Need help identifying oil screens and small orfices
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From: Denial
Need help identifying oil screens and small orfices
My sister bought a 2003 Mini Cooper (r50) with 130k miles that was on a salvage title. She ran it fine through the winter months. First warm day of the spring, her car failed. She claims she was 'just driving it' and it suddenly lost all power and would not restart. After cooling down 'a bit' the car would stutter while starting and eventually restarted but was running so rough that the car would not move, and after a few moments of running stalled and would not re-start again. After being towed back to her house and garaged overnight, the re-started without problem, ran to operating temperature and then the symptoms started again and eventually stalled/unable to run.
When checking the fluids, her oil was 3 QTS LOW. I have informed her to do an oil change and filter the oil to check for flakes/parts in the sump/oil filter element -- no word on when this will be done. Her oil pressure idiot light is not on during the cold start, but eventually comes on after the engine reaches about 140F, slight revving to 1.5~2k rpm and the light turns back off but returns when at idle with warm oil. My assumption is that her oil pump needs replaced, her timing chain tensioner, possibly the timing chain and the VVT device on the cam, but I do not know what other parts will have a filter/small orifice that flakes would be stuck in and causing more issues if everything else is replaced/fixed.
I have checked the fuel pressure rail w/key on not running, 45 psi, when running at idle was between 50~60 psi.
Her husband removed the downpipe/cat thinking the cat was plugged...
Her radiator fluid was fine, little diluted but nothing horribad. The thermostat does open and the water begins circulating in the 180~195F range, low speed cooling fan kicks on @ 220F. Jumpering the high speed relay engages the fan as well.
There is no smoke from the exhaust, the oil and coolant looks clean (no water/milk in oil, no oil in coolant)
There are no engine codes that are relevant (evap control - small leak/gas cap is the only code in computer)
My concern is the oil pressure. I've been trying to rule out the "oh its this" that everyone else is saying. I'm holding off on replacing coil pack, plugs and wires as the car runs fine from a cold start. I am wanting to get back over to her garage so I can remove the knock sensor from the block to see if the ecu is playing with the timing because of engine noise.
Any suggestions that I haven't already hit upon?
When checking the fluids, her oil was 3 QTS LOW. I have informed her to do an oil change and filter the oil to check for flakes/parts in the sump/oil filter element -- no word on when this will be done. Her oil pressure idiot light is not on during the cold start, but eventually comes on after the engine reaches about 140F, slight revving to 1.5~2k rpm and the light turns back off but returns when at idle with warm oil. My assumption is that her oil pump needs replaced, her timing chain tensioner, possibly the timing chain and the VVT device on the cam, but I do not know what other parts will have a filter/small orifice that flakes would be stuck in and causing more issues if everything else is replaced/fixed.
I have checked the fuel pressure rail w/key on not running, 45 psi, when running at idle was between 50~60 psi.
Her husband removed the downpipe/cat thinking the cat was plugged...
Her radiator fluid was fine, little diluted but nothing horribad. The thermostat does open and the water begins circulating in the 180~195F range, low speed cooling fan kicks on @ 220F. Jumpering the high speed relay engages the fan as well.
There is no smoke from the exhaust, the oil and coolant looks clean (no water/milk in oil, no oil in coolant)
There are no engine codes that are relevant (evap control - small leak/gas cap is the only code in computer)
My concern is the oil pressure. I've been trying to rule out the "oh its this" that everyone else is saying. I'm holding off on replacing coil pack, plugs and wires as the car runs fine from a cold start. I am wanting to get back over to her garage so I can remove the knock sensor from the block to see if the ecu is playing with the timing because of engine noise.
Any suggestions that I haven't already hit upon?