I just finished installing a new timing chain on my 2007 R56 - this is the third on this car(99K) but first doing myself - here are my observations that may help others.

1) - get the recommended special tools.... I got everything but the front crank seal seating tool (used a 2" coupling).
2) Get the car as high on the jack stands as possible - I only went up to the first notch on my stands and wished later I went the max. The reason is that when installing the long spanner on the crank hub to remove bolt.... the holes on crank did not match spanner and I had very little adjustment because the car was too low.... apparently the Mini Mechanic that replaced the first chain... had it up in the air and let the spanner hang straight down. I drilled new holes and it was AOK....
3) it is easiest to attach spanner onto crank once the cams are in position.... and use it to jiggle the crank until the special tool lines up perfect and slips all the way in to the hole in flywheel.
4) I followed the book and other instructions such as pelican to a tee... no problems except - it is a 27MM wrench/socket needed for tensioner
5) The book says to torque the 6mm x 20 top chain tensioner bolts to 20 NM - I just cannot believe that. The threads felt like they would strip out long before that tension - I think they were already damaged by the mini dealer. I cleaned up threads and tapped hole all the way through and installed longer bolts. It seemed much happier and I torqued to about 8.5 - 9 NM.
6) There is absolutely no reason to put car into service position - there is plenty of room everywhere without doing that (IMO - that is a book item on the repair Mini charges for... but I would bet they never do)
7) Before putting valve cover back.... I dumped a quart of oil down the chain and guides so it would not start dry the first time.
8) For the TTY bolts I bought a cheap OEM angle gauge - it worked well except - I dropped it and it completely disassembled and cracked the plastic cover. Once reassembled it worked perfect.... well you get what you pay for - good for a few uses but certainly not a lifetime tool!!

I also replaced the front seal, accessory belt, Vacuum pump, replaced Oil and valve cover gasket. The car was leaking oil at all those places so hopefully it is a little better now. Car is definitely quieter, especially at idle, than before.

Hope this helps someone else on the fence wanting to save some significant money!!

 

Thx for the tips dmyer,

I just changed mine. N14 turbo on 2010 Clubman S. The car was running fine before the change, it's purely preventative. I have about 93K on it.

After the change, the car won't start. It cranks, but just won't start. I rechecked the following:

1. Timing. Seem fine since I was able to lock the cams with the tool again with the stampings facing up. Also was able to lock the crank with flywheel pin. All the pistons line up at the same height.

2. All the ground straps, the sensor plugs are in place. Oil filter in the housing.

3. Compression seem fine.

I get a couple codes P0503 and P15E8, both had nothing to do with engine start. I'm sort of out of clues on what to check next. Need some help.

My friend says the crank angle sensor may be out, but I am kind skeptical since the engine was running fine and never had starting issues before the timing chain change.

 

Wire that grounds to the front center valve cover post.
Just to be safe, re check cam position sensor. MAF sensor. All sensors, etc.
Are you getting RPMs registering on a scantool?

Edit... check for blown fuses

 

1. Timing. Seem fine since I was able to lock the cams with the tool again with the stampings facing up. Also was able to lock the crank with flywheel pin. All the pistons line up at the same height.

Was the crank locking pin really all the way in? You can be 180 off and it will seem the same... I found I needed to giggle crank a bit to get the pin to fully seat... it is not just through the housing... you will feel it slip into actual locking hole and crank will be locked - take off cam locks to achieve/check this.

 

Hey guys,

I got it started last night. It turned out to be something really dumb. I was watching the youtube video on how to clean up the valve carbon using brake cleaner. Apparently I left the cleaner fluid there too long or something, some of the gunk leaked into the combustion chamber.

I think it gummed up the injector or something. I used a gun barrel cleaner to slowly cleaned everything out of the chamber and it started. The smoke was unbelievable.

Thanks for your help!