Some info here , you get the new thermostat and use the new pigtail. Thats the fix.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ntryman-s.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...mp-sensor.html


https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...out-where.html

 

I just installed a new OEM motor with all new peripherals and an Aeroforce guage so I can monitor coolant temps etc. The new motor stays steady at 224-226 F at highway speeds.

I got a little anxious the other day when in traffic (50F outside) I hit 233 F. I swore I smelled coolant but maybe I was imagining it. I dont know of 233 is normal. It lasted for a few minutes. Too much ambient noise to know if the cooling fan was on or not. I tend to doubt it because the temps would have dropped faster if the fan was on.

I talked to a Mini mechanic at the dealer and he didnt know the normal range since,as he said, none of the cars have guages. He only said that if I was getting cabin heat that the system was properly bled. I know my cooling fan works because I can actuate it with my Autoengenuity software.

Is 233 F acceptable over the period of a few minutes? Im worried about summer conditions.

 

219 is where my JCW N14 sets, in the summer or driving a lot it can get to 229. My guess with the new motor its really sensitive. If you kick on the a/c and its drops quick then 233 might be the normal on the new motor.

 

229 F, that's good to know. I put it on to see if the temps would drop but I may not have put it on HIGH which I think is the trigger for the fan. Im gonna do that but honestly my AC isnt working propely right now. I think the expansion valve is clogged.

 

Ok, that would be a good test to see if it lowers then goes right back up. Sport button will also do this to a certain amount. Like a couple of degrees.

 

Sport button forces the cooling fan all the time? Honestly, I never used this because the trans had 140k miles on it when I got the car so I hesitated to abuse the old trans. Ive got a newer trans in now, so I might give it a try.

 

Does not force the cooling fan I believe I think it changes the electronic valve and opens it up more allowing more coolant to flow and a lower temp. Like it set that way because they know you will be driving more aggressively and compensate.

 

Hello Everyone,

Just posting my findings in regard to my engine temps monitored with a ScanGauge II.

Own a 2011 Mini Cooper S
On the street = 213F to 220F (It fluctuates)
Highway speeds 70 mph = 222F to 225F
Idling after Highway drive = 225F to 233F (Fans kick on the second it hits 233F and immediately drops the temperature to 215F)
Any type of driving with AC on Max = 215F.

I believe I have the newer model thermostat since my thermostat was replaced at the Mini Dealer 2 years ago.

I also freaked out when I saw engines temps over 215F since I also own a R53 which temps are around 183F to 199F.
Hope this info helps.

 

Thanks for the input.

 

That's really helpful yes. Thanks so much. I hit 233 F but the temps didnt drop precipitously which means the fan didnt come on. My engine is new from factory so it must have come with the higher temp thermostat. The Bentley manual claims 226 F as the temp at which the fan comes on but clearly that is not correct under all circumstances. That must be old info. I know the cooling fan works because I can actuate it with my software interface. Perhaps it was taking into account ambiet temps?

Thanks FabianED. Very appreciative.

 

So today I drove around town till the car was good and got and at 226F for fifteen minutes plus and then I let it idle for fifteen minutes and temps went up to 233F and the cooling fan never came on. I turned the AC on high and it quickly dropped to 190F.

I'm not understanding why it isn't cooling itself. Could it be because the temperature outside was 42F.

Even if the thermostat is a higher temp unit, its the engine computer which switches the cooling fan on. I'm not understanding how they communicate. The new engine came with a new coolant temp sensor but that doesn't set a response value it just provides a temp. Its not like the new engine came with new programming for the ECU.

I don't know if I should be concerned or not.

 

Took a 200 plus Mike drive, temps were as usual, 224-226F. Pull into my destination and steam coming from engine bay. I'm freaking out. Pop the hood and I see coolant dripping down the front of the transmission and onto the engine and evaporating. The coolant reservoir / degas bottle was only a tiny bit low. I couldn't see the source because I didn't have anyway to lift the car. From above I couldn't tell.

Could the degas bottle release air and coolant from below?

I bled the system as per the manual when I put in my new engine and I have excellent heat oi the cabin, but I had a transmission put in two weeks ago and I bet they didn't bleed the system after they reconnected the coolant lines to the transmission cooler.

I ran the engine again today and no leaks. I'm confused.

 

I finally was able to catch the car engaging the cooling fan on two occasions while idling after a long highway drive. Both times the fan turned on 233 just ask it turned to 235F and quickly brought temps down to sub 200F range then it crept up to 233 and just as it turned 235 the fan came on again.

Question; what would happen if the cooling lines into the thermostat were accidentally reversed? Lord knows I was very cognizant of their placement, but what would be the result? Wouldn't the car just overheat within minutes? I'm trying to figure why the hell I had this random coolant loss which I cannot repeat. I dont even know its origin because I couldnt get under the car. Is their air in my system even though I get great cabin heat?

 

 

My guess is the engine computer was pouring fuel into combustion chambers because the engine was cold. That constant flow of unburnt fuel thinned the engine oil causing more blow-by and crankcase losses via the PCV system.

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Learned that the hard way today. Just changed the stat and cooling fan and my temps hit 108 and never went past that. **** freaked me out lol

 

Learned what the hard way Singer?

 

How hot these N14s run. I just changed the stat and coolant fan and my temps got up to 108C. Freaked me out a bit but after reading this thread, I feel a lot better.

 

oh cool! Glad it could help. Funny that even the mechanics at Mini had no idea since the car has no temp gauge.

 

Glad to find this topic. Just installed an OBD reader and set up a dashboard on my tablet that includes coolant temp. I was kinda concerned seeing 220f temperatures. Not freaked out though since no "you now have a blown head gasket" light just concerned. I guess I need to adjust the Min/Max setting for that gauge.

 

They run these engines to 225+ almost 230 F.

240 F is the temp at which the high heat warning light comes on, if I recall

 

 

Same here! I was very anxious driving with my OBDII monitor display 105°C / 221°F. A quick google search told me the coolant should never reach above 99° so I was very nervous.

I'm really glad to see this thread and learn that my mini is running at normal operating temperatures.

I have a 2012 Countryman S All4 R60 manual.

Cheers!

 

ya man these cars run super hot. Which is likely why the coolant overflow bottles are always leaking.

 

+1 Yep, they tend to run hot. The coolant tank seem to take a beating, they yellow pretty quick and the neck of the tank got hairlines cracks on mine and the neck can leak. The turbos with age and carbon build up on the inlet side in the engine seems to create a heat issue also. I have cooked the stripes on my hood twice and replaced them. I dont have a turbo blanket, just stock heat cover. I flushed my coolant system a couple times on the MINI already and that should prevent clogging of the cores and other heat issues, I have very little residue in the tank. Some cars i have seen residue in the expansion tank like the coolants never ben changed. I run 50/50 with distilled water, some people like water wetter also.