P0172 2012 Mini Cooper S R56
P0172 2012 Mini Cooper S R56
I have a 2012 Mini Cooper S R56, 96,000 miles, with no mods. The check engine light has been on for a bit throwing the P0172 permanent code (System running Rich bank 1) for the last 5 months. I have replaced the high pressure fuel pump, all spark plugs, air intake box, both O2 sensors, valve cover gasket (due to a leak found by a smoke test), thermostat and the thermostat housing, and have cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner. I have seen posts suggesting adding come fuel cleaner to the mix to see if that helps, and having the dealership update the software on the computer (wondering how much that runs if anyone knows). I have not noticed any issues with fuel economy at all as I am able to fill up every 2 weeks and get about 26 miles a gallon. I have not lost any power while driving, and generally speaking the car drives just fine. I am writing to see what other ideas may be out there in terms of how to fix this issue.
update
I wish that electrical tape would work
Alittle update;
Read the codes again, surprise still P0172 and now P300, P301, P302 and P304 (misfires on cylinders 1,2 and 4). Long term fuel trim is -20% and short term is -2%. Air fuel ratio is 14.67 and MAF voltage at idle is 3v and while cruising 20v. (hoping the MAF voltage is within acceptable parameters. Also while driving there wasn't any boost leak that was noticed with the scan tool hooked up. Also noticed when starting my car in the cold weather it is very rough and after about 2 minutes it gets to a good idle and then shuts off. After I restart it everything starts up good. I will add a video later to illustrate my point. I am thinking on checking the PCV valve.
Alittle update;Read the codes again, surprise still P0172 and now P300, P301, P302 and P304 (misfires on cylinders 1,2 and 4). Long term fuel trim is -20% and short term is -2%. Air fuel ratio is 14.67 and MAF voltage at idle is 3v and while cruising 20v. (hoping the MAF voltage is within acceptable parameters. Also while driving there wasn't any boost leak that was noticed with the scan tool hooked up. Also noticed when starting my car in the cold weather it is very rough and after about 2 minutes it gets to a good idle and then shuts off. After I restart it everything starts up good. I will add a video later to illustrate my point. I am thinking on checking the PCV valve.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



