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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
I have a 2010 Mini Cooper with the 1.6 MFI DOHC engine with 65k miles. It was running pretty good, but has starter to stutter under heavy(ish) accelerating around 2000-3000 rpm, usually in higher gears. If I continue to accelerate I get misfiring across multiple cylinders. Misfiring ceases with less acceleration.
I figure 3 x things to check - Air, Fuel and Spark.
Air - The air filter is fairly new and looks quite clean. The next step could be the throttle body and intake valves. The symptoms seem similar to coking/oil build up of the intake valves, but most threads indicate the MFI engine is not direct injection, and therefore I should not have any trouble with the intake valves. Can someone confirm this about the MFI engine? If inlet valves are an issues, I could remove the intake manifold and clean them fairly easily.
Fuel - I had considered replacing the fuel filter, but didn’t much like the idea of trying to open the filter housing while the electrical cables in the fuel tank where still connected in case I damaged them. BTW, the battery was disconnected. Failure of the HPFP may cause some of the indications, although the car revs freely in lower gears to high rpm. I’ve not even looked at DIY replacement of the pump yet.
Sparks - I will take the plugs out and check them next weekend. If they look fine, I could look to the coil packs. That aside the engine normally runs smooth with the exception of the rpm noted above and misfires occur across all 4 cylinders, so it “feels” more like a fuel / air issue.
I’ve read a lot of threads and can see similarities across a few. I’m happy to do most work myself, but was hoping someone had similar experience to narrow down the issue quickly and prevent nugatory work and/or part replacement.
1) confirm what engine you have - I expect it is the N12. See the Gen2 FAQ item on this topic, there should be a label inside the hood.
2) yes definitely check the plugs
3) get the codes read and post it here. (lots of threads on code readers, or your local auto parts store will often do it for free.)
1) confirm what engine you have - I expect it is the N12. See the Gen2 FAQ item on this topic, there should be a label inside the hood.
Mine is a N14 2009S
2) yes definitely check the plugs
New plugs installed 2k miles ago.
3) get the codes read and post it here. (lots of threads on code readers, or your local auto parts store will often do it for free.)
I'm getting CE light but OBD says OK...no codes.
Car ran perfect last night, got in this afternoon started right up. Started driving CE light comes on car has no power and sputters when just lightly touching the gas,
I have been all over forum to find an answer but I might be looking in all the wrong places.
OBD codes were P0301, P0302, P0304. Looks like misfiring on 3 of 4 cylinders (under certain acceleration).
I took the plugs out and noticed each of the gaps was visible larger than new plugs. Cylinder 3 was slightly better, probably backed up by the lack of misfiring.
Anyhow, all plugs replaced and the car is running well. V happy for $45 and 20 min effort... and I'm glad I didn't do anything more invasive.
I've attached photos of the plug in case it's any help to other members.
^ My plugs only had a few thousand miles on them so I knew that couldn't be the problem....
I took out coil packs and did an ohm check one had different a reading.(Some guy said only get one...What and wait for the others to go bad?) Ordered last Friday from Calif. $162(for 4) with shipping and tax...($270+tax @ Autozone,NAPA or Advanced Auto)
Fed E' ed.. received them Tuesday ...5 minute job and she is back to purring like a kitten
