec):

 

Is it better to get a rotor with slots and drill holes? What are the advantages/disadvantages. Better braking but more dust? Noisy?

 

for street use it is pure bling

https://www.ablison.com/pros-and-con...lotted-rotors/