Radiator sealer caused blown head gasket
Radiator sealer caused blown head gasket
I just purchased my 5th Mini Cooper project car, a 2009 MCS. The person that I purchased it from said the car overheated, so he changed the thermostat out. When he put the car back together, it wouldn’t start, so he sold it. When I pulled out the plugs to check compression, I saw coolant in the cylinder 3 and 4. I hand cranked the motor over and got a face full of coolant with what looked like sand in it. I pulled the head off and there was a sand-like substance packed around the cylinder cooling towers and a black plastic like stuff blocking the water port from the water pump to the cylinder head, it looked like something had melted inside of the engine. Oh, and when I took off the valve cover the inside of it was completely melted, like it was on fire a some point.
After a bit of research, I believe that someone tried to fix a leak in the coolant system with powdered coolant system leak fixer and it went way wrong. Has anyone ever heard of this happening? Do you think that there is permanent engine damage?
I was able to clean the lower block up pretty well. I will replace the water pump, timing chain, valve cover, head gasket, and make sure the head is within tolerance (and replace that if needed). Would love to hear thoughts on whether I should replace the engine or not.
After a bit of research, I believe that someone tried to fix a leak in the coolant system with powdered coolant system leak fixer and it went way wrong. Has anyone ever heard of this happening? Do you think that there is permanent engine damage?
I was able to clean the lower block up pretty well. I will replace the water pump, timing chain, valve cover, head gasket, and make sure the head is within tolerance (and replace that if needed). Would love to hear thoughts on whether I should replace the engine or not.
I just purchased my 5th Mini Cooper project car, a 2009 MCS. The person that I purchased it from said the car overheated, so he changed the thermostat out. When he put the car back together, it wouldn’t start, so he sold it. When I pulled out the plugs to check compression, I saw coolant in the cylinder 3 and 4. I hand cranked the motor over and got a face full of coolant with what looked like sand in it. I pulled the head off and there was a sand-like substance packed around the cylinder cooling towers and a black plastic like stuff blocking the water port from the water pump to the cylinder head, it looked like something had melted inside of the engine. Oh, and when I took off the valve cover the inside of it was completely melted, like it was on fire a some point.
After a bit of research, I believe that someone tried to fix a leak in the coolant system with powdered coolant system leak fixer and it went way wrong. Has anyone ever heard of this happening? Do you think that there is permanent engine damage?
I was able to clean the lower block up pretty well. I will replace the water pump, timing chain, valve cover, head gasket, and make sure the head is within tolerance (and replace that if needed). Would love to hear thoughts on whether I should replace the engine or not.
After a bit of research, I believe that someone tried to fix a leak in the coolant system with powdered coolant system leak fixer and it went way wrong. Has anyone ever heard of this happening? Do you think that there is permanent engine damage?
I was able to clean the lower block up pretty well. I will replace the water pump, timing chain, valve cover, head gasket, and make sure the head is within tolerance (and replace that if needed). Would love to hear thoughts on whether I should replace the engine or not.
But before you do this you will have to remove all coolant leak fixer stuff from the cooling system. A backwards flowing flush of the block, head, radiator and heater core is called for.
The engine and head cooling passages and the radiator tubes and heater core tubes want to be free of that leak fixer stuff as they can be.
Be sure you drain the oil and replace it with fresh oil and replace the filter too.
If the engine sounds healthy after running it awhile drain the oil and refill with fresh oil and replace the filter. I'd be tempted -- more than tempted -- to when the engine has cooled down to drain the coolant from the cooling system and replace it with fresh coolant. To this end you could at the start of this just fill the cooling system with water since you know you are going to drain this out after some engine run time.
If the engine doesn't sound healthy well, you can decide it you want to fix the problem or replace the engine.
If you fix or replace the engine you want to be sure the cooling system is as free of that stop leak stuff as much as it can be.
Unless you see obvious signs the the block is toast I'm thinking the only way to know if you need to replace the engine is to button the engine up and being sure it is ready to run start it and let it run and see what happens.
But before you do this you will have to remove all coolant leak fixer stuff from the cooling system. A backwards flowing flush of the block, head, radiator and heater core is called for.
The engine and head cooling passages and the radiator tubes and heater core tubes want to be free of that leak fixer stuff as they can be.
Be sure you drain the oil and replace it with fresh oil and replace the filter too.
If the engine sounds healthy after running it awhile drain the oil and refill with fresh oil and replace the filter. I'd be tempted -- more than tempted -- to when the engine has cooled down to drain the coolant from the cooling system and replace it with fresh coolant. To this end you could at the start of this just fill the cooling system with water since you know you are going to drain this out after some engine run time.
If the engine doesn't sound healthy well, you can decide it you want to fix the problem or replace the engine.
If you fix or replace the engine you want to be sure the cooling system is as free of that stop leak stuff as much as it can be.
But before you do this you will have to remove all coolant leak fixer stuff from the cooling system. A backwards flowing flush of the block, head, radiator and heater core is called for.
The engine and head cooling passages and the radiator tubes and heater core tubes want to be free of that leak fixer stuff as they can be.
Be sure you drain the oil and replace it with fresh oil and replace the filter too.
If the engine sounds healthy after running it awhile drain the oil and refill with fresh oil and replace the filter. I'd be tempted -- more than tempted -- to when the engine has cooled down to drain the coolant from the cooling system and replace it with fresh coolant. To this end you could at the start of this just fill the cooling system with water since you know you are going to drain this out after some engine run time.
If the engine doesn't sound healthy well, you can decide it you want to fix the problem or replace the engine.
If you fix or replace the engine you want to be sure the cooling system is as free of that stop leak stuff as much as it can be.
Thanks for the input.
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