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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
(Post 4423330)
I have to disagree with you...it is FREE to try and put the chain back on the sprocket and rest the timing. Few years back, I bought a 2010 Clubman S with the same exact thing. I bought the upper rail and reset the timing...fired right up with no issues. it was my best turn around ;) At any rate, I suggest resetting the timing and trying...there isnt going to be more harm than what it has been. fixing isnt just tearing apart the replacing. stop and think and verify before you waste money on something didnt need to be done.
It's just a matter of sequencing the fix and figuring out the cost and waste time altogether. |
Guys. How I can get right timing? I want to risk and get new chain kit, install and try to fire up or maybe I can do it with old chain? I want to understand if my valve ok or they dead. Any body can recommend the right tools for the correct timing? Thanks |
You said you have a 2007 Cooper S -- this is an R56, which has an N14 engine. I did a quick eBay search and there are many cam tool kits for around $40. You might search the forum to see if there is a specific recommendation for a kit.
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Originally Posted by Mark Supinski
(Post 4423373)
You said you have a 2007 Cooper S -- this is an R56, which has an N14 engine. I did a quick eBay search and there are many cam tool kits for around $40. You might search the forum to see if there is a specific recommendation for a kit.
Mark should I order chain kit too? I oredred cam tool today it will arrive by Wednesday next week. I will start take car a part front end and whell cover etc. Let me know if this good idea to get new chain kit . Thanks |
If it was me, I would. Remember that for some reason the chain skipped off the sprockets. I would have a tough time trusting any of the components to simply put the chain back on. Was the chain stretched? Did a tensioner fail? Who knows. I would buy a full kit and replace everything that wears. Note you'll also have to replace the chain guide at the top that got eaten as well.
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I responded to this last night but it was apparently held for moderation. Since I haven't seen it pop up today, I'll try answering again.
My opinion would be to order a full timing kit. The old chain jumped off for some reason. Something clearly needs to be replaced and doing everything assures it should be good and healthy if the valves are ok. I'm not sure if the top chain guide that disintegrated is part of such a kit, so that may have to be ordered in addition to a new chain. Mark |
I order timing tool kit, borescope and chain kit. I put car in garage and start to take a part engine bay. Prepare for the timing job. After total inspection valve and cylinder head make final decision. Thanks |
Good luck! Thanks for keeping us up to date. Crossing fingers for you!
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Timing chain replacement isn’t all that hard just take your time. Make sure your crankshaft is locked before loosening the main crankshaft bolt. It looks like the top chain guide disintegrated on you. Make sure you pull the oil pan and look for all the places plastic can go. I am sure you will find some in the pan. It will make the timing chain change easier anyway and you will learn a lot about your engine. The timing tool is key and even the ebay ones will suffice just fine if you make sure they are bolted up and secure. I am sure your timing chain is quite stretched and loose. When you put the new one on you will see just how much. There are plenty of great DIY threads on here that’s how I learned to do my own. That’s what shattered the top guide a loose chain slapping against heat stressed plastic. Better to change all the rest of the guides and chain now before the othe guides follow. . |
Guys just want to give update. I get borescope today and check inside the each cylinder. No damage on any cylinder and looks like my valves all strait. I mean all looks fine. I wait for my new chain and timing tool to start this repairs. |
That's great news. I may bring my mini to take a look inside when I come out there if I haven't figured out my limp mode issue by then.
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If you got your timing kit from ebay, you may experience fitment issues with the flywheel key. I spent 2 hours hand sanding the key to get it into that hole. Also had to sand down one of the cam holders up top. Those just weren't of good quality, but after sanding those burrs away, I was able to align them and get everything working. Starting up was no problem at all.
Before you're turning your crankshaft to lock in the flywheel key hole, do yourself a favor and remove all spark plugs and place some long equal length zip-ties into the chamber. Let the height of each piston give you a clue to see if you line it up right. Because on the flywheel locking hole, there are two slots available for lock in, one was where the 1 and 4 pistons are up with 2 and 3 pistons down, and camshafts will all point up. This isn't the correct position. You'll have to turn the flywheel until you get the next lock in slot and all pistons are the same height. If you check this step, you should be fine. Good luck and happy motoring. |
Terron-
When your parts come in, I think this video will help you -- have a look. |
Hey Fox. I just got all my parts and tools together. Today I get all pistons strait and secure with locking tool. I got only exhaust valve timing correct and intake camashat not moving by chain. I also got lose main crankshaft bolt. For tomorrow I will take down engine support and time for chain replacement. |
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I have that locking tool...garbage...it wont fit unless you cut the "extra" end hitting the turbo. Also did you make sure the locking pin is ALL the in? I had to sand mine to make it fit!
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I watch many different videos and everybody has same issue with lock tool. My lock key go in all the way from 3rd try. I can’t believe is so easy. I guess I’m lucky or just tool is good. I buy from ebay for $38 with delivery included. |
Yeah the Ebay tools if it's under $100, they are hit and miss in terms of fitment. I've bought a second set because after that first job couple years back, I couldn't find that set. And just few months ago I found it again. But comparing both sets, they are each of their own different. the new set has that issue where I need to trim the edge hitting the turbo assembly. On both sets the flywheel locking tools are too big, need sanding down, though on the second set it required less sanding. Just really inconsistent in diameter tolerances. Also on the second set, where the "square" slot is used to lock down the cams, there's extra bur which if I can completely square both cams down, the interlocking bolt holes are misaligned. Or if the holes are aligned, then one of the square slot won't fit with the cam's square lobe. I ended up trimming out the bur and got it to work. Both sets are around 40-60 bucks from Ebay. Once those issues are resolved, then it's cake walk doing the timing jobs on this car. Your luck will vary is all I'm trying to say here.
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Hi everyone. Wow. Today I finally finish timing chain replacement. So let me start. I replaced new chain, tensenioners, guide bolts, gaskets on the valve cover and oil pan. Clean oil pump from small plastic debris and oil pan. I replaced camshaft seal and everiting on the way. Only difficulty what I get on the way is one 8mm bolt from oil pan right above exhaust pipe:( Rest of the stuff is easy. Only some how from first turn of camshaft my timing on exhaust mess up little bit. I adjust right away and everything great. Ok I start car from first try and everything look fine. Well I warming up car and smoke came all around engine bay I guess this is just some oil etc. The smoke gone in 15 min and everything work fine. Car work great and engine pur pur like a kitty. I get on first drive and kick hard around 4000rpm to check and warming turbo. Everything fine till some moment I heard some noise from the side where is previously done chain work. I start investigate and what I see I can’t belibved. Lower right guide chain bolt is come off for like a 1in and seat on the belt and moving with belt?.. I like what ta hek. I put them all and tighten by specs in the book. So is no way is come off or untighten like this. I remove new belt and find out this guide bolt is broken a half. What I see is tred inside and half bolt in my hand :( I like OMG. So now I need again new tensioner bolt and some how remove old tred from the engine. Any ideas? |
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Of course oil spill, not much but I just clean everything:(
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Also get some isssue to remove this Chain Guide Bolt first time , broke 2 heads:( https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...27dc0c262.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...90eeae2ea.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...76d63ac97.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...e8c335f63.jpeg |
So the valves were not bent ;)
yeah, that bolt also gave me hard time...I have to hammer it out. I didnt care if it broke or not. you could tap on it to unfreeze it and use an impact wrench. also, make sure you torques everything to spec. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...aft/1VnY7d2Xnh |
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