To fix or not to fix?
Don't do the oil pan gasket until you replace/re-seal the Crank Position Sensor O-ring. Most of the time, that's the culprit. If you should need a new Oil Filter Housing (which I doubt-probably just a gasket), I have a spare I can sell you...cheap, along with valve cover gasket, etc, etc.!
They said the reason for my lack of boost was because the clutch was slipping. I had a check engine light for my alternator overcharging and o2 sensor, but when I cleared it with my reader, they didn't come back. I did however have an airbag light which they said my firmware needs to be updated, and they don't know if that would clear the airbag light. In regards to the brake line I did't see where they were talking about, but I will prob just ziptie it out of the way. A lot of the repairs seem pretty easy to do from all the How To's on the forum and the videos on youtube. I have most of the necessary tools, just need to get an engine support and transmission jack.
For a clutch to slip so bad that it prevents the engine/super charger from producing boost, it would make the car almost impossible to drive. I'd be interested to know how a slipping clutch would prevent the Mini from producing boost...
Firmware update for the airbags? I've never heard of one. This dealer should've been able to list every fault code that was registered when hooked up to the ecu. It's unusual for a dealership to be unsure if a particular repair will turn off a CEL.
For a clutch to slip so bad that it prevents the engine/super charger from producing boost, it would make the car almost impossible to drive. I'd be interested to know how a slipping clutch would prevent the Mini from producing boost...
For a clutch to slip so bad that it prevents the engine/super charger from producing boost, it would make the car almost impossible to drive. I'd be interested to know how a slipping clutch would prevent the Mini from producing boost...
I think my crank pulley has died!! My car started to overheat, and the abs and dsc lights came on. I put in my volt reader, and my voltage ranged from 9-11 volts. These are symptoms from a failed harmonic balancer right? I got this info from another post about abs and dsc lights on.
Since the car did not overheat, I bet it is just a bad alternator...
If the harmonic damper fails, you loose EVERYTHING...so no alternator,no ac, no sc (if an s) but more importantly no waterpump...
Sounds like the alternator died, and you drove on as the battery got weaker...and weaker...and as the voltage got low...odd stuff happens...once the battery light comes on, it means the voltage is low...first to shut off (as intended) is the power hungry PS pump...then the time you can keep driving depends on the load (lights, etc) and how good the battery is...
If the harmonic damper fails, you loose EVERYTHING...so no alternator,no ac, no sc (if an s) but more importantly no waterpump...
Sounds like the alternator died, and you drove on as the battery got weaker...and weaker...and as the voltage got low...odd stuff happens...once the battery light comes on, it means the voltage is low...first to shut off (as intended) is the power hungry PS pump...then the time you can keep driving depends on the load (lights, etc) and how good the battery is...
Wow that stock crank pulley was a pain to take out. It broke two of the pulley tools from autozone. The bolts snapped inside, and I had to drill it to break it apart. After the install, my car had some misfire codes popping up. I don't know why, but I changed out my spark plugs and it hasn't come back yet. We will see on my commute to and from work this week. I'm glad to say ATI crank pulley installed, along with new belt tensioner and powerflex bushings.
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