Hi all,

Looking for a little advice. I have a 2005 S cabrio, with 115k.

My strut mounts are (shocker) absolutely shot, and my mechanic finally refused to let me keep putting the repair off. I'm thinking that I would like to do the IE fixed camber plates, after reading about them. Any reason to NOT do these, vs OEM replacement mounts? I love driving, but will admit I have no plans to track this car, just street driving. Is it a waste to do the fixed camber plates? (It's only a hundred bucks more, give or take, and I have been reading that they last longer than the replacement strut mounts which are prone to failing again.)

I'm also getting the water pump/serp belt/idler pulley replaced at the same time, due to some leaks from the water pump/noise from the idler pulley.

While I'm racking up a $2k bill, is there anything else I should have done while the car is torn apart and out of commission for a few days? The obvious answer seems like it would be replacing the struts with upgraded ones, but I don't know if they are bad enough to warrant that. (I do know they are original to the car, so maybe?)

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

I don't think I'd go with camber plates if I were you; mostly because they'll cause you to chew up the front tires a a little faster. I think I'd spend a bit more money than what the camber plates cost, and put in a larger rear sway bar. Same general effect on handling, but without the accelerated tire wear.

If you're getting a new belt, I'd go with a smaller supercharger pulley (and new spark plugs to match it)

If the shocks are original to the car, then they are done, guaranteed. Koni FSD's have a great ride and better than stock handling, but are pricey. Bilsteins are cheaper than OEM and have pretty good ride/handling. Koni sports (yellow) will give great handling but stiffer ride than stock.

If you get new shocks, it's also probably advisable to replace your bump stops, spring pads, and all the other rubber/foam bits that help you get down the road smoothly.

 

Thank you, that's helpful! I'm annoyed about spending the $$, but would rather not pay extra labor in a year or so to do something I could do now. At this point, between a clutch upgrade last year and now all this work, I'm committed to keeping the car for a while anyway. :D

 

Power to ya. One of the vendors on the forum often has KONI FSD at sometimes better than half off, and +1 on the rest of what he said.

 

You didn't mention it, but I would have them check the supercharger oil if they are taking the front end off to do the water pump. It would only take an extra 15 minutes to do if everything is alreay off, depends on how much they are taking apart to get at the water pump though.

 

If they haven't been done yet, then the front lower control arm bushings need replacing. Use the polyurethane ones like Powerflex, not OEM. While at it, replace the lower engine mount and transmission mount as well. Once you get those done in addition to the new struts, you'll think you just got a new car!

 

If you are doing the water pump, might be a good time to check on the crankshaft position sensor and/or its o-ring. O-ring tends to flatten out over time and the seal breaks down allowing oil to weep onto your engine block.

Also check on the dipstick o-ring in case its leaking. Both of these items are on the front side of the motor. Time to replace the radiator hoses? Thermostat and thermostat housing? Radiator? Really revamp your cooling system with all new parts.

Crankshaft position sensor.
I replaced the entire sensor (elective) at 115k miles on my ’05. My other sensor (Camshaft position sensor) died (check engine light) at 114k miles so I was not taking any chances while the car was apart.

Front of the motor underneath the supercharger


Removed


Hole in the block that it plugs into. 10mm smaller bolt secures it to the block


New vs old



Thermostat if interested


Dipstick o-ring. The tube goes right into the block of the motor. The only thing preventing it from leaking is the o-ring. Over time, this o-ring breaks down and allows oil to seep past and onto your motor.