2005 Cooper S with 143k miles. Still on factory clutch and components from when it was rolled off the dealership lot.

- There's no leaks at/around the slave cylinder
- No loss of brake fluid from the reservoir
- No dramatic change in pedal pressure
- No grinding of gears in any direction

But the engagement point is a lot sooner than before. Almost immediately after you lift pressure off the pedal, the clutch engages. I recall the point being a bit further up the pedal stroke until recently... Maybe 3/4 of the way from where the pedal originally rests.

Can a slave cylinder be faulty without it leaking fluid from its seals? Or should I stop being in denial and start leaning towards replacing the clutch assembly? If the friction material on the clutch disc was almost worn away, wouldn't the engagement point be later through the pedal's length of travel?

 

Is the clutch slipping?

If it's still working and shifting ok then why worry about? A low release point isn't a bad thing.

 

Could be linkage. Also, do you know last time fluid was changed?

http://new.minimania.com/MINI_Cooper...mission_Fluids

Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.

 

No, clutch is not slipping. The change in engagement point isn't something I'm used to, especially without changing anything out. Trying to determine if this is a sign of a part that's about to fail or not.

Dont know when fluid was last changed. Can fluid or linkage affect when the clutch engages? I figured if there was a problem, it would be a clutch or hydraulic issue.

 

The clutch slave cylinder is the lowest point in the hydraulic system, hence moisture and crud can collect there. Bleeding brakes doesn't do a thing for the slave cylinder. If you don't know when it was bled last, it should be done. Do diligent research before attempting this. You MUST fully depress the slave cylinder plunger and keep it depressed while bleeding.

 

According to the previous owner, no service has been done on the transmission or the clutch system since it was first bought. I've decided to replace the slave cylinder and bleed the system to see if anything changes. I just need to decide which method of bleeding to follow. Pressure bleeding seems to be the popular way, but there's also a way of starting from the end of the pipe where the slave is connected and applying pressure at that end to push the air up and out of the system?

 

For bleeding and replacing the slave check out our article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm. It should be useful to you. Personally, I like to use the Motive Products Power Bleeder. It's a pretty useful device and can be used on different vehicles as well. Can check it out here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg5.htm#item20. Let me know if you have any questions.