So i've got an 04 Mini Cooper R53 with just over 66k on it. I'm pretty sure I need my connecting rods replaced. There is a knocking noise coming from the engine around 2-4k RPMs. Not sure what all I need or should replace before doing the con rods. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Honestly, with only 66k be absolutely sure what the problem is, motors have gone well over 250k with no rod issues.
Has the car possibly mis-tuned or abused?

 

Moving you to the Stock Problems/Issues area.

Thinking as BlwnAway says, what side the noise coming from, passenger side of the motor? Your car is pushing over 13 years and wondering if the crank pulley/harmonic damper is going.

 

Honestly, if you think your engine needs con rods and you are right, there is no way to anticipate what else you will need until the engine is pulled and completely dismantled. There bound to be a lot of expensive engine parts also need replacing or expensive machining. And most are not something a home mechanical can do properly.

 

It sounds like its coming from the driver side. No the only thing i've done to the car is the M7 CAI. Never been tuned or abused to my knowledge. Im the second owner and purchased the car from a mini dealership with only 19k on it. So i highly doubt it was abused before me. The only thing i have done on it is the valve gasket needed replaced but that was about a year and a half ago. The noise just started a few days ago.

 

I would think of it was rods the knock would be present at all RPM not just 2-4k. Is it making this noise when the car is stationary or moving or both?

I'm currently trying to figure out a noise mine is making starting about 3kRPM that I thought was the supercharger or water pump. Start hearing it when I hit 65-70 mph. But the other day going down a hill at 70 mph I kicked it in neutral and let it idle and the noise didn't change. So I'm guessing it's somewhere in the transmission or axles maybe.

Not thread jacking but more saying to try different things when you hear the noise.

 

As soon as anybody pushes the enter button to place anything here, it becomes the property of NAM and NAM is us/you/we/I.

 

both, when its moving and stationary.

 

Update, so I changed the timing chain tensioner, the noise was still present but it sounds better. I drove it home and the engine sounds even worse. Is it the timing chain? The car isnt throwing any codes, its not misfiring either. The engine still pulls and feels good, minus the noise of course. Hes is a video i took of it today. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

 

Man! That sound just awful and so loud. Can't imaging it only has 66k. I am wondering if it is more likely a valve with broken valve spring or rocker. Does not sound like timing chain or belt tensioner at all. If it is engine low end trouble, it can only be explained with loss of oil.

 

yeah it sounds so bad!! It was low one time a few months ago, but since then ive checked it every week while im getting gas. We tried to see exactly where the noise was coming from with a stethoscope but it sounds like it bounces around and echoes. how would i check the broken valve spring, just pulling the head off? im curious as to what else could have been damaged also. and has anyone changed them at home? I have a few friends that have done engine rebuilds and wondering if theyd be able to help. Thank you guys

 

Instead of using a store bought stethoscope which are mostly useless, try use a hose instead. A piece of PVC hose about 3/8" ID works well. You can use it to locate the source of knocking to better isolate it. I had mentioned this method countless times and most just blew it off.

 

ill try it. My father in law and I were trying to locate the noise for about 20 minutes haha. Just from the sound i think its coming from the top of the engine.

 

It does not take allot of time to get the valve cover off to see if you have a some parts bouncing around in the head. Check out ModMini on Youtube, he has a video for changing a head gasket that is more then what you need to remove the valve cover.

 

Im a big fan of his. Thanks. Im hoping its something i can fix and keep the car. I know if its the big end bearing its better for the most part to just buy a used engine. im hoping thats not the case for this car....

 

Sounds external of the motor. How old is the crank pulley? Maybe pop of the passenger side inner fender liner and check for anything vibrating or wobbling.

 

That is not big end/con rod related - that is a dull thumping and yours is a metalic clatter. It sounds like chain slap, like your chain guide at the top is broken and chain is hitting the metal support instead of where there should be plastic. I would not even start that engine again until I had the cover off and inspected the guides, you can then start a process of elimination, if not the chain guides move onto the valve guides, etc but that top cover must come off, good luck.

 

It is very hard with video for us to judge. The sound may be from a badly wobbling main pulley rubbing against the aluminum timing chain cover. I also concur it can be chain slapping as above suggests.

 

Long distance diagnosing can sometimes be like throwing darts at a board.

 

So I took the valve cover off and everything looks and feels fine. As far as I can see the guides on the timing chain are intact and not broken the timing chain is really tight and not loose at all. Im thinking my next step is to drop the oil pan and check out the bottom of the engine, also pulling the passenger tire and checking all the pullys just to be safe.

 

took the belt off started the engine and still there. All the pullys look good, so its got to be bottom end trouble. The question now is, rebuild or crate engine. FML lol

 

I know it sucks. I incline to think your lower end is shot given how loud the knocking sound is. Must emitted from a big end bearing that was destroyed. Can you think of any indication of the engine suffered from prolonged moment of oil starvation, including extremely low oil in the engine?

When the engine is under load it does not take long with the loss of oil pressure to cause immense damage to the bearings especially those on the crank. There have been many case of engine failure due to the oil filter housing drain back valve damage. You should look into that too.

 

Yeah it does suck. For me the question is rebuild if it can be done or a second hand engine with similar miles if i can find one. I was praying to god that it was the supercharger since that would be cheaper than a rebuild or new engine.

 

Honestly, you probably won't even know if it "can" be rebuilt, until it's apart.

 

The odds is not good of economic rebuiding if the damage was done by prolonged oil starvation. A rebuild engine nowadays is not cheap. From what I understand, most rebuilders would swap you a rebuild off the shelf.