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Electrical issue....starter?alternator?ground?

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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 09:15 AM
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Electrical issue....starter?alternator?ground?

Hello everyone,

Had the car (R52s auto) on jack stands for three weeks doing minor suspension work (strut brace, motor mount). I had a HORRIBLE time getting the strut out of the knuckle and getting it back in, but eventually (3 weeks with some bad weather and no garage) got it back together.

I had to to jump start it which did not surprise me as the temps have been single digits and it had been sitting so long. She started and I made my way to Autozone for some unrelated parts. When I came back out, key in and NOTHING. Luckily, they had a jump pack and I was started up in a couple of minutes. Ten minutes later on the drive home, some dash lights start flashing (the circle/triangle/exclamation point in yellow) and the ABS yellow light. The red "battery" light flickers on and off and I start losing power. Although not true limp mode, I make it the half-mile home with what seems like electrical surging.

My first thought was alternator, but hoped only a battery issue. The next morning, I check the battery and it registers at 11.71 volts. I already had a new battery ready that reads 12.7 so I switch it out and hope. I turn the key and all interior/dash lights appear normal, but I get a whirring sound from under the hood and no start. It is not the typical clicking I expect from a low battery, but something definitely spinning and no relays clicking.

I could try to jump it and get it hooked up at Autozone to check the alternator (they can tell that from their scanner right?). If I am able to jump start it, does that indicate an issue with perhaps a ground as the power is not getting from the battery to the ignition system?

I am really good at throwing money at the car and changing the wrong parts, but I try like heck to avoid dealer service work. I do have a local mechanic who does well with German cars, but I had a bad experience with some minor replacements he did without authorization and were NOT needed.

Thanks everyone, I love this site for all of the leads/advice!
 

Last edited by Moby1kenobi; Dec 21, 2016 at 09:15 AM. Reason: car info
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 01:06 PM
  #2  
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gumbedamit
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From: Atlanta Georgia
Originally Posted by Moby1kenobi
Hello everyone,

Had the car (R52s auto) on jack stands for three weeks doing minor suspension work (strut brace, motor mount). I had a HORRIBLE time getting the strut out of the knuckle and getting it back in, but eventually (3 weeks with some bad weather and no garage) got it back together.

I had to to jump start it which did not surprise me as the temps have been single digits and it had been sitting so long. She started and I made my way to Autozone for some unrelated parts. When I came back out, key in and NOTHING. Luckily, they had a jump pack and I was started up in a couple of minutes. Ten minutes later on the drive home, some dash lights start flashing (the circle/triangle/exclamation point in yellow) and the ABS yellow light. The red "battery" light flickers on and off and I start losing power. Although not true limp mode, I make it the half-mile home with what seems like electrical surging.

My first thought was alternator, but hoped only a battery issue. The next morning, I check the battery and it registers at 11.71 volts. I already had a new battery ready that reads 12.7 so I switch it out and hope. I turn the key and all interior/dash lights appear normal, but I get a whirring sound from under the hood and no start. It is not the typical clicking I expect from a low battery, but something definitely spinning and no relays clicking.

I could try to jump it and get it hooked up at Autozone to check the alternator (they can tell that from their scanner right?). If I am able to jump start it, does that indicate an issue with perhaps a ground as the power is not getting from the battery to the ignition system?

I am really good at throwing money at the car and changing the wrong parts, but I try like heck to avoid dealer service work. I do have a local mechanic who does well with German cars, but I had a bad experience with some minor replacements he did without authorization and were NOT needed.

Thanks everyone, I love this site for all of the leads/advice!
What year is it ?

If its a 2007 or newer you need to register the battery and on some 2005 and 2006......REALLY....not kidding.
They have an " Intelligent Battery Monitor" attached to the battery cable.
A mini dealer has to do this. They "" link" the battery with all the electronics so the battery recognizes the car.

Also could be bad alternator.

May the force be with you.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 08:44 PM
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Thanks for the reply. It is a late '05 manufacture date. I will have to see if it has the battery monitoring. I had read some about it, and hoped my car was not so advanced. I actually found a cheap alternator on amazon, but will check connections and possibly jump it and drive to Autozone to test it first.

Thanks again.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 09:21 PM
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Sounds like it can be an alternator problem. Autozone can definitely check it for you. I had the same problems in the summer.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2016 | 07:45 AM
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gumbedamit
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From: Atlanta Georgia
Originally Posted by Moby1kenobi
Thanks for the reply. It is a late '05 manufacture date. I will have to see if it has the battery monitoring. I had read some about it, and hoped my car was not so advanced. I actually found a cheap alternator on amazon, but will check connections and possibly jump it and drive to Autozone to test it first.

Thanks again.
Why not just buy a $15 volt meter and test to see if your alternator is charging, then you will never have to worry about getting a jump to go to Autozone for them to do the same thing, and you will be adding tools to your arsenal that you will use down the line. 13.8-14.4 volts should be optimal.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2016 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by gumbedamit
Why not just buy a $15 volt meter and test to see if your alternator is charging, then you will never have to worry about getting a jump to go to Autozone for them to do the same thing, and you will be adding tools to your arsenal that you will use down the line. 13.8-14.4 volts should be optimal.
Yea I bought one of those cigarette lighters that shows the voltage on amazon for real cheap.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2016 | 07:38 PM
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I have a multimeter. I will try jump starting and measuring tomorrow. The weather today was not cooperative for working outside. I will update in a couple days when I know more and hopefully solve my issue.

Thanks to both of you....
 
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Old Dec 23, 2016 | 04:05 PM
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Electrical

Whirring noise makes me wonder about the starter solenoid.

If needed, alternator and cable.

http://new.minimania.com/part/NME871...52-Mini-Cooper

http://new.minimania.com/part/NME764...ctured-R50-R52

Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2016 | 05:34 PM
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Update: I go out today and try to turn it over....whirring, not start, electrics seem OK otherwise (interior lights, dash lights). I turn key off and check the battery...12.57v. I hook up jumper cables and the car starts easily. I remove cables and check the battery while the MINI idles....it hovers between 13.4v and 14.3v. I shut the hood and take off for a quick drive to see if any dash lights or power issues arise. About 5 miles in (no issues yet) I get on it from about 20mph to 60mph on a level straightaway. I hear a couple of chimes and the red seatbelt light flickers (I am belted in) until I let off the accelerator. I finish the mile or so home with zero issues (including a steep incline for a half mile or so). I park and shut her off. After a minute I try to start back up.....it starts!

Sooooooooo, there is still something going on, although based on the voltage increase at idle, the alternator is doing something. But, why at moderately high acceleration, did I get some sort of electrical problem (chime and seatbelt light)? And should the initial 12.5v have been enough to start the car?

Thanks for the continued suggestions and support!
 
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