Hi ! I was hopeing you guys could help me out with some codes? (P2403,p0030,p2300,p2303,p2305,p2302)
Anyone had any of these codes at time ?
2002 r53

 

What coil do you have ? Please don’t say Red MSD or Screaming Demon ....

If you have the OEM coil check all 4 connections by pulling the wires one by one. One of the #3 may be corroded and you will need to clean it up.

Also how many miles are on your current plugs and wires ? They do not last forever and you may need a new set. Again OEM is best for coil wires and plugs.

 

Also have you ever changed the OEM crank damper changed ?

Without more details it’s hard to help.

 

LOL. Most n00b come in and scream "have anyone ever drink and got drunk" kind of question. Need to provide your age, your drinking history, body weight, and most important what you drunk for others to help. Just saying.

 

The car was rebuilt to OEM specs with market parts. Pistons ,bearings, rods, valve train, ect...... so I was able to drive it . Afther full startup , while I was driving around my neighborhood the car started to stutter around 3000 RPMs. so I drove it back home. I double checked everything ,sensors also checked for leaks everything seemed good. I tried to start the car up it wouldn't start , I let the car cool down for a bit and it started right up but only idled for about 20 seconds .So I scanned the car for codes and these popped up. I swapped out the coil pack with one I had at home and that didn't make a difference. I also check the spark plugs they smell like gas I'm waiting on some new wires to come in all I was looking for was some advice from anyone that has had this problem. ( all the sensors on the car have about 70k miles on them)

 

I'm also running a new man cam 272/400.
and iridium spark plugs with old aftermarket wires.

 

I just find it funny that all my codes are ignition problems I hope my ECU didn't take a s*** . I'm thinking about buying a voltage meter to check everything .

 

If I comprehend you right, you just did this boat load of work, yet this most pertinent information was not mention in your first post. If you were able to start the car and drive around a bit, I bet your problem is not ignition coil, plug, or wire. I would check and retrace the work you did.

 

I didn't think anything was wrong with the work I did but who knows I made sure to follow step-by-step procedures with torque specs ect.. also since the car starts doesn't make no ticking or crazy noises. It just doesn't stay on for very long , and all I'm getting back are ignition codes so I didn't know what else to think. I guess I'll remove the valve cover just to start from there . 🤕

 

I volt/ohm meter is a indispensable tool to have and pretty much necessary to diagnose electrical problems.

I'd check your connection to the coil and make sure nothing is loose or damaged.

Some good info here that might help. . .

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-s-2002-a.html

 

I'm going to start with getting a volt meter , and some diagrams on the wiring . Also try to jump on a new coil ! If my ecu ends up being the problem would i have to get a new key ?
THANK YOU guys alot !

this is also the first time I post on here and I I've had this mini for 16 years , the car has never seen a ratchet till now.( One owner )

 

I do not think you toasted the ECU at all.

So you put in a new CAM but I am confused by the numbers you posted for it 272/400 ?

The RMW FULL RACE Cam is 282\300 with .450 lift. (Will not work with OEM ECU)
My RMW GRAND AM CAM 264\272 with .400 lift. I run a Link \ ViPEC ECU

Have you had your car tuned for the CAM you installed ?

After you replace the wires try putting the old OEM CAM back in just for testing.

 

While it is rather unlikely, it has happen before. Did you carefully seat the two ECU connectors, and locked the two slider cams?

When you removed and later replaced the ignition wires did you take care not to stress them. Pulling on the wires can separate the internal carbon resistance strands and lead to intermittent or weak sparks.

 

sadly I can't find anyone to give me a base map to run . Lol the cam I installed is a newman cam ph3/4. I don't think it's the cam but I could try that .

 

That’s a RACE CAM. You can not run that on the OEM ECU without a custom tune. Take it out and put your OEM cam back in and all you issues will be resolved.

No one is going to give you a base map. You need to pay to have your car tuned and mapped. If you are still running small OEM injectors you will need to upgrade those also.

http://www.newman-cams.co.uk/Newman-...3574_18874.jsp

 

Good thing I have injector sitting at home just no one that wants to tune it .. I figured the trimming would be off but it would stay on wount it ?. I would love to get my hands on a link ECU they're just so expensive . I guess I'll just go ahead and put the stock cam back on and see what happens . I'm also willing to pay for a base map. My other problem is no one wants to mess with a mid build which is dumb in my opinion if it blows it's on me. I'm not going to blame a shop if I messed up rebuilding this engine. .

 

I'm back for an update on the car , I got around to changing some things, car starts immediately only with the first try and dies almost immediately now. Upon a second start with my foot on the gas car sputters up and poping. I'm waiting on a new coil pack. I'm not sure what els to look at anything will help thanks !
(Cam position sensor)
(Put the stock cam back on)
(new spark plug wires)

 

 

I replaces them with the same wires I was running , from Alta and I've never had a problem with them.

 

I wana thank everyone and this page for all the great help and ideas I figured out what was wrong with the car , not only my wires where bad but I also had a sticky bypass valve it would open and close randomly. It would come up on start and soly close, it got to the point where it just opens one time enough for a startup. I held it with my finger and the car would stay at perfect idle, upon giving the car gas the valve would close and wouldn't open so the car would just stall.
thank you !!!!!! For the help I'm back in the driver's set ! 👍