Hi All,

Needing some opinions on the noises in the attached video and whether this is the death rattle. I have been listening to other clips on YouTube although similar noises are produced, it doesn't completely sound like a tracotor but is it normal the car starts to really struggle if I pull up the dip stick or remove the oil cap?

• Car seems to be idling funny and struggling at pulls at around 3rd-4th gear, I've swapped over to ILKR8ES sparks about 6 months ago and didn't have issues but it appears the Ignition Project packs are in need of replacing although they've lasted me for about 70,000 KMS compared to crappy Non OEM ones I've purchased previously - Plugs seem to look ok.
• Walnut blasting was done less than 5000kms ago (November 2018)
• Timing Chain kit and water pump was replaced and installed probably 50,000kms ago (June 2016)

At this stage I'll need to swap the packs around to track down the issue and install either some fresh JCW OEM Coil-packs & Plugs or M7tunings Bosch coil packs with their recommended colder plug.

Current KMS: 110,000 KMS

Parts:

• Evolve Stage 3 Tune
• Ignition Project Coil Packs with NGK Iridium Spark Plug - ILKR8E6 (1 Step colder)
• IPE Downpipe
• FMIC
• AEM Intake
• OS GIKEN Clutch

 

Long shot, and sorry to dredge up old posts but any updates on this?
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My 2009 JCW sounds identical, with the cap off it does the same thing.

Almost same mods too, AEM, 8 grade NGK, FMIC and Milltek sports cat.

Planned Evolve stage 2 in the next month!

 

I have noticed that with the cap/dipstick out the car will get a rough idle, I believe (speculation) that by removing it you are directly impacting the vacuum in the valve cover and as such the car tries to compensate thus fluctuations occur.

If I were you and had the rattle, I would start by checking my friction pulley, water pump pulley, then go towards the timing chain, which can be checked by popping off the valve cover and visually inspecting the guides or for slack, at this time you can visually check the timing by looking for the printing on the cams to be at the EXACT same position between the pair.