My car has thrown the P1688 code and gone into limp mode twice in the last 2 weeks. Once while accelerating, once while doing a steady 70 mph. Both times i was able to turn the car off and immediately restart. I reset the code and continued driving normally for several hundred miles.

Searching forums, the most commonly found problem is the harmonic balancer. Well mine already exploded a few yrs back, and it has ATI damper now. My bypass valve is fairly new too (just because it’s 2 yrs old means nothing i know) It just seems very random. I drove the car a long way and it seemed to work ok. I drove I gently, i drove it hard, didn’t throw a code. Then just suddenly popped the code while cruising

I see other people suggesting map and tmap sensors, cracked intercooler boots, cracked intake duct ( pipe that bypass valve attaches to). other boost leaks. Any suggestions?

My car has: rmw cam, header, injectors, rmw tune, 15% puley. Put down about 220hp at wheels when tuned (5 yrs ago)

 

To start, I don't know what type of dyno the car was tested on but with the mods you have, IMO there must be a very aggressive tune to get 220 at the wheels (256 bhp). Did Jan do the dyno after the tune? The 1688 code allot times has to do with leaks in the induction system or the BPV is not working correctly. The MAP may also be involved.

You do not mention the year but with all Gen1s being at least 10 years old, the rubber connections may be suffering.

 

Thanks for the reply. The car is 2005. I installed all of tbe parts myself and took it to a dyno. I believe it was as Dynojet. Jan remotely tuned the car. All these parts were installed in 2012 at about 85,000 miles. The car has about 149000 on it now. Only engine problems have been a blown head gasket at about 120k and a cracked exhaust flex pipe that caused an annoying check engine light a few yrs ago. I’m going to start by looking for leaks in the intake system, and bypass valve operation before i throw any parts at it. Someone suggested the rmw cam could be going flat after this many miles, so i’ll probably check it too.

 

Start with a simple smoke test of the intake system, then inspect the belt drive (is the SC pulley slipping?), once you've ruled out the quick and easy then move onto electrical diagnostic.

 

A vendor that owns a MINI, fixes a MINI and sells parts for a MINI is what makes NAM so good.

 

I haven't driven my car much this winter, but last time I did, I got the p1688 code again. it has been annoying trying to troubleshoot since the car runs perfect. the code just comes on randomly. I could find no vacuum leaks and my intercooler boots seem nice and supple still. So tonight I decided to follow Detroit Tuned's advise and put a new belt on incase mine was slipping. when I got the belt off, I noticed the alternator, would hardly turn and felt very uneven and rough. I think it was causing belt slip. luckily I had a spare low mileage alternator I picked up a few yrs ago. put it on. lets hope it cures my problem.

 

I think Jan has had some issues with tunes when it is cold throwing codes.

 

the cold weather affecting tune is not the problem. I live in Northwest Indiana. temps range from -15F to 100F I have had Jan's tune on my car since 2012 without a problem. The cold weather might have helped kill my alternator, but I got almost 150K out of this one.


I'll need to drive around for a while with my fingers crossed for a few hundred miles with no codes thrown to say it's fixed