So I swapped my failed CV axle this evening (and the left side outer ball joint.... what a PITA!!!). Everything was going along swimmingly (except separating the ball joint from the LCA... again, PITA) until I attempted to refill the trans.
The fill plug didn't want to budge, so I thought I'd introduce it to Mr.s Ingersoll and Rand. Still nothing. I hit it w/ some penetrating oil and let it set while I finished torquing all the nuts and bolts around the wheel carrier. I tried the impact again, and it just sat there hammering. When it finally did move, it had simply rounded the plug head.
#1. So much for 30 ft/lbs of torque (though 14 Indiana and Illinois winters likely didn't help).
#2. What's my best bet to remove this plug? I have a set of extractors (but I don't know if they go to 17 mm), but I'm afraid it's too round for that. There's really no room for a pipe wrench and vise grips just spin too. Weld a nut to it? Left hand thread a hole into the middle?
#3. I have to take it for an alignment anyway, maybe it's worth letting the pros fix this..... I didn't drain the whole trans, I just put my catch basin under it when I popped the axle. Is there any chance of the trans surviving a ~15 mile trip at least 50% low on gear oil?

 

Am I reading the diagrams at realoem correctly that part #23101035696 is what I need?
I'll probably need a gasket too 23100630776...

I wonder if I'm lucky enough that Autozone will have a plug in stock that's the right size and pitch?

 

I would get the plug and gasket and then get someone to weld a nut on the plug. Between the heat and the good surface, I'd bet it comes right off.

I don't know for sure, but I don't think I'd risk driving the transmission on half oil. a tow dolly from u-haul is less than $100/day, or even a flat bed tow isn't much more than that.

 

Yeah, I didn't really think that driving on half (or less) oil was a good idea... especially given the Midlands reputation for longevity. If I could get the welder closer (short electric cord), I think that I could probably to the welding myself... sigh... WHAT A PITA!!

 

OK, so it turned out that I did have an 11/16 bolt extractor... but it was too far gone for even that!
The solution ended up being an impact driver (the hammer kind, not a 1/4" chuck battery power tool), enough impact extensions to get me past the wheel carrier, and a 5/8 12 point socket.


I'm sure it's fine for reuse!!! LOL

To answer a question that BMW/MINI doesn't on the diagrams, the fill plug on an R50 (and the drain plug, I assume, since they have the same part #) is M16-1.50. The OEM plug is ~11/16" long and magnetic. Dorman part #65219 is the right size and pitch, but it's about 7/8" overall.
Given my desire to not have Cooper in the shop at the school for a week waiting on the OEM plug, I ended up using both my original copper gasket and the one that came w/ the new plug, which reduced the length difference to somewhere between 1/16-1/8". For $3.50, I'm willing to even still buy the OEM should it become necessary.

Sorry, no comparison pix of the 2 plugs, my phone died. Also, no installed pix.... but picture the hex head of the OEM fill plug.... only silver and marked "M16-1.50", LOL.

Anyway, I no longer feel sick at my stomach and Cooper will be going in for an alignment today. (Finally!) They wouldn't do it last time on account of the separated inner CV boot.

 

Wow..that's all I have to say about that!

 

So, should I be concerned about the filings on the plug, or is that amount normal and acceptable for a 14 year old vehicle?