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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
Apologies, I have posted this on another thread link but I've had no response and I'm hoping this may reach people who can help/advise.
In summary, I concluded I had a CAS problem, tried to fix it soldering the connector pins on the board, ended up burning the CAS & GND wire. I intend to get a cloned CAS, fix harness but I'm concerned if I get a long non-starting crank again it might end up the same.
Here's the long version, hope it makes sense... R56 Cooper, 2007, 90k miles Did all the timing gear about 18 months ago as cams had both slipped. My first major venture into vehicle DIY, challenging but all ok. Just recently had the ABS/service - 'you name it' lights plus red steering lock and immobilisation. Car ran and started absolutely fine (unless immobilised). Researched the immobilisation - got ISTA+, reset ELV counter & bought & fitted lock motor emulator. Padlock comes back though!! Chap who sold me the emulator says please check connections in CAS module - some of his customers have solved issue by soldering the push connectors on the CAS... I'll come back to this.... So the ABS lights etc.... sometimes the car is fine, sometimes the warnings come on after a short distance. When it happens the fuel gauge goes weird, seems to happen at corners/roundabouts - it goes to empty and back again. Also speedo stops working. Other things thinking back over the past few months... on odd occasions car has cranked for ages without starting (only 2 or 3 times), wipers came on once when I was fiddling and wouldn't stop. I've noticed that the remote key fob sometimes takes more than one press to open or lock. Regarding codes: 93FB: No message (veh speed) from DSC,ACSM/MRS receiver/DSC transmitter 6115,6116,610F EPS: message error wheel speeds 5E01,5E02,5E00,5E03: DSC speed sensor (each wheel) - short circuit 2FF6: DME: veh speed signal A0B5: CAS: fault, road speed signal A3AC: message (distance travelled) faulty, receiver KOMBI, transmitter DSC
5E52: DSC CU, monitoring error
5DD4: DSC CU, internal fault
5DE8,5DD9: DSC CU, internal fault
5DAA: DSC hydraulic unit, supply, pump motor D35D: Message error CAS, receiver DSC, transmitter CAS E194: No message, receiver CCC/MASK/RAD2, transmitter CAS A0AA: CAS: control unit fault
I'm a real novice to this stuff but like to learn and have been on a steep learning curve re ISTA, wiring diagrams etc... I have by no means extensively checked the wiring but there's no sign of water ingress or damage anywhere. I've had the car since it was about 3 years old so know most of its history. I convinced myself it had to be a faulty ABS module as ISTA said it couldn't communicate, so I sent int off to be fixed - but got it back as no fault. So after the pain of removing it, I had the pain refitting and how the hell was I going to bleed it. Fortunately I did it when the car was feeling ok and ISTA communicated to it for about half of the bleed programme before losing it, which got them working again but my problem was still there.
Having studied the wiring diagrams to the best of my abilities I noticed a lot of this seems to go through the CAS, and with the experience on the ELV emulator I decided to look at the CAS. I got it out and soldered the connector pins to the board. I'm not great at soldering but I think I did reasonably ok. I put it back in the car half expecting it to not work but it did, and no fault. I went for a drive which was fine. I left an ELM dongle plugged in the OBD and left it thinking that hadn't gone too bad, but it might just be a lucky run - as I say the faults are intermittent. Anyway, a few hours later I decided to hook up the laptop and check for faults (K-can cable). It took a few presses of key, I hooked up with ignition on, engine not started. OBD seemed to have turned off so pulled it out and put it in again. Decided to start car. It long cranked but no start, and I could smell burning and smoke from under dash. I reached in and pulled out the CAS connector before it set on fire but it's well burnt.
So, I'm now a bit stuck. I fear it could have been bad soldering - but I drove it fine for about 10 minutes, stopping once, getting out of the car locking it and restarting...and it was ok I'm going to get a cloned CAS and fix the wiring, luckily the damage stops at a splice X3279 centre of dash. But I am worried about plugging in the 'new' CAS and it happening again. I really don't understand why I've occasionally had this long cranking non start, and is there some other problem causing this that could also overload the CAS again.
This is what the CAS system looks like:
The yellow boxes are the wire sizes mm2, the red pins are the burnt out ones. It looks like pin 22 has taken a load of current (but harness seems ok) and that this has also gone down the ground wire (pin 12) which is the burnt out wire. I don't think my soldering is that bad that I shorted between 22 and 12 but I just don't know what I need to check before trying a new CAS. Fuses F34 & F49 both ok. I was also considering putting a fuse in protect the ground wire just in case, does that seem ridiculous? Hopefully it might be obvious to someone which pins I may hve shorted to create the failure during long cranking. Your advice would be greatly appreciated please Dave
My theory is I've made a bad solder on one or more of the connector legs of pin 22. This feeds the starter motor coil during cranking, and since it was a long non start crank the pin got very hot and melted causing a much bigger failure resulting in to much current going down the unit's ground pin 12, burning out the wire until it got to the splice where the effective wire size increases. The current to starter motor was ok, didn't damage the wire, just overheating at terminal. Don't know why the crank without start, hoping a fault of the CAS. In hindsight I think I should have just soldered pin 34 as this looks like the power to the unit which if that was dodgy could have caused the intermittent problems, and also pin 31 the wheel speed from ABS. Does that sound plausible? Any other thoughts?
I'm currently working with a fellow minion who's got a same issue. He bought the emulator and it doesn't half of the time.
He replaced the steering column from an 09 that doesn't have the mechanical lock. I was able to marry a donor CAS and key to his ecu and transfer his original key. The issue I'm stuck with now is that after transferring his key, the car will start BUT doesn't lock and unlock. This function works woth the donor keys or if i program another key to the donor CAS.
It's still in R&D phase but it's doable.
I also do cloning and testing if you want. I have an 07 that i can test your cas and ecu if you need to. Pm me for details IF you're in the States.
I'm currently working with a fellow minion who's got a same issue. He bought the emulator and it doesn't half of the time.
He replaced the steering column from an 09 that doesn't have the mechanical lock. I was able to marry a donor CAS and key to his ecu and transfer his original key. The issue I'm stuck with now is that after transferring his key, the car will start BUT doesn't lock and unlock. This function works woth the donor keys or if i program another key to the donor CAS.
It's still in R&D phase but it's doable.
I also do cloning and testing if you want. I have an 07 that i can test your cas and ecu if you need to. Pm me for details IF you're in the States.
Thanks MTB, I am in England but thanks for the offer.
Just a quick update - this is a map of the is/outs of the CAS
it provides engine start signal to DME (pin 28), so I think my dodgy CAS gave signal to crank (starter motor solenoid pin 22) but DME didn't get signal which presumably turns on fuel pump etc... So I had a long crank, no start. A bad solder at pin 22 may have meant big heat build up, melt down and current going down unit's earth feed pin 12, burning out the wire.
Also, all the other problems like ABS light, speedo, airbag etc... they all go through the CAS.
Anyway, I got someone who could clone my burnt CAS and fixed up the wiring with a donor connector. I put it all together and she's alive again!
Car's been off the road for about 4 weeks so pleased to get her back. Hope that's a the last issue for a while!
Hope that helps someone.
Well that didn't last long! Back to where I started - ABS light, a/bag light, vehicle on lift light, steering lock light, speedo not working, fuel gauge miss-behaving. Intermittent naturally!!
I'm thinking could it be a power interruption or something. Wondering about the terminal 30 relay in the JBE?
Help!!!!!!
[QUOTE = tazzbug; 4407164] Tengo el mismo problema. Cuando saco el relé del interruptor de accesorios, el ruido todavía se produce y cuando pongo la llave, los limpiaparabrisas se encienden. Parece que solo sucede cuando hace calor porque temprano en la mañana no lo hace. También mi DTC y la luz de freno (amarilla) se encienden en el grupo. A veces no se enciende, pero 7 de cada 10 veces se encienden las luces. ¿Tendría eso algo que ver con el ruido de clic?
También tengo una batería nueva en el coche.
¿Alguien puede dar algunos consejos de lo que esto puede ser? [/ Quote]
TENGO UN PROBLEMA CON UN R56 2009 SE BLOQUEO EL TIMÓN Y NO DA SWITCH, ME MARCO CÓDIGOS DEL CAS A0B5/A118 YA SE REPROGRAMO EL CAS Y SIGUE DANDO EL MISMO PROBLEMA, CREO QUE EL PROBLEMA VA POR EL INTERRUPTOR DE ENCENDIDO PERO NECESITO AYUDA QUIZÁS A ALGUIEN MÁS LE SUCEDIÓ?? Ayuda!!!!!!
That was one of the issues I had as well, sometimes my headlights would just refuse to turn off and I would have to unplug the battery. The strange thing with is that the symptoms were never consistent, it just did a lot of random crazy stuff.
1. Headlights refusing to turn off and would only turn off after the battery is unplugged.
2. All lights flickering like the battery is dying or there's a bad connection, this would happen when the key is inserted in the cradle.
3. Clicking rattling noise from the fuse box that happened as soon as the key is inserted in the cradle and sometimes even after the key was removed it would continue.
4. Difficulty starting the car, happened very inconsistently, car would crank once and stop, car would start and die in 2 seconds.
5. The car would throw a bunch of random CAS module codes that were never the same.
6. The DSC Light would come on a lot, I could even make it come on by wiggling the key in the cradle. (I had already eliminated the cradle as a culprit by swapping it with another) I could also produce the clicking on the fuse box by wiggling the key in the cradle, And I could also shut off the car by wiggling the key....... STRANGE!!!
Originally Posted by Bcoday
SYMPTOMS:
1. Loud and persistent clicking noise coming from the fuse panel
2. Car would either start immediately, eventually start after repeated attempts and methods, or not start at all. It would turn over as long as there was enough battery power but when it wasn't starting, nothing seemed to work. We noticed that it was most problematic when it had been sitting in the heat and direct sunlight (Houston, TX).
3. Brake lights would remain on when the car was shut off and the doors locked. This would drain the battery if not noticed.
Fix Attempts:
1. Replaced battery - it was overdue anyway.
2. Replaced alternator - it tested poorly but probably didn't need to be replaced yet.
3. Replaced starter - It had clearly degraded in effectiveness due to some of the harsh repeated attempts to get the thing started.
Hi, new to the forum and bringing this thread back alive please. I have EXACTLY the same issues that both of you describe on my 2010 R55 Clubman S (6-speed). I purchased the car a few months ago from a dealer in VA that sold me a lemon and haven't been able to use the car since.
Really frustrating, I replaced the battery, replaced fuses and relays, and sent the FRM to repair/reprogram because the car arrived dead and was jump started. Same issues.
The car starts, but my symptoms and codes:
1. Loud clicking noises coming from the fuse panel on the passenger side, starts when I turn on the ignition and lasts about 5 seconds.
2. Radio does not work and does not power on (nothing shows on the LCD).
3. Red "BRAKE" light in the tachometer when the arm brake is up is fluctuating in intensity when car is idling.
4. Rear brake lights sometimes do not turn off and drain the battery.
5. CAS codes: A0A9, A0BE, A0BF, A0C0
6. DSC-ABS codes: 5DFC, D36A, D36B, D36C
7. Climate control codes: E72B, E72C (a/c does work)
I already spent so much time and money trying to diagnose the issues, and car is not really usable. Any recent experience with CAS repair service? Should I even bother or should I just buy a used module and send for cloning? Does anyone know if the R56 uses the same as R55 and what is the part number?
@ktm
Carefully check for signs water intrusion on and around the JBE and its connectors.
Thanks, I took out both the CAS and the JBE today. Both of them look like they’ve been messed with before. The CAS has “OLD” written with a marker on and was missing some mounting screws, and the JBE didn’t have mounting screws either and looks new. No corrosion on the cable connectors or the module’s sockets.
I also pulled the two relays on the JBE and tested them on my tester and they are fine.
Do you think I should get another CAS or just send it to one of the repair services? Should I check that first before the JBE?
Have you cleared all the codes with a scan tool? Do they all immediately return when you turn on the ignition?
One possible cause of the problems could be a loose power or ground connection for the JBE. With minimal reassembly, reconnect the CAS and JBE modules. Verify that their connectors are fully seated and that the JBE large main power cable is firmly secured. I believe that the JBE also may have a brown ground wire near the top that runs rearward. Make sure the ground wire is clean and tight. Then, turn on the ignition to see whether the relay clicking is gone.
Have you cleared all the codes with a scan tool? Do they all immediately return when you turn on the ignition?
One possible cause of the problems could be a loose power or ground connection for the JBE. With minimal reassembly, reconnect the CAS and JBE modules. Verify that their connectors are fully seated and that the JBE large main power cable is firmly secured. I believe that the JBE also may have a brown ground wire near the top that runs rearward. Make sure the ground wire is clean and tight. Then, turn on the ignition to see whether the relay clicking is gone.
I cleared the codes with a Foxwell scan tool, they come right back up immediately as you said.
The ground cables in the driver's wheel well were also checked and were fine. I'll check the JBE main power cable and ground, but when I removed the JBE everything seems to be fine with the connectors and power cables. I really think during a jump start or because the old battery was dead something got damaged when they jump started it several times.
Can your Foxwell examine the JBE, CAS, and FRM modules to see if they are properly coded to your Clubman?
Are you saying that this^ correlation exists? If so, it's quite possible.
Is your battery currently fully charged? Did you register the replacement battery to your car?
And did the codes immediately return after starting the engine or after only turning on the ignition?
I don't think my Foxwell can do that. Not sure at this point I've done too many things to correlate, but after the things I changed I did clear the codes, started the engine and they returned.
What do you mean by register the battery? I guess if I'm asking I didn't do that. But I did fully charge it yes it's on a trickle charger.
At this point all I can correlate is the issues I detailed in my original post, and the fact that the radio doesn't turn on either (other than the codes I detailed and the clicking sound and backlight not turning off).
Should I start with a CAS module service? It seemed to solve it for Veli410.
I have a base-model 2012 Mini Cooper Hardtop with the N16 engine. When I connect my Launch scan tool, I can select control modules to view general module information, to clear codes, to view live data streams, and to perform various actuation tests. The image below shows the first page that is shown (general information) when I select the CAS module. Two important items on this page include my car's VIN and a Coding Index. These items tell me that the CAS module knows my car's VIN and that the CAS module is coded. Check whether you can use your Foxwell to view similar pages for the CAS, JBE, and FRM modules of your car and whether each module knows your VIN and has a Coding Index that is not 0.
Also clear all the fault codes again and then check whether they all return after turning on the ignition without starting the engine.
It's quite possible that the CAS is blown, but it makes a lot of sense first to rule out the easy and inexpensive possibilities.
Last edited by Maybe, maybe not; Yesterday at 06:27 AM.
Thank you, googled the battery registration and realized my scanner doesn't do it. I just purchased the Foxwell NT510 Elite on Amazon and should be able to do it tomorrow. However, I think I still need a CAS service as half of my car's symptoms are exactly the CAS issues I read in this thread.
The NT510 should provide answers about VIN recognition by and coding of your JBE, CAS, and FRM. Registering your battery is also crucial given the many electrical-related problems. This just scratches the surface of the wealth of diagnostic information that the NT510 can provide.
Your and Veli410's Minis share many common symptoms. But please correct me if I'm wrong. Veli410's Mini occasionally experienced cranking problems that you haven't mentioned. In addition, your radio doesn't work at all. Veli410 did not mention any radio issues. The radio could potentially have a short to ground that is taking down the K-CAN network, so it may be worthwhile checking whether unplugging the radio stops the JBE relay clicking.
Thanks, that's correct I do not have cranking issue, and the radio is completely dead yes. I'm doing the test today disconnecting the radio completely and trying to start the car. I won't be able to check the modules' coding since I'm receiving the Foxwell after I will already ship to CAS to service.
If the radio is bad, I bought a used one from eBay as a replacement, and I also bought a repair service that includes hardware repair to the CAS3 module and will ship it tomorrow since the shop said after reviewing my codes that A0A9 from their experience requires a hardware fix.
Will update shortly, and also after getting the CAS back from repair and relearning the new battery. I hope I won't need something with the JBE too since as you can see in the pictures it looks almost new (no damage or corrosion). This has been one of the worst used car experiences in my life, and I had many BMWs and Mercedes in the past, none had these many issues and so difficult to diagnose :/
Good luck with the fix! The NT510 should serve you well in the short term and the long term.
Are you potentially in a position to recover some repair costs from the seller via small claims court?
first to update that I disconnected and took out the radio (both the speedometer with the radio LCD and the CD unit below) and the clicking is still there when I start the ignition and engine. The car on the first press actually just made a click sound and didn’t start, second press the engine started, so maybe the starter is bad too.
CAS going to repair tomorrow. I’ll put everything back together when it’s back from repair and check. If the JBE is not original can I program the VIN myself?
Regarding the dealer, I doubt it since it’s a used old car I signed all the as-is no warranty forms and I’m in FL and dealer in VA…
It's nice to rule out the radio as the source of the issue. It also strengthens your case for a fried CAS module. My guess would be that CAS replacement will also eliminate the intermittent no crank.
If necessary, reprogramming the VIN to the JBE generally requires professional service. Hopefully, that will not be necessary.
After clearing all fault codes, do all codes return immediately after turning on the ignition without starting the engine?
Last edited by Maybe, maybe not; Yesterday at 11:11 AM.
It's nice to rule out the radio as the source of the issue. It also strengthens your case for a fried CAS module. My guess would be that CAS replacement will also eliminate the intermittent no crank.
If necessary, reprogramming the VIN to the JBE generally requires professional service. Hopefully, that will not be necessary.
After clearing all fault codes, do all codes return immediately after turning on the ignition without starting the engine?
I bought the CAS repair service ($300 ebay) from Houston Cars and Gadgets: https://ebay.us/m/AMYekK
They actually read my code (sent them a message with details of my issues) and replied so I decided to use them, hopefully they are good.
regarding the faults, I hope to update in a week to 10 days after I get the module back. Thanks for your help so far.
