Water Damage Repair, worth it? ditch it?
Water Damage Repair, worth it? ditch it?
Hi all, my wife's 09 MCS in pepper white just got the flood damage over last months down pour in Houston. Insurance will fully pay for what it's worth, but we're thinking about buying the car back at a discount. Reason being that ever since we got the car, it's gone through a lot of maintenance all done by me, it's where I learned how to fix these 2nd gen mini's, too. I'm mechanically savvy, can do everything up to replacing head gasket, rebuilding the valves in the head, been there, done that. I've even upgraded her intake, downpipe, diverter spring, and was about to upgrade her turbo to JCW turbo. Anyways, all that is out the window if we don't keep the car, and so far, I haven't dealt with a water damage vehicle before. Wondering what I'm facing ahead of me if I do buy the car back.
A little bit about the extent of the flood damage, it got to the floor board only, so I can take the carpet out for a wash and sun-dry for a while then put it back in. I opened up the valve cover to check, there is milkshake in that oil, so I intend to spray it down, drain it off, and replace with new oil. The engine still turns, by the way. Transmission still shifts, car drives fine. I did some research and from what I hear, no matter what level of repair we put forth, eventually the electronic components especially the pin connectors will get to full corrosion and start having electronic issues. Is there a way to clean those pin out? grease them up, maybe?
Wondering if any of you had some experience with water damage vehicles, and if I were to tackle this, what are my options going down this road? Also, my car title will be handed back to me with a salvage certificate, how do I turn this into a rebuilt vehicle so that I can still register it for road use?
A little bit about the extent of the flood damage, it got to the floor board only, so I can take the carpet out for a wash and sun-dry for a while then put it back in. I opened up the valve cover to check, there is milkshake in that oil, so I intend to spray it down, drain it off, and replace with new oil. The engine still turns, by the way. Transmission still shifts, car drives fine. I did some research and from what I hear, no matter what level of repair we put forth, eventually the electronic components especially the pin connectors will get to full corrosion and start having electronic issues. Is there a way to clean those pin out? grease them up, maybe?
Wondering if any of you had some experience with water damage vehicles, and if I were to tackle this, what are my options going down this road? Also, my car title will be handed back to me with a salvage certificate, how do I turn this into a rebuilt vehicle so that I can still register it for road use?
So far, I did flooded R52, 2x R55, R56, R57, and R60. Also depending on tomorrow, I'll have a flooded R61. (I have threads on them aslo)
If the water were rain or street water, then it should be fine. you could use contact cleaner and dielectric grease. There are some module under the seats you have to replace and you need to make sure the water did not reach the fuse box or the FRM module. Lastly, check of water got into the transmission. just open the drain plug and let it drip a little for visual inspection.
If the water were rain or street water, then it should be fine. you could use contact cleaner and dielectric grease. There are some module under the seats you have to replace and you need to make sure the water did not reach the fuse box or the FRM module. Lastly, check of water got into the transmission. just open the drain plug and let it drip a little for visual inspection.
Thanks for the valuable input, MiniTobe. I'll be sure to work the list you provided.
Just curious, the FRM is located on the passenger side down there below the glove box to the right hand side, right? where the fuse box would be, correct? I can't tell if the water got that high up there, but it did make a pool out of the floor, possibly touching the seats a little bit, so chances are whatever module are under the seat I'll have to replace them already.
Just curious, the FRM is located on the passenger side down there below the glove box to the right hand side, right? where the fuse box would be, correct? I can't tell if the water got that high up there, but it did make a pool out of the floor, possibly touching the seats a little bit, so chances are whatever module are under the seat I'll have to replace them already.
The JBE (fuse box) is the one on the right side, passenger kick panel. The FRM (footwell module) is on the left. These two mount just about the carpet level. If the car starts and runs, I think it is good to disconnect the batter and dry these up. if you keep the battery connected then your expediting the electrolysis. under the seats, you have the bluetooth module, heated seats modules, the YAW sensor.
again, if everything works fine, disconnect the battery ASAP and let it dry.
again, if everything works fine, disconnect the battery ASAP and let it dry.
The JBE (fuse box) is the one on the right side, passenger kick panel. The FRM (footwell module) is on the left. These two mount just about the carpet level. If the car starts and runs, I think it is good to disconnect the batter and dry these up. if you keep the battery connected then your expediting the electrolysis. under the seats, you have the bluetooth module, heated seats modules, the YAW sensor.
again, if everything works fine, disconnect the battery ASAP and let it dry.
again, if everything works fine, disconnect the battery ASAP and let it dry.
Thanks for the insight, MiniTobe. If I do go through with this and get more issues, I'll surely chime up here asking for your advice. It seems that you have a lot of experience with this. Just in general, are these cars still safe after some form of recovery after drying out the water aspect? Many people stated that the pins can corrode after a year or two. As much love as we have for our MCS, it'll be frustrating to go a year out with no issues, then all of a sudden sparks and pops, car's done. Wondering if there's a sure way to deal with that possibly hidden and retained water in the electrical system.
sure thing my friend.
My wife is still driving the R60 after a year or so from recovery. The R56 was with me for 2 years and the R55 was for 18 months before I sold them. I have not gotten calls back with issues. The point is, make sure all is dry and use dielectric grease. EVEN if for some reason after a years it fails on you, you can still part it out or sell it as is to someone.
My wife is still driving the R60 after a year or so from recovery. The R56 was with me for 2 years and the R55 was for 18 months before I sold them. I have not gotten calls back with issues. The point is, make sure all is dry and use dielectric grease. EVEN if for some reason after a years it fails on you, you can still part it out or sell it as is to someone.
sure thing my friend.
My wife is still driving the R60 after a year or so from recovery. The R56 was with me for 2 years and the R55 was for 18 months before I sold them. I have not gotten calls back with issues. The point is, make sure all is dry and use dielectric grease. EVEN if for some reason after a years it fails on you, you can still part it out or sell it as is to someone.
My wife is still driving the R60 after a year or so from recovery. The R56 was with me for 2 years and the R55 was for 18 months before I sold them. I have not gotten calls back with issues. The point is, make sure all is dry and use dielectric grease. EVEN if for some reason after a years it fails on you, you can still part it out or sell it as is to someone.
Good to know, I already pulled the trigger to buy back the car. Should be working to remove the carpet first thing, probably will soak it in pine-sol suds for a while and rinse before I let the sun do its job at drying it out. Then onto the car checking the modules you mentioned.
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